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A bit of info for those looking to build 300+hp 5.0L/302s

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Old 01-31-2018, 09:56 AM
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The 92 truck is a roller, so he should be able to reuse the truck distributor. Just verify that Ford didn't have any flat tappet crossover from 91.

I agree 100% on using a truck cam instead of the mustang cam.
Old 03-30-2018, 02:31 PM
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Ive got a question regarding pushrod guide plates that maybe you know the answer to qdeezie, or anyone who is familiar with the internals of these truck 302s. I'm doing a partial-build on my 302. The engine is from a 91 F150, so it had flat tappet lifters, and stamped rockers. In my build, I upgraded to a comp cam and roller lifters. OEM heads, with new valves/springs. I plan to stick with the stamped rockers. When taking everything apart, there were no guide plates, but the motor had been rebuilt once before so i can't know for sure what I found was exactly like factory. When doing this build, do I need guide plates? I guess I'm just not clear what motors need them vs which ones don't.

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Old 03-30-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lgnd4u2nv
Ive got a question regarding pushrod guide plates that maybe you know the answer to qdeezie, or anyone who is familiar with the internals of these truck 302s. I'm doing a partial-build on my 302. The engine is from a 91 F150, so it had flat tappet lifters, and stamped rockers. In my build, I upgraded to a comp cam and roller lifters. OEM heads, with new valves/springs. I plan to stick with the stamped rockers. When taking everything apart, there were no guide plates, but the motor had been rebuilt once before so i can't know for sure what I found was exactly like factory. When doing this build, do I need guide plates? I guess I'm just not clear what motors need them vs which ones don't.
These engines in factory form do not have pushrod guide plates. The stamped rocker arms are made in such a manner that eliminates the need for guide plates. If you were to go with an aftermarket head that has stud mounted rocker arms instead of pedestal mounted rocker arms, then you'd need pushrod guide plates.

Hope this helps.
Old 03-30-2018, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by qdeezie
These engines in factory form do not have pushrod guide plates. The stamped rocker arms are made in such a manner that eliminates the need for guide plates. If you were to go with an aftermarket head that has stud mounted rocker arms instead of pedestal mounted rocker arms, then you'd need pushrod guide plates.

Hope this helps.
It does, thanks!
Old 04-04-2018, 02:32 PM
  #115  
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Ton of great info in this thread, glad I found it while searching for answers to a problem I'm having.

I've got a 96 F150 that I am currently building a 347 stroker for. Right now, I'm assembling my block, working on getting the chains and sprockets on so I can set timing. Just waiting on a new camshaft thrust plate from Ford.

The problem I am coming across right now is with the harmonic balancer. The machine shop that did all my block machining as well as order parts for me, ordered me a new balancer (Pro products balancer). The factory unit, as you know, has a 4 point trigger wheel on the back of it that communicates with, what some people refer to as, a crank sensor and/or misfire detection sensor. I don't see any aftermarket trigger wheels to replace the factory wheel, I also called the company that I'm getting a tune from to see if they could turn the sensor/CEL off for that sensor but they're telling me they have tried in the past with no success. What are my options?

Thank you for any and all information.
Old 04-04-2018, 03:59 PM
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I would Google 'custom harmonic balancer' and have someone custom build one.
Old 04-04-2018, 04:55 PM
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Thanks, man. The machine shop didn't seem to have an answer for me so i've gotta do my own digging.
Old 04-04-2018, 09:35 PM
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You do need the trigger wheel from the old balancer, it's just removed and bolted to the new balancer. The new balancer has to be ordered for a 96 for it to have the bolt holes to accept the wheel.
Old 04-09-2018, 10:14 PM
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I registered as a user on this forum because of this thread. I have researched bottom end torque small block ford efi builds for weeks and I've gotten nowhere until now. Excellent and thank you. I am putting a small block ford in my Jeep. I will be starting from scratch. I feel like a 302 is plenty unless starting with a 351 is better. I have a running 1994 351w in a truck cheap if I want it but I want to build what is my better option. Everything else I have read says that the truck intakes are junk. You say they are better than the rest for low end torque. You have my attention. I have bought nothing. I want to spend $2500 OR LESS on the entire engine including electrical and engine. I am all ears for any a to z advice you've got. Thank you. This is an excellent thread.

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Old 04-10-2018, 09:45 PM
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For $2500 your best bang for the buck is the 351 from the truck along with its harness to make the fuel injection work.


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