Engine break-in tips...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Engine break-in tips...
I have a freshly rebuilt 5.0 liter on the engine stand ready to go into my 1989 F 150. When I say rebuilt, I mean EVERYTHING is new. I wish that I could brag on the fact that I did it myself, but I actually had it done by a good friend who owns a local shop. Once I have that thing in and ready, what are some good tips as far as precautions for initially starting it up, and breaking it in? My friend gave me some suggestions, but I'd like to hear some other opinions.
5 Year Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 517
Likes: 93
If your friend built it, he knows the ring types, the machine work done and the composition and so on and should provide break in and initial start specs...especially if he is the warranty provider.
in the absence of those, I use an additive or break in lube/assembly lube as well as a really good motor oil. I use a manual oil pump turning shaft in a hand drill. Prime things manually and make sure you know where your leaks are and that the system will hold oil pressure, I manually turn things over with a socket on the crank snout and so on, as the oil pressure is up. If that all succeeds, then proceed to start the engine with all components installed and timing close and so on. I use a slow break in, ie 700-1000 rpm until I get heat in the engine, make sure water is moving, oil pressure is nominal and so on. As soon as heat in the engine, I shut it down, check my fluids to make sure they are pure (no water in the oil, fuel in the oil, oil in the water and so on). Manually turn things over while the engine loses heat.
Once confident, then proceed to break in, as many believe that rings/bearings do their thing in the first minute of engine idling. By break in, just the normal starts and stops of the installation, moving the vehicle to and fro and so on, but not idling with no load any more than you need to. No wide open throttle bursts and no sustained, steady RPMS....variation in RPMs is good.
Change the break in oil, checking it for sediments, and the filter and refill with your normal oil of choice. 500 miles of easy variation, loads and so on. Change oil again and good go.
All this is predicated on non-specific ring and bearing requirements...ie if you have ring type XXX go with what that maker specifies for break in and additives, if any.
good luck.
in the absence of those, I use an additive or break in lube/assembly lube as well as a really good motor oil. I use a manual oil pump turning shaft in a hand drill. Prime things manually and make sure you know where your leaks are and that the system will hold oil pressure, I manually turn things over with a socket on the crank snout and so on, as the oil pressure is up. If that all succeeds, then proceed to start the engine with all components installed and timing close and so on. I use a slow break in, ie 700-1000 rpm until I get heat in the engine, make sure water is moving, oil pressure is nominal and so on. As soon as heat in the engine, I shut it down, check my fluids to make sure they are pure (no water in the oil, fuel in the oil, oil in the water and so on). Manually turn things over while the engine loses heat.
Once confident, then proceed to break in, as many believe that rings/bearings do their thing in the first minute of engine idling. By break in, just the normal starts and stops of the installation, moving the vehicle to and fro and so on, but not idling with no load any more than you need to. No wide open throttle bursts and no sustained, steady RPMS....variation in RPMs is good.
Change the break in oil, checking it for sediments, and the filter and refill with your normal oil of choice. 500 miles of easy variation, loads and so on. Change oil again and good go.
All this is predicated on non-specific ring and bearing requirements...ie if you have ring type XXX go with what that maker specifies for break in and additives, if any.
good luck.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 679
Likes: 133
If your friend built it, he knows the ring types, the machine work done and the composition and so on and should provide break in and initial start specs...especially if he is the warranty provider.
in the absence of those, I use an additive or break in lube/assembly lube as well as a really good motor oil. I use a manual oil pump turning shaft in a hand drill. Prime things manually and make sure you know where your leaks are and that the system will hold oil pressure, I manually turn things over with a socket on the crank snout and so on, as the oil pressure is up. If that all succeeds, then proceed to start the engine with all components installed and timing close and so on. I use a slow break in, ie 700-1000 rpm until I get heat in the engine, make sure water is moving, oil pressure is nominal and so on. As soon as heat in the engine, I shut it down, check my fluids to make sure they are pure (no water in the oil, fuel in the oil, oil in the water and so on). Manually turn things over while the engine loses heat.
Once confident, then proceed to break in, as many believe that rings/bearings do their thing in the first minute of engine idling. By break in, just the normal starts and stops of the installation, moving the vehicle to and fro and so on, but not idling with no load any more than you need to. No wide open throttle bursts and no sustained, steady RPMS....variation in RPMs is good.
Change the break in oil, checking it for sediments, and the filter and refill with your normal oil of choice. 500 miles of easy variation, loads and so on. Change oil again and good go.
All this is predicated on non-specific ring and bearing requirements...ie if you have ring type XXX go with what that maker specifies for break in and additives, if any.
good luck.
in the absence of those, I use an additive or break in lube/assembly lube as well as a really good motor oil. I use a manual oil pump turning shaft in a hand drill. Prime things manually and make sure you know where your leaks are and that the system will hold oil pressure, I manually turn things over with a socket on the crank snout and so on, as the oil pressure is up. If that all succeeds, then proceed to start the engine with all components installed and timing close and so on. I use a slow break in, ie 700-1000 rpm until I get heat in the engine, make sure water is moving, oil pressure is nominal and so on. As soon as heat in the engine, I shut it down, check my fluids to make sure they are pure (no water in the oil, fuel in the oil, oil in the water and so on). Manually turn things over while the engine loses heat.
Once confident, then proceed to break in, as many believe that rings/bearings do their thing in the first minute of engine idling. By break in, just the normal starts and stops of the installation, moving the vehicle to and fro and so on, but not idling with no load any more than you need to. No wide open throttle bursts and no sustained, steady RPMS....variation in RPMs is good.
Change the break in oil, checking it for sediments, and the filter and refill with your normal oil of choice. 500 miles of easy variation, loads and so on. Change oil again and good go.
All this is predicated on non-specific ring and bearing requirements...ie if you have ring type XXX go with what that maker specifies for break in and additives, if any.
good luck.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks, great info! I already have the oil type and additives that my friend recommended, but he didn't suggest the manual turnover that you recommended. Since this truck has the factory EFI, I'm pretty much at the mercy of the ECU when it comes to RPM from the cold start. Any suggestions there?
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 124
Likes: 15
From: SK, Canada
The just of it is making sure you don't wipe out your camshaft. Older vehicles had a different valve train set up and special additives in the oil for that. New engines are typically broken in at the factory to make sure rings are seated and to control quality, the rest of the drivetrain still needs to be bedded in. Ignore sales people, owner's manuals typically recommend against redlining it before x amount of miles.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp...reak-in-guide/
Like kd3pc said, ask your friend for all the part specs, choose the appropriate fluids, and prelube.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp...reak-in-guide/
Like kd3pc said, ask your friend for all the part specs, choose the appropriate fluids, and prelube.
