brake fluid flush
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Seņor Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,509
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From: Springfield, OH
brake fluid flush
well I got some new brake pads to put on while I'm down here doing my ball joints, and I happened to glance up at the master cylinder... not pretty. That fluid is certainly due for a swap. Chilton's has a procedure for bleeding the brake lines that involves opening the bleed valves on each wheel while depressing the brake pedal and making sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry, is that the procedure I'm looking for? Anyone done this before? Anyone have any idea of the total volume of fluid I'll be putting in? Thanks!
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 480
From: Cape Girardeau MO
The RABS valve - not sure where it is - I've never fooled with it in my flushing, everything seemed to turn out OK. However, I may have just been lucky?
I'm sure there are several opinions on how-to - here's my offering. Start with the right-rear and bleed until the fluid runs clear.
BTW, I use a one-man bleeder kit made by Lisle, about $5-$10 at the local parts shop - saves having to have another person open and close the bleeder valve, along with the challenges of coordination between two people. Just fill the bleeder cup (a little bigger than a Dixie cup) with fluid, and use the smallest fitting that will go over the wheel cylinder port, for a good seal - then loosen the port and bleed away - slowly.
Progress to the left-rear, right-front, and finally left-front - essentially going from the longest run of brake line to the shortest. Bleed each until clear - usually takes me just short of three quarts - depends on one's definition of clear, plus the little extra for good measure.
As long as you make sure the master never runs dry - you'll be OK. If you do push air - you'll need to start all over with the right-rear, until the air bubbles come through. Watch the master cylinder level closely until you get the hang of it - the level goes down pretty quick - I'm thinking somewhere's in the neighborhood of 8 - 12 full pedal depressions, then it's time to refill.
Either put the master cylinder cap back on each time, or again, go slowly - hitting the pedal too hard can cause a stream of fluid to shoot out the opening, making a mess in the engine compartment. I like to put the bleeder cup into a gallon jug with an opening cut in the top to just fit the bleeder - saves a lot of handling. While you're at it - have a look inside the master to ensure that the low-level float is free to move.
I try to change my fluid every 2-3 years. Always amazed by the amount of crud that comes out.
I'm sure there are several opinions on how-to - here's my offering. Start with the right-rear and bleed until the fluid runs clear.
BTW, I use a one-man bleeder kit made by Lisle, about $5-$10 at the local parts shop - saves having to have another person open and close the bleeder valve, along with the challenges of coordination between two people. Just fill the bleeder cup (a little bigger than a Dixie cup) with fluid, and use the smallest fitting that will go over the wheel cylinder port, for a good seal - then loosen the port and bleed away - slowly.
Progress to the left-rear, right-front, and finally left-front - essentially going from the longest run of brake line to the shortest. Bleed each until clear - usually takes me just short of three quarts - depends on one's definition of clear, plus the little extra for good measure.
As long as you make sure the master never runs dry - you'll be OK. If you do push air - you'll need to start all over with the right-rear, until the air bubbles come through. Watch the master cylinder level closely until you get the hang of it - the level goes down pretty quick - I'm thinking somewhere's in the neighborhood of 8 - 12 full pedal depressions, then it's time to refill.
Either put the master cylinder cap back on each time, or again, go slowly - hitting the pedal too hard can cause a stream of fluid to shoot out the opening, making a mess in the engine compartment. I like to put the bleeder cup into a gallon jug with an opening cut in the top to just fit the bleeder - saves a lot of handling. While you're at it - have a look inside the master to ensure that the low-level float is free to move.
I try to change my fluid every 2-3 years. Always amazed by the amount of crud that comes out.