distibutor timing
I have a 96 f150 xl with a 4.9. During tune up broke the distributor cap hold down screws. I destroyed the distributor trying to remove the screws. Bought a new distributor, noted the location of rotor and removed, replaced the distributor. I also replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. I then timed it at 10 btdc. It would start and run, but under load, it would miss, and run rough. I kept trying to adjust the timing, and the more I adjusted, the worse it got. I thought I was a tooth or two off in the setup, so pulled the distributor, and rotated the distributor. Put it all back, now will not run or start. Pulled #1 plug, rotated to tdc on compression stroke, rotated distributor pointing at #1 cylinder, now still no start, and cranking hard. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I also bypassed the air pump about the same time, as the pump was whining bad, and was starting to wear the belt. Any ideas??
When you check your timing, you are supposed to pull the spout. It's a little gray fuse looking thing near the ICM if I am not mistaken. Also, I found the timing marks to be a little confusing. There are marks on the timing cover on driver's side, a pointer on block on passenger side, there is lines and degrees on the balancer, and there is this gray ring with ***** attached to the balancer. I found the gray ***** with the timing marks on the driver side works best per say. I still was not happy with the timing so I played it by ear. It ended up at 16 degrees according to a live scan on an Acton reader. That is where I like it.
For your truck not starting, check to see if you have fire. When I checked my timing, I accidentally pulled a wire loose from the coil. I thought "great, what did I do now". Put I found it shortly after.
For your truck not starting, check to see if you have fire. When I checked my timing, I accidentally pulled a wire loose from the coil. I thought "great, what did I do now". Put I found it shortly after.
Hmm I have had the same problem when I changed my timing gears dont know how I did it but somehow had my rotation out 180 degrees. A lot of wrenches and words flew that day but then thought what the heck ill try the next compression stroke and bang there it was fired right up and a big relief.
Start with the basics, Do you have the proper dist? Correct firing order and cap position? (#1 being first at about noon position when looking at cap from front of truck)
Go back and double check the little things first, everything that you removed, replaced, or adjusted needs a second look. Is there anything else that you did to it since it was last running?
Go back and double check the little things first, everything that you removed, replaced, or adjusted needs a second look. Is there anything else that you did to it since it was last running?
Make sure you're looking at the right mark on the vibration damper. For instance on the 302 there is a big mark, like a notch that you might assume at first glance is a timing mark. Once you get a cleaner and a rag you find all the proper marks with the degrees somewhere else.
So then you rotate the motor in the proper direction until you feel pressure build in #1 and continue up to 10 degrees BTDC.
Then the rotor should be pointing at #1 on the cap and 1 of the little bumps on the distributor shaft should just be at the pickup inside the dist. because when it lines up it will ground and make the coil fire.
That's the going back to basics on the distributor.
If that's all good, then start looking around at everything else paying particular attention to all the wires and connectors you've been messing with.
If you don't find anything amiss by then you'll have to do the whole routine - check for spark, fuel pressure, etc etc.
I can't see the air pump causing the problem but - did that leave anything open or unplugged ? Also, all the new parts you put on, unfortunately new doesn't always mean "known to be working" so the issue could also lie there.
That doesn't solve your problem but at least you've got some things to look at tomorrow.
So then you rotate the motor in the proper direction until you feel pressure build in #1 and continue up to 10 degrees BTDC.
Then the rotor should be pointing at #1 on the cap and 1 of the little bumps on the distributor shaft should just be at the pickup inside the dist. because when it lines up it will ground and make the coil fire.
That's the going back to basics on the distributor.
If that's all good, then start looking around at everything else paying particular attention to all the wires and connectors you've been messing with.
If you don't find anything amiss by then you'll have to do the whole routine - check for spark, fuel pressure, etc etc.
I can't see the air pump causing the problem but - did that leave anything open or unplugged ? Also, all the new parts you put on, unfortunately new doesn't always mean "known to be working" so the issue could also lie there.
That doesn't solve your problem but at least you've got some things to look at tomorrow.
Update; So I had a friend come over that works at a local Ford garage. He had it running in about 10 minutes, and tuned in a total of about 30 minutes. Turns out I had the distributor about ten teeth off he said. Once he had the distributor in correctly, it was just a matter of playing with the distributor location to get it to run. He used the pointer on the passenger side, and the 10btdc mark on the harmonic balancer to time it with his light. Runs great, I am so stupid.





