Brake problem on 95 xlt
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
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Brake problem on 95 xlt
I just recently bought all new parts for the front brakes on my 1995 f150 xlt 4x4 and before I replaced the calipers, rotors, and pads the brakes worked then I put new pads, rotors, calipers, and master cylinder but when I try to bleed the brakes I get no pedal so what's the problem? I need help.
Chimp Racing
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 493
Likes: 2
From: Candler, NC
fill up your master cylinder fluid reservoir. pump brakes until pedal gets stiff. bleed on wheel at a time.(this is very time consuming with one person.FYI. so get a buddy to help??) i like to use a mason jar and a tube run into some fresh fluid that's poured into the jar and put tube into fluid to see if air bubbles are still in the lines. works every time!
you may want to top off fluid reservoir after bleeding.
P.S. don't leave your bleeding screw on your caliper loose while pumping brakes. makes it a whole lot easier and less mess to handle.
you may want to top off fluid reservoir after bleeding.
P.S. don't leave your bleeding screw on your caliper loose while pumping brakes. makes it a whole lot easier and less mess to handle.
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 8
You are making it too complicated
1. Jack up the front, Place Jack Stands, and take off the wheels.
2. Take the rubber covers off the bleeders, and put a pan under each Caliper.
3. Open the hood, remove the cover from the MC and fill the reservoir up to the neck. Leave the cover off.
4. Open both bleeders, and have a seat. In about 3 to 5 minutes fluid will start dripping out of the bleeders. Let it drip for a while, and while it is running lightly tap each caliper with a small ball peen hammer. Do this about three times each side. When you see no more air, close the bleeders, and put the cap on the MC.
5. Start the truck. Pump the pedal a few times. Shut off the truck and get out. Take the cover off the MC and check to see that your level is at MAX or a bit higher.
6. Open the bleeders again and let drip, tapping a couple times. When no more air comes out, close bleeders, clean up, install rubber caps, put wheels back on and torque to 150 ftlb.
This is how you gravity bleed your brakes. You don't need vacuum, pump and hold helpers, pressure bleeders or anything else, just gravity, which, in my experience, and often to my misfortune, never fails.
This method assumes that you did everything else right. Believe me, it works, I just finished doing my brakes, and they work beautifully.
JimA
2. Take the rubber covers off the bleeders, and put a pan under each Caliper.
3. Open the hood, remove the cover from the MC and fill the reservoir up to the neck. Leave the cover off.
4. Open both bleeders, and have a seat. In about 3 to 5 minutes fluid will start dripping out of the bleeders. Let it drip for a while, and while it is running lightly tap each caliper with a small ball peen hammer. Do this about three times each side. When you see no more air, close the bleeders, and put the cap on the MC.
5. Start the truck. Pump the pedal a few times. Shut off the truck and get out. Take the cover off the MC and check to see that your level is at MAX or a bit higher.
6. Open the bleeders again and let drip, tapping a couple times. When no more air comes out, close bleeders, clean up, install rubber caps, put wheels back on and torque to 150 ftlb.
This is how you gravity bleed your brakes. You don't need vacuum, pump and hold helpers, pressure bleeders or anything else, just gravity, which, in my experience, and often to my misfortune, never fails.
This method assumes that you did everything else right. Believe me, it works, I just finished doing my brakes, and they work beautifully.
JimA