James Hayes

the color shouldnt matter as long as it looks just like the old one, in shape and diameter.

jhelrey

As long as they look the same you will be fine. Flush it with an air compressor but with the can removed otherwise it will just gather in there.

c.j.

The orifice tube colors refer to a specific size orifice. Here is a link to a chart: http://www.aircondition.com/tech/que...be-Color-Chart. Rule of thumb: always go back with the same color. Then if you encounter a problem you won't have to second guess yourself about using a different color. .005 ain't much but it can make a difference. tdcarter I sent you a pm. Let me know if you got it or not. Do you know what the pressures were when the system was working? Remember if you put 134a into a system without flushing the mineral oil and replacing it with the correct oil(PAG/ESTER) the refrigerant is not miscible with mineral oil as used in R12 systems. That means it will not migrate through the system with the refrigerant and usually results in "Black Death" aka a wasted compressor. Some compressors come with a label that reads "Compatible" with R134a and R12. However they usually contain PAG oil for Fords. I discussed this with the Denso people ( a woman who has never turned a wrench) and they agreed but said that if using R12 be sure to use the oil recommended by Ford. My dealer had no clue. I used 500 mineral oil when using R12. c.j.

tdcarter72

C.J. - I did not get the pm.

I do not know what the system pressures were.

From my understanding the system was changed over to R134a by the last owner (I called and asked). I questioned this because the system does not have the R134a fittings installed. So, with not knowing for sure, a good flush is in order. I am going back with R134a.

When reading the paperwork that come with the new compressor, it does not say what oil to use. It just says: "If uncertain about the proper lubricant type or amount, refer to the Capacities Guide, the under hood decal, or an O.E. service manual." also says: "Compressors are shipped with assembly lube or ICE 32. DO NOT DRAIN. Add the correct type and amount of lubricant per specific system specifications."

Not a lot of help in the paperwork they sent. I will do some research when I get home from work today about whether I need pag or ester oil with this new system.

RocketScott

As stated before the color makes a difference with the orifice valve. When I converted my system I found a variable orifice valve that is supposed to make the system work better. Can't really tell if it made a difference but it wasn't expensive so I put it in. Here is a discussion about it:

http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/VOV2.php

When I did my system the evaporator was leaking so I had to replace that. I was also told to replace the dryer, which I did. I flushed the condenser, compressor and all the lines. The oil I used was what they sell at the parts store for 134a systems.

tdcarter72

Well, I still need help in finding out which oil I should be using in my system, PAG or ESTER. I did however find the O.E. specifications for my trucks factory air capacities and type which are:

Refrigerant - R-12 52oz
Oil - Paraffin 10oz

So, can I assume (theres that word) that I would use the same capacities with the R134a refrigerant and either PAG or Ester oil?

c.j.

Most Fords that use R134a have PAG oil. I am sorry about not getting the p.m. to You, I have been out of state. I'll try to get it to you tomorrow.

Ester is corrosive and PAG is even more corrosive. Keep it off the paint. I have seen R-12 systems converted to R-134a without using the retrofit fitings. I have a pair of adapters for that but I believe it is now illegal to not use the new adapters. Problem with them is that with the old schraeder type valve fittings I have a tool that allows me to change a leaking valve core without losing any gas. It will not work on the new adapters and I don't know if one is available for that purpose. "Outa pocket/outa state/ and outa money !!!

DarkNite

I spent about an hour last night looking for the Orifice tube. I think I found it and after reading this I think you guys are talking about what I think is it. It does have a spring lock on it though. Any secret to getting that apart or just go to autozone and get the tool?

tdcarter72

I had the tool. They are not much, like $10-$12 for a set. When you get the tube apart, the o-tube will be down in the tube. Like they said in the above posts, put a little ref. oil on the o-tube to help loosen it up. Mine was still a pain to get out, ending up making a hook with a hanger to get it out.

good luck

c.j.

You need da' tool mon ! You'll only make a mess without it. c.j.