PLEASE HELP, this has been the biggest headache I’ve ever seen.

I have an 89 f-150 with a 5.8l engine which was running absolutely great a year ago. I went to deleted the smog system then went to changeout fuel injectors (as a maintenance item) and now the truck will not start at all unless I spray ether in the throttle body then it will fire and then shut right off. Fuel pressure is at 40 pound KOEO. Replaced fuel pressure regulator as well.

I don’t know what to do anymore and do not want to buy anymore parts until I figure out what the deal is.

 

It was running great, so you ripped off parts that Ford put on... Did you really think Ford put unnecessary parts on the engine? "Hey, this would be fun to bolt on here - let's throw some extra stuff under the hood!" Put everything back the way it was when it was "running great" and it probably will again.

Have you read the maintenance schedule?

(click this text)


If you look closely, you'll notice that the fuel injectors are NOT on it. Why? Because they're NOT maintenance items. Neither is the FPR. Put the originals back on, and it might run again.

You should NEVER replace parts unless they're due on the maintenance schedule, or they fail published tests. You can BUY whatever you want - parts for these trucks are getting scarce as there are fewer & fewer of them still on the road, so if you plan to keep yours a long time, it makes sense to collect parts to keep it running. But spend wisely, on parts that it's likely to need. And don't remove any working parts to install new parts which probably don't work as well, and won't last as long. Wait until it's necessary.

 

well that would be great however I threw away the smog stuff, and the plugs that are in it are OEM. Pretty sure it didn’t hurt to replace them beings that they’ve never been replaced and the truck sat from 2012 to now….. I asked for help not your opinion.

 

Yeah, don't worry about salty people... You are asking for help, so welcome aboard.

you did an EGR delete, then the issues happened?

What is the smog stuff you deleted?

 

The smog pump, the egr valve in the front, plugged those holes off on the back of the heads, and got rid of that stuff back there and blocked off the port on the front of the intake plenum. Got rid of the coffee can stuff. I also deleted the solenoids that the egr and smog stuff hooks up to beside the ignition coil, and I put resistors in the plugs so codes wouldn’t show up. I flashed the codes and I got 31, 83, and 87.

 

this might not be so hard

coffee can is your vacuum reservoir, so you’re going to want to put that or another one back in and run vacuum lines to the manifold port and associated places. Get some silicon hoses. Under your hood is a diagram showing you where to go and a bunch of folks on YouTube walk you through how to run the silicone hoses and what sizes. Shouldn’t take more than a couple hours. I did all mine in three hours.

 

unless your resistor values are similar in response to the sensors you replaced, they may be adding to the no start. Your initial symptom (fires on ether) is indicative of a fuel delivery issue - perhaps the "computer" is telling the fuel system to NOT send fuel - based on an arbitrary resistor value elsewhere?

methinks you removed too much stuff, mindlessly.

ie 87 (O) Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

other codes are here:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/list-a...1-codes-19147/

Fuel pressure gauge would prove/disprove this very quickly. Still won't "fix" the computer to accept this as a new normal. Just not enough brights built into it, like a "tune" of today.

 

Problem is you turn the key on and the fuel pumps are constantly running, so it’s like it’s loading it up full of fuel, and it’s supplying about 40 psi fuel pressure. I also noticed that once you turn the key off should the pressure gradually go down at some point? The pressure stays pegged at 40 psi with the key off. Never had this issue before

 

the pumps are deigned to come on when the key does and to keep pressure on the system. The rail will hold some fuel, but there has to be enough pressure for the system to deliver full flow at wide open throttle. In theory you don't want the fuel pressure to go back down below the set point, there are check valves in place to keep things correct. Steady 40 PSI is a good thing.

Now one would check fuel flow, gallons per minute. That involves actually measuring how much fuel will exit the system, at a given pressure, per unit time. Don't just watch a you-tube and say you got it. Fuel and vapor are to be mucked about with, it could go sideways quickly. If you decide to do this, get some one with experience and a fire extinguisher and a phone at least. A tablespoon of gasoline, vaporized and ignited, is like dynamite.

 

Also I’m not sure about this but while testing the throttle position sensor with KOEO I noticed it’s getting 10 volts to the sensor but no voltage coming out….. is it supposed to have voltage coming out?