I hope that you guys haven't heard this too many times but. I have an 96 F-150 with 68,000 miles on it, the problem im having is that the temp. gauge on my dash won't read anything but cold its all the way to the left and from time to time it will bounce (ive given it a lil whack and it went back to normal) i thought maybe a wire was shorting touching somthing and shorting out. but now the engine check ligh has come on. So im hoping you guys have some info on that problem for me.

the second thing is that the engine coolant isn't green anymore its very light brown color. ive never flushed the coolant since ive had it and i don't really know if its ever been done. so any help would be greatly appreciated, and by the way i have the inline 6 engine

 

I just got done messing with my temp senders (there are 2). Sounds like the one that's up against the thermostat - the easy one - is shorting out a wire. Do you have a wiring diagram or a Chilton's manual? Start there.

Also sounds like it's time for a coolant flush.

 

ok thanks for the info but also the wire shorting would that be a cause for the check engine light. and another question to i need to bleed the coolant to get the air bubbles out because in the manuel is says to just let the coolant sit so the bubbles rise out. as you can tell ive never done this also where would i find those two books

 

Yeah, if you pull the plastic clip that connects the two wires to the sensor off, you should see the CEL. I'm pretty sure it sets mine off when I do that. There are a ton of things that can cause that light to come on, but I'm assuming it's tied to the gauge problem you're having. Since you're seeing it, you should pull the engine codes to be sure. If you've never done it, check this post out for a how-to: https://www.f150forum.com/f3/1995-f-150-wont-start-8730/

The easiest way to get bubbles out of your cooling system is to get a radiator cap with a release lever. I just recently discovered how cool these are. Get the truck up to temp, flip the lever, watch the bubble come through the coolant in the reservoir. Nobody gets burned, nothing spills.

The easiest place to get the manuals is an auto parts store.

 

The gauge for the water temp is a one wire sensor the 2 wire sensor is
for the EEC.

Pull the codes so we can see what shes reporting.

 

Actually, seans post for checking the codes is;

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/

As I just mentioned to grantpoj1;

In the picture that sean has taken, you dont need the white wire at all if you plan on using the check engine light flashes. Keep in mind that the codes will repeat themselves twice. May be two digit codes but mine flash three digit codes. 1-1-1 means things are checking out fine; this will also repeat itself but the codes to really watch for follows these.

I actually dont restart my truck with the jumper wire connected for the test. I just turn my key to the run position and it displays.

IMPORTANT:
If you disconnect the jumper wire before the test completes, it will erase all the codes in memory and you will have to redrive your truck so the computer can relearn them, so let it run its full course first.

 

Well i decided to take the truck up to our mechanic friend that worked on my dads vette and had him run the computer. it turns out that im going to need a new cadalitic converter. so the Fin great. thanks for all the advice and if any body has any information on where and about how much i can get a cad converter for email me at StiveC2007@yahoo.com and put the topic F150-Cad Converter. thanks again for all the advice