Alright new problem here..I bought the code reader off of the handsontools website. 1989 ford f150 302 5 speed.
codes
KOEO
11-pass
33-egr not closing properly

KOER
33-egr not closing properly

Now I know my egrs probably bad. The odd problem, when I turn my heat on the truck dies at idle (truck idles around 6-700). Truck dies when the compressor kicks on, I charged the a/c and used it all summer no problem.

2 weeks ago I changed the valve cover gaskets due to a leak, and the plenum gasket was broken (I used to have a higher idle around 1100). After that the idle went to where it should be (6-700). Egr and throttle body also have new gaskets.

Now my question is what did I mess up this time? all of the vacuum lines appear to be on properly/not broken or cracked. Could a stuck egr valve be my culprit(making the truck die)?

Should the compressor be kicking on every setting? it kicks on max, norm, vent. I Know the compressor kicks on in defrost mode to my knowledge, Is it supposed to kick on every setting? It wouldn't surprise me since my controls don't actually have an a/c on button.

 

I think you have two issues:
1) the compressor should not cycle with the heat or vent running

2) your egr system will drive you nuts.

With the engine running and warmed up, get where you can see the piston inside the egr valve through the holes in it. Rev the motor from the throttle body (or have a buddy do it from inside the cab). You should be able to see the egr piston moving up and down as the rpms change. If it's not moving, you likely either have a vacuum leak to sort out, or the valve is stuck.

The change in idle is probably from a vacuum leak that you accidentally fixed doing the other work. The motor never died before because it was revving high enough to keep running.

 

I just fought this fight.

I would say you more then likely bumped some of the carbon loose (when doing the other work on the motor) in the EGR valve and now it is lodged in the bottom and will not let it close properly. You can take the valve off and try cleaning it with carb cleaner first. This did not work for me, but some others have had some luck cleaning theirs.

If you know there are no vacuum leaks then I would check the EGR regulator first to make sure it is closing properly and not allowing vacuum when its not calling for it. There should be less then 1hg of vacuum at the EGR when the truck is warm and idling.

If the regulator checks out then you can do the sight test as aliens8mycow mention to see if the EGR sensor is working.

My bet is the gunk in the bottom of the valve. After replacing my EGR valve I cut it open and carbon build up was keeping it from closing.

Hopes this helps