Here is a little reading material here you can find out on how to test things before replacing. And more in depth details on how things work. I find this very useful.
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/

 

Nice Link !
I will bookmark it and print later for solid copy .
I went and got a Fuel Pressure Test Kit and with further homework have learned quite a bit about the system which makes for much better diagnosis once I have the system done pat
Anyway , I have learned that it is probably my frame rail mounted pump (high pressure) pump , it has a check valve that is designed to maintain pressure between the pump and FPR , I hooked up the Fuel Pressure Gauge and found that my fuel pressure is bleeding off at a tremendous fast rate (about one second ) , now it is possible it is the FPR regulator seeing that it works in tandem with fuel rail pressure regarding return/recirculation , seeing that the FPR is only $19 and is 23 years old , I will go ahead and replace , re-check fuel pressure to see if possibly FPR is shot and draining back in return line , though I believe the FPR is fine , it is still 23 years old and due for a change , I believe in the end it will be the checkvalve in the frame rail mounted pump , they probably used a cheap aftermarket pump coupled with there had not been gas in the rear tank for some time and no telling how many times rear tank was selected and high pressure pump was run dry .
Supposed to rain tomorrow but if there is a break in the rain I will jump out there and replace the FPR and re-check fuel pressures , I believe the FPR is ok because I can disconnect vacuum and see pressure go from 34 psi to 46 psi , so obviously diaphragm is still working but it is possible it may not be closing on 0 vacuum , we will see , when you turn key on pressure will just spike and immediately drop ( 1 sec or less at 0psi ) , so I can but hope it is FPR for the cheap fix , otherwise I will replace the Frame Rail mounted high pressure pump .

 

I'm leaning more towards the check valve. Most of the time when the FPR goes bad there will be gas in the in the vacum hookup on the regulator.

 

I Agree but seeing that most of the fuel system has been revamped I am going to put a fresh FPR on there as well , I feel like you though , that I will be replacing the High Pressure Pump .
I will buy a nice pump if I have to replace it so I will not have to go thru this again in 18 months.
I have a '95 Jimmy that I put a Carter pump into and it lasted 14 months , I replaced it with the recommended Bosch Pump ( which is actually the OEM pump ) and it has been going strong for 6 years now , I am thinking they used the cheapest aftermarket pump they could find , that is the sad part about today , it is all about money anymore , that is making it .
After much research again I think I am going to put a Bosch in the truck as well , there is also a Walbro and Airtex for it as well that may be upgrades but I am unfamiliar with the manufacturers , I am very familiar with Bosch and they in my opinion are well made and last a long time , so that is who I will probably go with unless you would recommend the Airtex over the Bosch then I might be willing to try that , I can get either the Airtex or the Bosch local , the Walbro I would have to order and would be a bit pricier as you have to order the fitting kit and the sound blanket separately so the Walbro would be coming in around $150 + with shipping .

 

Haven't heard many good things on the Airtex fuel pumps. Walbro has been in business for years don't know how goof their pumps are but they always made a good carburetor. Bosch has good stuff. Spectra makes good pumps as well.

 

I did not see any Spectra Pumps Listed , but will check into it and see if any local is available.

 

They may not make the rail pump I do know they make the in tank pumps.

 

Ok , this is the final report

Changed the FPR and it was bad , it was not closing with zero vacuum , so that helped the situation as the pressure bled off very slow and would maintain about 10 psi for about 30 minutes , better but even still the motor would be hard re-starting , so went and got the Bosch pump ( Frame Rail High Pressure ) , Advance Auto had a special 20% off for online orders that you could still go and pick up at store , so got the Bosch for under $83 which before tax regular price was $108 , came home and installed , excellent fit , exact , left power off new pump and toggled tank pump with ignition key until I got fuel up to it by which I verified by watching fuel pressure gauge until it came up just a hair so I knew the lines at least had some fuel in them before I fired the new high pressure pump , re-connected positive wire on new pump and turned on ignition and WA LA , I have 35 psi idle pressure on the fuel rail and when you cut ignition on it will spike and hold steady about 40 psi , over time will slowly drop to around 35 and then no loss from that point on ( that is what the FPR would not have been doing if I had not replaced it ) .
So problem solved , runs much better also seeing I have about 34 psi avg now instead of 30-31 , I am thinking once I have nothing else to do I may get a adj. FPR and turn up my idle fuel rail pressure just a bit , maybe to 38 psi , I think it would help it to be honest .
All in all Thankful it is done and back to normal , Thankyou very much for the replies, the help and that link you gave me

God Bless

PS - The pump I pulled out is made by
Airtex Master/Fuel Pump







Part Number: E2000

It has a 1 year warranty and lasted 14 months , very sad , I am sure I will never buy one of these pumps , I will stick with Bosch .

 

I'm glad I could help.

 

For what it's worth, here are the best Advance Auto coupons I know about at the moment:
10 off 30 - VISA 33.33%
15 off 40 - BIG1540 37.50%
20 off 50 - PAYPAL 40.00%
30 off 75 - VISA 40.00%
40 off 100 - CCABIN 40.00%
50 off 150 - VISA 33.33%
20% - P20