Hello all,

recently bought a 95 f150. Gave some tlc, and went for my first real drive, and the clutch hydraulic hose disconnected. During this, the clutch would get stuck to the floor, it was so soft and would only start if I held the clutch to the floor as hard as I could. Today, Nov 13, 2022 I replaced the hydraulic hose, gave her fresh fluid, and I got my clutch back, partially. It feels good going to the floor, comes up some and gets stuck DOES NOT RETURN FULLY, and now no matter what I do, it will not star. People keep saying bleed the system. What do I do?

 

The clutch petal sticking is a usual sign of air in the system, but having to push the clutch really hard in order to start sounds like a linkage problem. Pre-'92 trucks had an issue with the bushings in the clutch/brake pedal assembly wearing out, allowing the steel clutch pedal rod to wear into the main bracket, causing the circle hole to turn into an oval, which caused similar issues. But I haven't heard of that happening in a '92-'96 before. And the plastic brushing where the master cylinder push-rod attaches to the pedal assembly swing arm can wear out too, also causing clutch issues. So I's start by looking under the dash and making sure everything from the pedal to the master cylinder is in good shape and has no excessive play. When you drove the truck, did it shift smoothly?

 

You should put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:

(click this text)


Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.Even if you bypass the clutch switch? Have you checked that it's still installed correctly on the master cylinder pushrod?

(click this text)
So, did you?

(click this text)
I've only heard of it in '92-96s. I broke a couple of pre-'92 pedal boxes, but never wore through a bushing in them. I've replaced the bushings in both of my '92-96 pedal boxes.

(click this text)

 

I understand, I’ve read a lot and people seem to put the bushings as a culprit. The one that connects to the rod of the master cylinder has been replaced recently. The ones connecting the brake and the clutch probably haven’t ever been replaced. When I drove it, it shifted just fine, then the hydraulic hose went out.

 

we’ve bled the system to where nothing but beautiful dot 3 comes through. When this happened, I got my clutch back for the most part, but still has some play. I’m gonna bypass the safety switch tomorrow but doing the wiring trick

 

Heres what I do to get all of the air out.....

After I use the bleeder screw to get the majority of the air out I wait 10 mins for all of the atomized air with-in the hydraulic fluid to gather and turn into a bigger airbubble....

I take a descent size wrench and I tap on the clutch master body and all along the plastic clutch hose where it has those crazy bends......If you keep the reservoir open you can actually see the air bubbles shooting to the surface and some even look like specs of dirt then disappear under a LED flashlight beam........

After the airbubbles stop I push the clutchpedal slowly down then let it come up then I push it down again and let it return up then wait 10 mins again to redo the tap routine to see if theres anymore airbubbles....

As you do it you will feel the clutchpedal getting more resistance at a higher pedal meaning your clutch is gaining more travel at the disc now....

Another thing to look at is the clutch pedal shaft and the pivot end pin too.....

Those pesky nylon plastic clips stink badly and dont do a good job at giving a good positive clutch feel...

On my truck I put a spherical rod end...They sell them cheap on ebay and amazon and one of the best mods you can do......

I also had to replace the clutch and brake pedal holder assembly as the steel shaft worn so badly through the worn out aluminum shell that I was losing almost all of my clutch throw through the excess angle it worn into and wasnt seen until I pushed the clutch while looking up....I watched the shaft at the pivot rod end move back 3/8" before pushing the rod forward......

The upgraded spherical rod end makes the clutch feel very effortless and less noisy too..........

My clutch is buttery smooth and only takes half as much foot effort to get the gears to change too..

The pressed-in pin on the pivot end easily removes with vice grips but the pivot can be removed via a nut and put in a vice to remove it too with a drift pin......