Burnt out ECM?
12-06-2017, 05:49 PM
#1
Burnt out ECM?
So I had a stumble in idle the other day. I had literally just ran the truck through a car wash.
I ignored it- and now the stumble is ‘practically’ a no-run condition. It idles terribly and stalls. Code is 44 (Thermactor system leak) and 33 (EGR close not sensed). I tested the EGR as that code had been thrown for a while and I know my EGR doesn’t work correctly (Applying vacuum to -25 didn’t affect the idle at all or cause it to stall). I assume it’s stuck closed.
Nevertheless- the other day I went to start it. Turned Key to On position. No Clicks, No CEL, and nothing. Left truck for a few days and it came back- albeit still rough. It now runs, however it sputters pretty hard. I pulled out the PCM. Around each of the blue capacitors is what looks like a puddle. Take a look at the photos. I may run to a junkyard to see if a new PCM is in order. Let me know what you think
normally I wouldn’t have thought it to be a PCM issue however it happened after it potentially got wet in the car wash, and the lack of a CEL and clicks when turning the key to On got me interested in pulling it.
12-07-2017, 10:01 AM
#2
This is an extremely common problem with this generation of PCM's found in the F150. The capacitors leak and if left long enough will corrode the circuit board, often making it not rebuild-able. That may be the case here.
If you go junkyard searching, you may want to open up the PCM before buying it, but be prepared to be disappointed. Almost all the ones I've checked are leaking, but usually they don't look as bad as yours.
The capacitors can be replaced if you're good with a soldering gun. I bought a batch of them with the intent to sell them and/or repair PCM's on an exchange basis. I just haven't gotten the proverbial "round tuit" yet.
If you go junkyard searching, you may want to open up the PCM before buying it, but be prepared to be disappointed. Almost all the ones I've checked are leaking, but usually they don't look as bad as yours.
The capacitors can be replaced if you're good with a soldering gun. I bought a batch of them with the intent to sell them and/or repair PCM's on an exchange basis. I just haven't gotten the proverbial "round tuit" yet.
12-07-2017, 11:38 AM
#3
This is an extremely common problem with this generation of PCM's found in the F150. The capacitors leak and if left long enough will corrode the circuit board, often making it not rebuild-able. That may be the case here.
If you go junkyard searching, you may want to open up the PCM before buying it, but be prepared to be disappointed. Almost all the ones I've checked are leaking, but usually they don't look as bad as yours.
The capacitors can be replaced if you're good with a soldering gun. I bought a batch of them with the intent to sell them and/or repair PCM's on an exchange basis. I just haven't gotten the proverbial "round tuit" yet.
If you go junkyard searching, you may want to open up the PCM before buying it, but be prepared to be disappointed. Almost all the ones I've checked are leaking, but usually they don't look as bad as yours.
The capacitors can be replaced if you're good with a soldering gun. I bought a batch of them with the intent to sell them and/or repair PCM's on an exchange basis. I just haven't gotten the proverbial "round tuit" yet.
12-07-2017, 11:51 AM
#4
Old Timer
Capture/save all the numbers/letters on your current computer.
What year/engine is this truck?
http://www.car-part.com/ Search for "Engine Computer"
What year/engine is this truck?
http://www.car-part.com/ Search for "Engine Computer"
12-07-2017, 04:01 PM
#5
Capture/save all the numbers/letters on your current computer.
What year/engine is this truck?
http://www.car-part.com/ Search for "Engine Computer"
What year/engine is this truck?
http://www.car-part.com/ Search for "Engine Computer"
Would an 89 F150 Manual ECU work fine?
12-07-2017, 04:09 PM
#6
Old Timer
Well, there are many calibrations of EECMs, AT/MT/4x4/high altitude/California/Emissions configuration.
So, maybe..maybe not.. Try to match up for your configuration as close as possible. The numbers and CAL code on your original EECM will help (if your EECM is original)
Does your engine still have a Calibration Code? on maybe the valve cover.
So, maybe..maybe not.. Try to match up for your configuration as close as possible. The numbers and CAL code on your original EECM will help (if your EECM is original)
Does your engine still have a Calibration Code? on maybe the valve cover.
Last edited by vjsimone; 12-07-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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12-07-2017, 07:41 PM
#9
I’ll double check sticker but I believe it said 01/89 on the sticker.
on a side note I cleaned the EGR and it moves great now- code 33 still there.
Code 44 also.
however today it did the ‘no CEL / no clicks’ thing again when key moved to ‘On’. Moving the key back and forth a few times it eventually clicked and started. Still acts like it’s got bad fuel / vacuum leak / clogged cats.. not sure which of them it is yet. Want to get ECU fixed first I think.
on a side note I cleaned the EGR and it moves great now- code 33 still there.
Code 44 also.
however today it did the ‘no CEL / no clicks’ thing again when key moved to ‘On’. Moving the key back and forth a few times it eventually clicked and started. Still acts like it’s got bad fuel / vacuum leak / clogged cats.. not sure which of them it is yet. Want to get ECU fixed first I think.
12-08-2017, 05:10 AM
#10
wow thank you for that link- plenty of matching ECMs. Will order one and reply here how it works out. Going to measure manifold vacuum and fuel pressure in the meantime to verify all else is working ok.