Brake Drums
I wish I could afford to set my truck on fire.
Here's the problem
Both rear bleed screws are rusted to hell. The passenger side socket is stripped, so the new screw will go in but wont tighten and it slowly leaked all night long. I will try and get the next size bleeder and rethread it but who knows if it works.
The drivers side rear bleed screw is rusted in and rounded off. Is it possible to remove the whole drum assembly? I need to get to the bleed screw on the back side... I can file it down if I have it on a workbench.
Any suggestions would be great...Thanks!
93 f150, 2wd, 4.9l
Here's the problem
Both rear bleed screws are rusted to hell. The passenger side socket is stripped, so the new screw will go in but wont tighten and it slowly leaked all night long. I will try and get the next size bleeder and rethread it but who knows if it works.
The drivers side rear bleed screw is rusted in and rounded off. Is it possible to remove the whole drum assembly? I need to get to the bleed screw on the back side... I can file it down if I have it on a workbench.
Any suggestions would be great...Thanks!
93 f150, 2wd, 4.9l
Last edited by Taylon; Mar 15, 2009 at 04:14 PM.
Sounds like you need to replace both rear brake cylinders and may be rear brake lines. It's better not to disassemble both rear brakes at the same time to have a sample "how it is assembled".
I did both drum brakes in the back, this is what I replaced.
The drums, the pads, the cylinders, and the flex hose. I did not replace the springs, auto tensor, nor the metal fluid lines.
Mine were also as described. They were rusted, and leaking. Its better just to replace them, and do it one at a time, it gets confusing in there.
You will need some good needle nose pliers, an extra pair of hands, a lot of brake fluid (for bleeding), and some know how. My exhaust pipe ripped a hole in the flex hose, when I went to bleed the new cylinders the hose couldn't take the pressure and blew up. It cost me about 80 for everything. cheap if you ask me. And it took me about 4 hours, two hours per side because I had no idea what I was doing, and a lot of cleaning. If you have any questions you can pm me. or ask here, we have experience with this. But I wouldn't do what your suggesting.
The drums, the pads, the cylinders, and the flex hose. I did not replace the springs, auto tensor, nor the metal fluid lines.
Mine were also as described. They were rusted, and leaking. Its better just to replace them, and do it one at a time, it gets confusing in there.
You will need some good needle nose pliers, an extra pair of hands, a lot of brake fluid (for bleeding), and some know how. My exhaust pipe ripped a hole in the flex hose, when I went to bleed the new cylinders the hose couldn't take the pressure and blew up. It cost me about 80 for everything. cheap if you ask me. And it took me about 4 hours, two hours per side because I had no idea what I was doing, and a lot of cleaning. If you have any questions you can pm me. or ask here, we have experience with this. But I wouldn't do what your suggesting.
Yep - recommend to replace known problem parts, especially in the brakes and steering areas. These areas are just too important to be improvising and wing-nutting on.
Figure if one can steer and stop - not a lot of trouble left to get into.
Figure if one can steer and stop - not a lot of trouble left to get into.
Trending Topics
ive finally replaced everything... new calipers, all new lines, and the drums...
but i cant get the passenger side drum to go back on to save my life. the shoes dont seem to be seating completely closed but they are the same way they were when i took them apart and i cant get them to close any tighter...
im lost. cant believe how many speedbumps have come along in this "project."
but i cant get the passenger side drum to go back on to save my life. the shoes dont seem to be seating completely closed but they are the same way they were when i took them apart and i cant get them to close any tighter...
im lost. cant believe how many speedbumps have come along in this "project."
Well if you take the self adjuster down a couple more notches you'll find more space to close them more. I ran against that problem as well. And it is a tight fit, i had to put the wheel on to get it all seated. It rubs for the next couple of days, so really touchy but after that they're fine.
I would also bleed the entire system. Do the right rear first, then the left rear, then right front, then left front. Farthest from master cylinder first, then work your way closer. If you don't, it will take forever, and you will never get quite all the air out.



