1996 F150 300 L6 2wd auto.

Stick with me on this....

Last oil change, I chose to go with a Fram high-mile oil filter. I had always used Motorcraft filters on my truck, but I have used Fram filters in the past on other vehicles without consequence. At the same time as the oil change, I swapped from the still working 90-amp alternator to the 130-amp (I work at an automotive electrical part$ store, $o this was an ea$y deci$ion). Part of this swap is to go to a longer belt.

When I had finished the oil change and alternator replacement, I started the truck and got a pretty normal sounding squeak and rattle as the oil pump worked to douse the engine. This is something I have come to expect and I know it can be prevented with some kind of magical equipment that I will never buy.

Problem: the squeak and rattle persisted. Every cold start was squeaky.

At first, I was not really listening for it, so I assumed that the squeal was the result of the new serpentine belt being too long. "To hell with it" I say, "let it ride" I say, assuming the belt is just a hair too loose and it is no big deal. Then I noticed the rattle that came with the squeal. Then I noticed it took about a second, maybe less, for the oil gauge to come out of the zero position. So I Googled it. That's when I realized my mistake.

Apparently, Fram's backflow valve design is garbage or possibly absent. (please do your own research - one defective filter is not cause for alarm).

Well, I unwillingly changed my oil after only ~700 miles, just to get rid of the accursed Fram filter. Presto-change-o, no squeal and no rattle, thanks to a Motorcraft filter with a functioning backflow valve. I have read that Fram also omits or uses a low quality bypass valve, which will allow dirty oil to flow in the event the filter is clogged, operating on the concept that dirty oil is better than no oil.

So, if your oil is draining back, consider your filter choice. I was surprised that such a simple mistake could be so damaging. Given that the 300" is bulletproof and could probably use unicorn tears for oil and whale oil for gasoline, I am not all litigious for Fram... but hell, you should at least match stock before you claim your product to be for high mile engines.

This is one encounter with a Fram filter... Please do not write off this brand as I am sure there are many satisfied and faithful Fram customers out there that will chew my *** to gristle. Maybe this was a defective filter. Maybe I did something wrong. If you are using another brand of filter and have no pressure at start, maybe yours is defective, too.

Which oil filters do you prefer? Why? And what is your experience with Fram? What about Wix?

 

For the 4 years I had my ol' 92 with the 300 straight-6 I used Motocraft oil filters for every oil change and NEVER had a problem with the oil. I would recommend Motocraft as a generally good oil filter for anyone, but if you were willing to spend the extra money, there is always K&N. They make one of the best air filters on the market (if not the best period) and im sure their pride in manufacturing carries over to their oil and fuel filters. Mobil 1 makes an oil filter too and im sure you know plenty about Mobil 1.

 

most people will stick with motorcraft, k&n, or mobil 1. I am satisfied with motorcraft, as they are a quality filter and are cheap at walmart for only 3 dollars. Fram = crap!

 

Hey! Fram still makes good stuff, just look at their air filters! I mean yeah theyre paper, they restrict air flow, and you have to change them often because theyre disposable, and... wait a minute...

 

I use K&N Oil filters on everything I own. I used to use Motorcraft filters and never had an issue. I too, have used Fram filters and have never had an issue but, I'm older and wiser now and have realized you get what you pay for. I'll spring for a $10 oil filter any day of the week, knowing it will "clean" the oil far better and it's safety devices will work as expected.

I also use and strongly recommend for high milage engines, Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I use the regular version in my 150,000 + mile F150 and I use the Synthetic version in my differential and my 2009 Escape. Want to eliminate dry starts, regardless of your filters anit-drain back valve? Use Lucas.

 

I use Fram oil filters and Quaker State oil, haven't had a problem yet.

 

I just had the same problem with a motorcraft filter, yes i said motorcraft. I know you guys swear by them, maybe i had a faulty one. either way I switched to a wix and so far no rattling noise. No mor MC for me.

 

You won't see me put that in my oil, The stuff separates from oil in the prescience of any moisture. And you do get moisture in the engine from time to time.

You have been lucky with the filters

I have had a bad ADBV valve in almost every brand of filter I have used over the years...It happens, I currently have one in the Royal Purple filter I have on my truck....Guess what though,I emailed RP on it and they are gonna send me a new filter as long as i send them the old one.

 

i put fram high mile filter on and RP full synthetic oil. no problems

 

The problem with Fram is that they use low quality in everything. I work on cars and I cannot tell you how many faulty fram filters I see. Some guy did a report over all oil filters, turns out fram stops filtering anywhere from 500-1500 miles. I will find the report. I used it for a college report I had to do.