I had been stockpiling parts to put on before winter, the only things I didn't get to were the thermostat and radius arm bushings. I got moog 824 springs in, monroe sensa track coil over shocks, bad spindle swapped out (already had new ball joints put in it), new ball joints on the other side, inner/outer wheel bearings on both sides. Took it for a drive and it pulled all over the place, was worried I would have to get an alignment but when I realized I didn't put the new dust cap on the passenger side I jacked the truck up and the wheel was wobbly. Turns out the seals that I couldn't get out were warped so I just got a new rotor, the new rotor assembly had both seals in it and they don't seem to be removable either. Put air controlled load assist shocks on the back the other day. I took it for a drive and am loving everything about this. No leaning around corners, no real pull either way, it could still do with an alignment but I know I've got a few things to do yet before hand (play in steering column being #1) just not to worried about it until it's time to get new tires. Here's some pics of the before and after, doesn't really look like much of a difference in the pics but went from 32.5" in front to almost 35" with the back at just under 35.5" center of wheel well. If I let all of the air out it of the rear shocks it actually sits about 1/4" lower than the front.

Before

After


My driveway is slanted back to the alley but anywhere else it looks level, and that's really what it's all about.



A picture of my stupidity, thought I had enough room to take the nut off with the ratchet and got it wedged between top of lower ball joint and the bottom of the upper spindle/ball joint (and no the spindle didn't just drop and pinch it, it was stuck before I freed the BJ's, thought if it dropped I could get it out). Had to go out and buy a cutting wheel for my drill and cut the lower ball joint to get it free. That took a while, I think I stared at it for 45 minutes trying to figure out how I did it.

 

You mean you couldn't get the bearing races out ?
I use a long screwdriver and a hammer from the other side and work side to side.
I keep an old set of bearings around to set the new ones in with.
But yes it's much easier when the new rotors come with new races installed.
And the grease seal on the back of the rotor ? a curved claw hammer works like a dream. just hook it under from the center and pop it out

 

I was actually trying to type seat, but seat cup race. Yes, they wouldn't come out, I even stopped by and had one of my friends (mechanic at a local shop) try to get them out for me and no one there could. Said he could cut it out but would have to charge me, since I already had the other rotor on I said no. Was told that with the cups/seats pre pressed in there that if they warp before removing them that they tend to get bound in there. I was calling it a race at the shop and they said these are race-less bearings or cone in cup. Semantics! I hate it, I can't call anything by the correct name but people know what I'm talking about, I try to pass it on but in the back of my head I'm still thinking that my words worked.

 

looks good

 

Ordering some Moog K80109 bushings, they offer 4* of movement (-4 to +4). Eyeballed the current ones to the best I could and it drives pretty good. Going to get these and stick them in at true zero, get an alignment printout and dial them in. I noticed, for some reason, that I have two completely different C/C bushings. Driver's side the hole is almost centered and offers very little camber and no caster while the passenger side you can watch the rotor tilt forward/back and the top of it go in/out.

The Moogs are only $22 ea. on rockauto, going to search for the best price+shipping then get them ordered.

A little more for them on amazon but with free shipping it comes to 47 vs ra's 49.