Exactly where it should be. Picking up the cold dense air with is being pushed ad high pressure over the radiator support. The cold dense air is forced at a higher pressure into the system. That's why Ford put it there. You now pick up hot air from a low pressure area through a tube with nearly the same open area. Then you defeated a system designed to extract exhaust gases from your crankcase using manifold vacuum and stuck some cotton in it. The exhaust gases , being heavy, will be drawn back into the combustion chamber and contaminate the oil decreasing its life and efficiency. When the engine is shut off pollutants will be released through the filter ( designed to trap dirt ) and into the atmosphere. So basically you have decreased engine power, oil efficiency, fuel efficiency ( in metered heavy gases mixing with air fuel mix ) and increased pollutants in the atmosphere. But I'm sure your Butt Dyno is more accurate than years of research. That's why they make all the new cars that way, oh wait, they don't. Sorry for being a jackass I've just seen similar posts many times.

 

I didn't say my "butt dyno" was better than years of research. I saw it on a video on Youtube, heaven forbid that someone other than yourself tries it out. There are other people out there that take K&N filters and just attach them to the tubes themselves. I figured that when I get the funds I could do the same, but I am guessing that is bad too?

And I am not trying to be a smart *** but you say that the filter will stop exhaust gasses from passing when there is pressure in the crank case, but when the engine stops and the pressure ceases, these same pollutants will magically escape the same filter?

And you say that "The exhaust gases , being heavy, will be drawn back into the combustion chamber and contaminate the oil decreasing its life and efficiency." I'm thinking you meant crank case? So the old system didn't do that? Yet mine which does not re-enter the intake tract, does? So the gases will be blown past the rings, then get pushed back into the cylinder by my "cotton" piece because it does not let the blow-by exit the crank case. Please explain...

 

I'm sure you did see it on you tube. The butt dyno point was when people pointed out that this setup wouldn't work you said something to the effect of " I can feel more response, power ". That is common when someone tries an upgrade they think will work, especially if it makes a difference in sound. Our judgement of power is closely related to sound.
About the pvc system I reread my post and realized I made a bit of a mistake. I have been working on a carb system all day and was thinking backwards so I apologize and will clarify. On this system the pvc valve pulls the vacuum wich relieves the pressure on the crankcase. The draft tube ( the side you removed) however catches the pollutants created by combustion and engine heat when the vehicle is off. It seals them inside the system to be sent into the intake and out to be neutralized by the exhaust system. So it should have little effect on the engine, however other than being shiny it doesn't help anything either. The only thing you accomplish is pouting the atmosphere and giving pepboys some money for another.useless product.
As for the comment about the K&N filter, if you use the search engine you can find plenty of arguments about that. I'll simplify my position this way. The cone filter in no way increases the size of the throttle body, that is the limit of the amount air intake area. The throttlebody is almost the same area as the factory snorkle, just a different shape. The only way to get more air into the engine is by increasing its density ( cold outside air is more dense than warm engine air ) or by increasing the pressure ( high pressure flowing over the radiator support , low pressure where the air flow is blocked by the support). Or finally to reduce restriction. A K&N drop in filter flows the same as the cone because it is the same material. K&N s top of the line intake system for this truck uses the factory box and snorkle and replaces the upper half with a box big enough to hold the cone filter. It also replaces the hoses with a less restrictive tube. The point being, with all their research they found no advantage to removing the factory air snorkle because it was well designed. They were moved to over the radiator support to reduce intake of contaminants ( water mud bugs etc. ) No need to be hostile just trying to help everyone get the most out of their trucks.

 

NO the the filter is to keep from drawing dirty air into the engine under light load when the PCV valve is venting blowby into the manifold to be burned and would cause a partial vacume in the crank case if the engine did not have a source of air to replace it. Under heavy load there is little or no vacume and much more blowby so the excess is vented out through the breather along with any oil vapers mixed in with it

 

I've argued allot of this in other posts, so the only thing that I'm going to add is this.........The warm air intake theory has been proven over and over as being effective on certain systems. In my case, I was out for overall mpg for long trips to and from work. Warm air equals better MPG in most cases at a slight loss in power. Cold air is dense and takes more fuel to combust. More fuel = more power. Warm air is less dense and takes less fuel to combust = better fuel economy. Yes we're talking trucks and not Smart Cars, but I'm pretty pleased with my 21mpg Highway and it saves me money. As for the K&N air filters, if you live in a moist climate, Paper Air Filters are short lived. The get moist air and dry when the truck sits with warm under hood temps. Wet paper filters swell decreasing air flow and when they dry, like any paper that has been wet, they become hard and brittle and are virtually worthless. I switched to Foam Air Filters on my ATV's after manufacturers began using cylinder coatings. Paper filters failed in short order and allowed dust into the intake which eventually wound up in the cylinders and destroying the coatings causing the engines to smoke. The Foam and Fabric Filters proved their value in short order. Wash them, dry them, coat them with the specified lubricants and they trap the debris that was getting past the paper filters. Now, most all of these engines come from the factory with foam or fabric filters. A properly maintained foam or fabric filter cleans very well and is tons cheaper over the long run. I was paying $11 for a good paper filter in my F-150's and changing them every 6K miles. That's $55 over a 30K mile period. I'll never have to change my K&N again and only paid $45 for it. The right cone filter such as the K&N RF1012 has a distinct advantage over the drop in K&N filter. It's got twice the surface area of the drop in filter which slows the rate at which the filter becomes clogged. Twice the filter, half the clog rate. The combination of things that I've done to my truck created the 21mpg. Not the K&N by itself. It's not a miracle, but part of an overall process. I can get 12mpg and tons of power compared to where I started with this project. I have much more power than I did a year ago. Clean filters, new ignition system, clean synthetic lubricants, Etc. The key is, less foot, less stop and go = 21mpg. In town around 18mpg. Pissed off or in a mood to slam the gears = 12mpg! Lol. I like my K&N cone because I wanted the engine compartment clean, not over crowded and easy to work on without digging through all of the vacuum lines and crap. Warlock is 100% right in saying that a filter cannot increase the intake volume, unless your talking about a clogged or water damaged filter. Any new filter will create better air flow until it becomes clogged or damaged.

 

You have a good point with the larger dirt trapping surface area of the cone. That's probably the reason K&N uses it in the kit. It would make for a longer service life between cleaning. I've had bad luck with foam filters deteriorating. However this was on a carburator and I believe it was the gasoline fumes destroying the filter. It may work better on a system where there is distance from the intake. I won't even get back into warm air with you again. Lol. In my research it didn't play out, however there is something in your combination that's working for mpg. I know Dr bowtie is getting similar mileage with cold air but until I beat you guys I won't tell you your wrong, just that the physics and empirical data are to the contrary. However that all has nothing to do with the op. If he wants to see our discussion on the warm are topic its on the search engine.

 

I've done the warm air/cold air test on many vehicles... yes cold air does make more power... so the trick is push the peddle less...save gas.

I am using a K&N drop in on the stock box in the stock location...I also get 24mpg highway at 65mph.... I cant complain

 

On the foam filters........My kids Honda Rancher had the original factory foam filter disintegrate. I'd been using the Uni Filter with PJ5 filter oil on my King Quad and no issues. We replaced his with the Uni and PJ5 and no issues since. His is carbed and mine is fuel injected, but so far so good on the 4 year old filters. Just an FYI. I wish Uni made a filter for our trucks (I'll be checking momentarily, Lol) and I'd put one on both my trucks if the price was right.

 

I had an Edlebrock foam filter on my 66 mustang. I loved it and it looked great but it kept falling apart. I switched out to a K&N with a ball milled flamed aluminum housing. It looks sweet and seems to flow fine and I don't have to replace it. On my truck I have the same setup Dr.bowtie has.

 

heh got mine 4 years ago and still havent had to wash it... checked it early this summer and still clean after 60,000 miles LOL