EGR Vaccum line HELP!
03-07-2011, 09:15 AM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
Ok so here's the update with a new question. I went to the junkyard and got a solenoid, a vac can, and the needed lines and installed. The truck idles the same as it did, but at normal cruising speeds especially in 2nd and 3rd gear I get a weird shutter, almost like a missing, from the engine. If I accelerate out of it, and give it full throttle, it picks up like there's no problem and actually seems to handle higher rpms better than before. I'm not sure if now the truck is running too rich maybe? Or do I need to disconnect the battery and let the computer reprogram the egr?
As a side note, if it makes a difference, which I doubt it would; I don't have the smog pump hooked up, nor any of its solenoids and vacuum lines. (but all vacuum lines are plugged off) and no cats. I do not have a check engine light on, but I had a code for egr before I did the work. I have not checked codes since I installed everything yesterday, but the light is still off. Also the o2 sensor is new, I replaced it last year.
Ok so here's the update with a new question. I went to the junkyard and got a solenoid, a vac can, and the needed lines and installed. The truck idles the same as it did, but at normal cruising speeds especially in 2nd and 3rd gear I get a weird shutter, almost like a missing, from the engine. If I accelerate out of it, and give it full throttle, it picks up like there's no problem and actually seems to handle higher rpms better than before. I'm not sure if now the truck is running too rich maybe? Or do I need to disconnect the battery and let the computer reprogram the egr?
As a side note, if it makes a difference, which I doubt it would; I don't have the smog pump hooked up, nor any of its solenoids and vacuum lines. (but all vacuum lines are plugged off) and no cats. I do not have a check engine light on, but I had a code for egr before I did the work. I have not checked codes since I installed everything yesterday, but the light is still off. Also the o2 sensor is new, I replaced it last year.
03-07-2011, 09:39 AM
#25
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Well you sure want to clear your Kept adaptive memory, put some miles on it, then run codes again. Starting of course w/ KOEO & Cont. Memory.
The problem is, it's one thing to have these engines running correctly w/ everything there & functional. These components functions overlap each other w/ the ECU expecting things to be there, doing their thing.
Kinda like your body. Ok, out w/ your tonsils, appendex gone... You really only need one kidney & might as well grab a lung while we're there. Speen? why not!
Sooner or later your body call's bull****.
An exaggeration, no doubt, but it's hard to say what the effective results of eliminating components are. Unless you maybe you canvas other members w/ questions like "has anybody eliminated "this" & "this", but kept "that"?
The problem is, it's one thing to have these engines running correctly w/ everything there & functional. These components functions overlap each other w/ the ECU expecting things to be there, doing their thing.
Kinda like your body. Ok, out w/ your tonsils, appendex gone... You really only need one kidney & might as well grab a lung while we're there. Speen? why not!
Sooner or later your body call's bull****.
An exaggeration, no doubt, but it's hard to say what the effective results of eliminating components are. Unless you maybe you canvas other members w/ questions like "has anybody eliminated "this" & "this", but kept "that"?
Last edited by ymeski56; 03-07-2011 at 09:45 AM.
03-07-2011, 10:07 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yea it was running fine before I put the egr back on. But I want to reinstall it in hopes I can gain a little fuel economy. I'll reset and run codes this afternoon
03-10-2011, 12:53 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Its still giving me problems. I reset the gap on the plugs, now at .047, reset the memory, got rid of the egr codes, but still a surging and miss around 2k rpm's at steady throttle in all gears. My only other thought is that maybe the egr itself isnt opening and closing properly. When does it open and close normally? Should it be open or closed at steady throttle 2k rpms? And when should it be under vacuum?
03-10-2011, 01:02 PM
#28
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Its still giving me problems. I reset the gap on the plugs, now at .047, reset the memory, got rid of the egr codes, but still a surging and miss around 2k rpm's at steady throttle in all gears. My only other thought is that maybe the egr itself isnt opening and closing properly. When does it open and close normally? Should it be open or closed at steady throttle 2k rpms? And when should it be under vacuum?
& http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43
Is your "To EGR" & "From Vac source" connected correctly?
Last edited by ymeski56; 03-10-2011 at 01:07 PM.
03-10-2011, 01:57 PM
#29
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Warm up engine to norn op temp.
Disconnect the vacuum line going to the top of the EGR valve.
There should be no vacuum from the line at this time (may feel a slight papipataion/ but no actual vacuum). If there is then check for proper EVR (EGR vacuum regulator) operation and vacuum line routing. If ok, Continue testing.
Hook up a hand vacuum pump to the EGR valve and slowly apply a vacuum. If the EGR valve is functioning then the engine should begin to run poorly and stumble. If you apply full vacuum and notice no RPM change or can’t pull a vacuum at all, then:
Check for a faulty diaphragm in the valve
Restriction of the EGR tube.
Restriction of the exhaust or intake manifold EGR portways. (I've removed my EGR to find them totally blocked at the air intake manifold)
---------
It is very common for EGR passages in the intake manifolds become plugged with carbon and prevent EGR flow.
Something that also is commonly overlooked is weather the EGR tube is secure on the opposite end &/or if a leak has developed along the tube itself.
Disconnect the vacuum line going to the top of the EGR valve.
There should be no vacuum from the line at this time (may feel a slight papipataion/ but no actual vacuum). If there is then check for proper EVR (EGR vacuum regulator) operation and vacuum line routing. If ok, Continue testing.
Hook up a hand vacuum pump to the EGR valve and slowly apply a vacuum. If the EGR valve is functioning then the engine should begin to run poorly and stumble. If you apply full vacuum and notice no RPM change or can’t pull a vacuum at all, then:
Check for a faulty diaphragm in the valve
Restriction of the EGR tube.
Restriction of the exhaust or intake manifold EGR portways. (I've removed my EGR to find them totally blocked at the air intake manifold)
---------
It is very common for EGR passages in the intake manifolds become plugged with carbon and prevent EGR flow.
Something that also is commonly overlooked is weather the EGR tube is secure on the opposite end &/or if a leak has developed along the tube itself.
Last edited by ymeski56; 03-11-2011 at 11:39 AM.
03-11-2011, 11:26 AM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll borrow a hand pump from work and check the egr this weekend sometime. That's a good testing procedure, thanks! For now, I put the blockoff plate back on to help it ride better. But even with the blockoff plate on it still has a little stumble running at partial throttle around 2k rpm but nothing at all like it was. I'm thinking it may be my IAC. It already has a hard time finding idle when first starting and takes a block or two of driving to even out. I'm going to replace it as soon as I get a chance. I'll post back results with the hand pump