David Lyons

My 87 150 with 5.0L, XLT Lariat... hates to start when cold in the morning. Sometimes will crank and crank like it wants to start...will have to keep foot on the pedal to rev it up to keep it running. Sometimes I can drive it and be ok, other days, it will stall once put into gear.
Lately the power steering is non-existent in the morning, but works fine later in the day. Got Lucas in it, seems to drip below the gearbox. Still isn't always working in the mornings...
Temp gauge on the dash does not work at all. Possibly part of why it doesn't run well when cold? Have a coolant temp sensor to put in, if I can find where it goes?

So far I've spent $2000 on a new fuel selector valve, new front tank, new sending unit, new pigtail, new starter, new solenoid/relay. Other new parts are new MC and booster.
Cant wait to put new bulbs in the dash, some burned out... no turn signals or other lights work below the cluster (they used to until recently) and a few in the cluster are out.

Sorry this is a lot of info! Any answers to the above are greatly appreciated!

raski

Do the maintenance stuff. Check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and fuel pressure for your starting problem.

flush your power steering system of the Lucas stuff. With a leaking steering gearbox and the steering issues, you may want to look at a reman gearbox. I never had much luck with replacing seals on those.
Temp. sensor has single wire on it and is hidden on right side of block.
Seems awfully high ($2k) for what was done and don't know why you are changing both the MC and booster? Good luck with your projects.

David Lyons

Replacement of the MC didn't solve the problem with the pedal going to the floorboard. A line had been replaced and new cylinders in rear...first shop said it was the booster. Second shop argued with me it could not be the booster. He tried everything and finally installed a new booster. Problem solved!
A booster CAN cause a soft pedal...
So much has been done, forgot to mention that the fuel filter was just changed.
once the truck is warmed up, it runs great.
While it's still cold, the idle surges/fluctuates at a red light.

Steve83

Stop buying & replacing random parts. No, the temperature gauge has nothing to do with how the engine runs. Before spending any more money or time on peripheral parts, find out why it runs poorly, and what it's going to take to fix it. If you can't diagnose it, find someone who can for a reasonable price (like <$120), and make him agree that if his "fix" doesn't work, you pay nothing and he doesn't get to remove any new parts.

If you want to DIY (and you pretty much have to if you plan to drive this truck because it's not worth what it'll cost to pay someone to maintain it), you should invest in a Haynes manual, and READ IT. This caption explains how to get the best edition for your truck's year:


(phone app link)

Almost any digital multimeter will do.


(phone app link)

Disturbing as LITTLE as possible, TEST each sensor & actuator:


(phone app link)

These are some known problems to look for:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

raski

or better yet, search e bay for the ford service manuals. It is the best information out there. I saw a cd containing all five volumes for under forty dollars. Paper volumes are plentiful too.I use the ford manuals and they have paid for themselves many times over.

David Lyons

haha... I know all about Haynes, and I already bought one!
Everything that was replaced was necessary because it was at the shop being worked on by a guy who owns a truck just like mine. The gas tank had rusted through and the other parts were bad from age.
But thanks, we are thinking on the same page.

David Lyons

YES! I found rockauto (I think)carries the Shop manual on CD, which I know from working at dealers, is the Bible for all techs... Besides the FordStar training by satellite

My biggest hurdle is not having extensive tools or equipment for bigger tasks.