Can't get to operating temp!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Racine, WI
I found the problem. When my dad's "mechanic" put in a new heater core, he never "burped" the system. He said the air will just work it's way out. Well, Iburped the system and found it took an entire gallon of anti freeze. I filled it up and wa la....I have heat! Thanks for your sugestions guys.
1989 5.0 F150 XLT Lariat
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
From: Tucson
Ive had the same problem. I traded computer work at a mech shop that the border patrols uses and had my Thermosat and thermo housing gasket replaced, since then my truck never warms up when its idling. Before having it worked on it normally ran around 190F and on a hot day it would run around 210 or 220. Now if driving it will go to 190f and at the most 200 on the highway. Normal or Not? How do you burp the cooling system?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58,557
Likes: 1,165
From: Long Beach Calimexifornia
Start with a cold engine. Remove the radiator cap and fill it.. Make sure the overflow tank is also at the proper cold fill level. With the radiator cap off, start the engine. Make sure your heater is set to maximum defrost. This is important because most cars, especially those with automatic temperature control heating and air conditioning, allow coolant to flow through the heater core while warming up. You want 100% circulation of the coolant. Let the engine operate long enough to warm up enough to reduce the idle speed to a normal idle.
Let it idle until it's at normal operating temperature, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. It's important to not rev the engine, even slightly, as this will force coolant out of the open radiator.
You might notice some bubbling of coolant out of the open radiator during warm up. This bubbling is normal if you have air trapped in your system, and is caused by the air escaping as it reaches the area of the open radiator cap. Unless the bubbling is excessive, continue to let the engine run at idle for a few minutes once it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it down. Allow the engine and cooling system to cool off, preferably overnight. Then check your coolant level again. If it dropped, that means you've displaced some of the air in your system. Refill to proper levels, and repeat the process. Do this until the level doesn't drop any longer, then replace your radiator cap. courtesy of Cut&Paste
Let it idle until it's at normal operating temperature, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. It's important to not rev the engine, even slightly, as this will force coolant out of the open radiator.
You might notice some bubbling of coolant out of the open radiator during warm up. This bubbling is normal if you have air trapped in your system, and is caused by the air escaping as it reaches the area of the open radiator cap. Unless the bubbling is excessive, continue to let the engine run at idle for a few minutes once it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it down. Allow the engine and cooling system to cool off, preferably overnight. Then check your coolant level again. If it dropped, that means you've displaced some of the air in your system. Refill to proper levels, and repeat the process. Do this until the level doesn't drop any longer, then replace your radiator cap. courtesy of Cut&Paste
1989 5.0 F150 XLT Lariat
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
From: Tucson
Start with a cold engine. Remove the radiator cap and fill it.. Make sure the overflow tank is also at the proper cold fill level. With the radiator cap off, start the engine. Make sure your heater is set to maximum defrost. This is important because most cars, especially those with automatic temperature control heating and air conditioning, allow coolant to flow through the heater core while warming up. You want 100% circulation of the coolant. Let the engine operate long enough to warm up enough to reduce the idle speed to a normal idle.
Let it idle until it's at normal operating temperature, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. It's important to not rev the engine, even slightly, as this will force coolant out of the open radiator.
You might notice some bubbling of coolant out of the open radiator during warm up. This bubbling is normal if you have air trapped in your system, and is caused by the air escaping as it reaches the area of the open radiator cap. Unless the bubbling is excessive, continue to let the engine run at idle for a few minutes once it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it down. Allow the engine and cooling system to cool off, preferably overnight. Then check your coolant level again. If it dropped, that means you've displaced some of the air in your system. Refill to proper levels, and repeat the process. Do this until the level doesn't drop any longer, then replace your radiator cap. courtesy of Cut&Paste
Let it idle until it's at normal operating temperature, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. It's important to not rev the engine, even slightly, as this will force coolant out of the open radiator.
You might notice some bubbling of coolant out of the open radiator during warm up. This bubbling is normal if you have air trapped in your system, and is caused by the air escaping as it reaches the area of the open radiator cap. Unless the bubbling is excessive, continue to let the engine run at idle for a few minutes once it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it down. Allow the engine and cooling system to cool off, preferably overnight. Then check your coolant level again. If it dropped, that means you've displaced some of the air in your system. Refill to proper levels, and repeat the process. Do this until the level doesn't drop any longer, then replace your radiator cap. courtesy of Cut&Paste