A bit of info for those looking to build 300+hp 5.0L/302s
 

The goal of this thread is to serve as a guide for those individuals looking to make upgrades. Some of this is fact, some of this is from experience and some of this is purely my opinion.

This is in no way, the end all, be all of engine building that you’ll ever need and I strongly encourage you to research as much as you can prior to investing a single dime into your engine.

My idea of a great truck engine build is an engine that has superb low end torque and pulls through the power band without breaking a sweat.

So, with that being said, max HP numbers at 5000+ RPMs are out of the window. I am concerned with what happens from idle to about 5000 RPMs.

As far as HP rating, what I’m describing below should get you in the 300hp range depending on how far you go with your upgrades.

With this being said, let's get started.

From 1987 to 1991, these engines came with flat tappet camshafts that had the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order.

From 1992 to 1993, these engines came with roller camshafts that had the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order.

From 1994 to 1996, these engines came with roller camshafts that had the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order.

Regarding the 1987 to 1993 engines, the weak point in these engines from a HP/TQ perspective was clearly the camshaft. The camshaft specs were abysmal at best.

Regarding the 1994-1996 engines, the camshaft was upgraded and is the same camshaft that is used in the 1996-2001 5.0 HO Explorer engines. It isn’t the greatest camshaft, but it was a significant upgrade from the 1987-1993 camshafts.

With regards to what will give these engines better HP/TQ, I will focus mainly on three areas: Heads, Intake and Camshaft.

Camshaft: This is the first piece of the puzzle that you should consider upgrading. The factory camshaft as I’ve mentioned before is abysmal at best.

’93 Earlier Trucks: If your truck is ’93 or earlier, your engine runs on a setup called Speed Density. Basically, what this means in the simplest of terms for this discussion is that your MAP sensor needs to see a certain amount of vacuum in order for your engine to run properly. There are three off the shelf camshafts that should work in your truck without having to upgrade your engine setup to Mass Air (which I’ll cover shortly).

Three camshafts that should work with Speed Density are:

Comp Cams: 35-512-8 | Has the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order, but you can get Comp Cams to custom ground it to the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order if you want to keep the stock firing order. I will cover changing the firing order below.

Comp Cams: 35-349-8 | Has the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order, but you can get Comp Cams to custom ground it to the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order if you want to keep the stock firing order.

Crane Cams: 364211 | Has the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order.

I want to note that these three camshafts are roller camshafts. I strongly recommend upgrading your camshaft to a roller camshaft since your truck came with a roller block (even though pre-92 trucks came with a flat tappet camshaft).

If all you want to do with your truck is upgrade the stock engine a little bit and have a broader powerband, in my opinion, a simple camshaft swap with one of the 3 aforementioned cams will get you where you want to be.

Regarding the firing order and injector order, the 302/5.0L Speed Density setup will work with either firing order. The only thing that is required is changing the order of the spark plug wires if you go with the “1-3” firing order. Changing the injector wires is NOT required if you go with the “1-3” firing order.

’94 and later trucks: If your truck is a ’94 or later truck, your engine setup is called Mass Air. Basically, what this means for this conversation is that you have the flexibility to run a more aggressive camshaft that has less vacuum without drivability issues. Your engine is also able to be tuned to work perfectly with your camshaft. Regarding the speed density camshafts above, they will work just fine with your setup, but it is my opinion that if you are running Mass Air, you should install a custom ground camshaft in your truck that was made specifically for YOUR setup. Usually, they are about $50 more than an off the shelf cam. What I’m saying is that you have all the potential in the world, so maximize it!!!

Mustang Camshaft Note: I do not care how hard a B303, E303, Z303 or any other Mustang camshaft pulls in a Mustang. It is not a TRUCK camshaft and has no place in a truck. A Mustang camshaft in a truck causes you to lose low end torque, which is what a truck needs. This is because F-150s are much heavier than Mustangs and therefore, require a different powerband than a Mustang, which means your engine setup needs to be totally different.

This is not a set in stone, but a rule of thumb is that a camshaft with an intake duration higher than 215 is not a good fit for a truck. Usually, Mustang camshafts are much higher than this.

Heads:

Our trucks came with what are known as “E7” heads. These are another weak spot on our engines. You have a few options here. The main goal is to keep the intake runner size at about 170cc’s or less and you’ll have something that pulls pretty good.

Heads to consider for our truck are:

Cast Iron GT40 Heads | Note: ‘95-earlier GT40 heads have smog ports. ’96-later GT40 heads DO NOT have smog ports. If your build requires you to consider emissions, this is something you need to take into consideration. If your heads came off a Lightning, you’ll need reducer washers for proper fitment.

GT40p Heads | Note: These heads have a different spark plug angle, which will require headers that clear the spark plugs. Also, GT40p heads DO NOT have smog ports. Once again, something to consider if your build requires you to take emissions into consideration.

For both the GT40 and GT40p heads, I STRONGLY suggest upgrading the valve springs. Using the manufacturer recommended springs for your camshaft are a safe bet.

AFR 165 Heads | Have options for pedestal mounted rocker arms or stud mounted rocker arms. They also have emissions legal heads as well.

Trick Flow 170cc Heads – Will require stud mounted rocker arms. They have an emissions legal head available.

Brodix ST 5.0 Heads or Brodix ST 5.0R Heads | These have the smog ports as well. The ST 5.0 are the pedestal mounted heads and the ST 5.0R are the stud mounted heads.

There are other heads that I didn’t list, but I feel like these are either the most economical heads or the best quality or the most “powerful” heads or a combination of all of the above.

With regards to stud mounted heads, you will need to make changes to your valve covers or get taller valve covers. Taller valve covers may require you to purchase an intake spacer as well. These are things to consider. If you keep your stock pedestal mounted rocker arms, you can reuse the stock valve covers. Aftermarket pedestal mounted roller rockers may require valve cover changes as mentioned above for stud mounted rocker arms.

Intake Manifold: The 302/5.0L stock intake manifold is actually a great piece. It is the best flowing fuel injected factory 302/5.0 intake Ford ever made. The only thing you’ll need to do to your intake is port the lower to match the port size of the cylinder heads if you are upgrading your heads. This will save you a ton of money.

What this means is that the truck intake is better than a 5.0 HO Intake, a 5.0 Cobra/GT40/Explorer Intake or any other 5.0 intake that Ford built.
Edelbrock makes an aftermarket intake for our trucks and if you feel the need to upgrade your intake, this is the way to go. However, it is my opinion that your money would be best spent elsewhere because the stock truck intake is just that good when ported. If you want the absolute maximum amount of power and cost is not an issue, the Edelbrock truck intake is the way to go.

Other Factors to Consider:

Distributor: If your truck did not come with a roller camshaft, you will need to either install a steel gear on your distributor or buy a new distributor that has a steel gear. A distributor for a car that came with a 302/5.0L will work. Look for ’91-earlier car distributors.

Transmission: If you upgrade your engine, your transmission will require an upgrade as well or you will likely blow something to pieces. Reason being is that your transmission was not built to handle the amount of HP/TQ you will be making. So, what I’m saying is budget for a new transmission because I haven’t seen a case yet in which this didn’t happen.

Throttle Body: BBK makes a 56mm and 61mm throttle body. If you feel the need to upgrade the throttle body, go with the 56mm and make sure you polish (or Dremel) the area that the IAC valve goes to eliminate any whistling noises due to uneven surfaces. It needs to have a smooth surface.

IAC Bypass Plate: A larger camshaft means more airflow might be required at idle. You may need to order this to prevent your truck from either surging at idle or shutting off at idle. This should be part of your initial parts list in my opinion.

Crate Engines: Crate engines that advertise 350-400+ HP are more than likely not built for trucks. They are built for lightweight cars, such as Mustangs. You should look at the HP/TQ band with a very critical eye. However, there are crate engines that are built for trucks and reputable builders that can build a crate engine for a truck.

Stroker Engines: If you are looking to build a 331, 347, 363 or any other 302 based stroker engine, you should consider upgrading to Mass Air if you aren’t already running Mass Air. Also, if you are looking to be in the 400+hp territory with a stroker engine, you should consider an aftermarket engine block.

There is more I will cover later on in this thread, but I've been wanting to do this for awhile and this is my start.

Solid info, good write-up brother.

Pay special attention to the transmission section people. Mine let go on the dyno lol.

Yep. Also check or upgrade your rear end, the last thing you need a to break a c-clip.

These 8.8's are actually very strong rear ends. As long as everything is in good shape it'll hold up to a major beating before anything goes wrong.

Today, I will get into gaskets and proper engine sealing. This is a continuation of what I started above. This will not cover every single gasket, but it will cover what I feel like you need to know when planning a build.

Intake Manifold Gasket:

If you are using your stock head, a stock replacement intake manifold gasket set will work just fine and is more than sufficient.

If you are using a GT40, GT40p or an aluminum aftermarket head that I listed earlier, the gasket you will want to use is Ford Racing M-9439-G50.

Yes, for aluminum heads, they tell you to use Fel-Pro 1250, but I’m here to tell you that you are looking for trouble if you use it. It is (in my opinion) a race only gasket that will deteriorate over time. The aforementioned Ford Racing intake manifold gasket is a durable graphite gasket with a steel core and the port sizes should be large enough to work for your setup and you won’t have to worry about leaks and other issues down the road if you use it. Make sure you put a thin layer of RTV around the coolant ports on both sides of the gasket, which will be at the very front and very rear of the gaskets.

Another intake gasket that will work is Victor Reinz 95187SP.

I have also heard of people taking a new stock intake gasket and opening up the port size with a Dremel to work with aftermarket heads, so there are options. But avoid the Fel Pro 1250 at all costs is what I’m getting at.

Head Gaskets:

There are many, many options, but I will cover 3 gaskets that you should consider.

Fel-Pro 8548PT2 – Good stock type replacement head gasket with a thickness of .047. Honestly, this gasket is cheap and it works very well. Unless you’re going to be doing extreme stuff, this is probably all you need.

Fel-Pro 9333PT1 – Heavy duty head gasket with a thickness of .047. If you want the best sealing gasket at the best price, this is it. It is built to take pretty much whatever you can dish out. Out of the 3 head gaskets I’m discussing here, this is the best value by far and should probably be the first one you consider.

Mr. Gasket 5807G: If you are looking to bump up your compression ratio, this is the gasket for you. It has a .038 thickness and it made out of graphite with a steel core, so it is a durable gasket. One thing I want to note is to be careful about how much you bump up your compression because it could put you into premium fuel territory if you don’t watch it.

Timing Cover Gasket:
This is one that I don’t think many people know about. Cometic has a timing cover gasket that is rubber with a steel core. The part number is C5660-020. Buy this and you won’t have to worry about that paper timing cover gasket deteriorating. It is a very solid investment.

Rear Main Seal:
There are tons of rear main seals available, but the main thing I want to bring to your attention is that if you are using a crankshaft repair sleeve on your crankshaft, DO NOT USE A TEFLON SEAL. You must use a rubber seal or you will eventually have a leak, if you don’t have a leak right off gate. Plain and simple. Fel-Pro BS40620 is the rear main seal part number you’ll need for this scenario.

If you are not using a repair sleeve and your crankshaft journal is smooth, use any decent quality seal and you should be ok.

Head Bolts/Timing Cover Bolts:
For the short head bolts and the timing cover bolts that screw into the engine block, make sure you put a thread sealant on them to prevent coolant from coming out. I’m a fan of Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant Part Number: 59235. It’s a big bottle and should cover everything.

To take it one step further, make sure you have a means of cleaning the threads on the block prior to installing the bolts. Personally, I use a tap and penetrating oil and that cleans out the threads very well. ARP has taps specifically made to clean out threads, but I'm just too cheap to buy it, so I use a regular 'ol tap. Cleaning the threads ensures that you have accurate torque values when torquing it down.

Valve Cover Gaskets:
I won’t get into specific part numbers, but use a rubber gasket with a steel core. These are reusable. There are many to choose from.

Oil Pan Gasket:
Once again, I won’t get into specific part numbers, but use a one piece gasket and place RTV at the corners to prevent leaks.

Harmonic Balancer Sleeve:
Now this is one I’m sure I’ll get a few strange looks for saying. Even if I own a brand new balancer, I use a repair sleeve on it. This way I know that there will be a perfect seal and if the timing cover seal were to wear a groove into it, it would be that sleeve that gets the majority of the damage, not the harmonic balancer. Once again, this is something quirky that I do and it’s cheap enough to not be a big deal. I've heard of quite a few people using this same philosophy with using a crankshaft repair sleeve for the rear main seal.

At any rate, hopefully this gives you more to think about and consider. I'm not sure what I'll cover next, but I'll keep posting as things come to mind.

Good stuff man.

I already built my 302, but reading this anyway just because.

Turns out qbeezie pretty much has the same opinions as I do. I will add one thing though. It may not be necessary but I would replace the head bolts with a new set of ARP bolts or studs just to be safe.

Good Info.

Valve Cover Gasket. This is just to clarify, the Ford gasket for later 302, 94 on up, is a steel gasket with an imbedded o ring. Pricey but can be reused many times and will not leak. If you're careful removing the original ones they are fine to re use even at twenty years old.

Yep, I agree. I'll be covering bolts/studs in my next installment.

I think you should have reserved the first few posts for the later additions, great write up. Maybe a Mod can rearrange the posts so that they can run consecutive?

Intake Manifold Bolts:

Your engine has 10 regular bolts and two studs for the ignition coil bracket, for a total of 12 fasteners to secure down the intake. It has always been my bad luck that due to age, the bolts or the studs snap like toothpicks when attempting to re-torque them, so I just replace them with new bolts. Ideally, you should be reusing your two studs, but you should inspect the threads for signs of rust or deterioration before reusing them. If they don’t pass your inspection, you have either two options: 1) Relocate the ignition coil and use regular bolts or 2) Source studs that are in good condition.

With regards to replacing the intake bolts, ARP makes intake manifold bolts, but they are a bit pricey to me, so I found some Grade 8 flanged bolts by Hillman that have worked just fine for me. Two bolts come per pack and here is the part info: Hillman Hex Flange Bolts: Part # 883602.

If you live near a Pep Boys, you could order them and have them delivered to the store. If you don’t live near a Pep Boys, see what their delivery charge is or see if you can source these bolts from somewhere else. With regards to using washers with these bolts, I used hardened washers from Lowe’s. The main thing is you don’t want the washers with the oversized holes. You want the washers with the holes that are the same diameter as the bolt, so that everything is clean and secure.

Head Bolts:

These should be replaced when doing an engine build. There are 3 options to consider for securing your heads and I’ll explain the difference to narrow down your choice.

1) Stock Replacement Bolts – If you aren’t going too far over the top with your engine build and know that you aren’t going to be pulling your engine apart again to replace or upgrade your heads, this is the best choice for you.

2) High Performance Head Bolts – ARP makes a standard head bolt kit that is an upgrade from the stock head bolts. In my opinion, this is all you need. This gives you better clamping force and the bolts are reusable in case you have plans to upgrade your heads later on.

3) Head Studs – These provide the best clamping force by far and are reusable, but in my opinion, these are not necessary unless you have plans to run boost (Supercharger or Turbocharger) or Nitrous.


Timing Cover/Water Pump Bolt Set:

These are bolts and studs that you can replace as well. What I did was ordered the timing cover/water pump bolt kit from Latemodel Restoration for the 87-93 Mustangs. It was made for them by ARP. This includes that extra long bolt that is a salvage yard only part (from all of my looking around). The only thing with using this kit on your truck is that there are about 3 water pump bolts you’ll have to reuse from your truck or outright replace if you want all new bolts. Everything else (especially the timing cover bolts/studs) works just fine. It’s just those 3 water pump bolts or so that you might have to reuse (if I remember correctly). Here is the part number info: Latemodel Restoration Timing Cover/Water Pump Bolt Set - LTP-8501BHDW.

Main Cap Bolts

ARP makes a replacement set of bolts you can use to secure your main caps. The main thing I want to call out here is that there is a stud for the oil pump pickup that does not come in the ARP kit. Canton Racing sells a stud made for them by ARP and the part number is: 20-950. Use this in conjunction with the ARP bolt kit and you’re golden.

Connecting Rod Bolts:

I strongly recommend replacing the connecting rod bolts with ARP bolts. ARP has standard connecting rod bolts and Wave-Loc replacement bolts. The Wave-Loc bolts are their premium rod bolts. I’ll leave it to you to look up the part number. I just wanted to call attention to the two options you have. From what I remember, these were reasonably priced.

Header Bolts:

I’ll be touching on headers directly in a future post, but with regards to the header bolts, before ordering header bolts, you need to measure the depth of the bolt hole and the thickness of the header flange to determine how long your header bolts need to be.

I’ve observed that SBF header bolts usually are sold with an Under Head Length (UHL) of 3/4”. However, if you measure the depth of the holes the bolts will be going in along with the thickness of the header flange, sometimes, it will exceed an inch. What I am getting at is you should order the proper length head bolts instead of one size fits all. If your measurement is an inch or more, order the 1 inch long bolts. If it is shorter than an inch, then go with the 3/4" bolts. More thread contact = a more secure fit.

Even if your headers came with bolts, you should still measure it. The way I measure mine is I use two of the regular 3/4" bolts and secure the header to the head. Then I stick one of those red brake cleaner/carb cleaner straws in a few of the holes to see how deep it is and measure it. On my truck, it came out to be over an inch.

Hopefully, this makes sense. I’ll leave some part numbers to consider:

1) ARP Header Bolts | 3/4" UHL | ARP 100-1108 | 16 Pieces

2) ARP Header Bolts | 1" UHL | ARP 100-1110 | 16 Pieces

Valve Cover Bolts – If you need or want to replace your bolts, you can use the same measuring trick I mentioned above for header bolts and buy the Grade 8 flanged bolts made by Dorman. These are at parts stores everywhere. Just carry a bolt with you.

Flywheel/Flexplate Bolts – ARP makes these bolts and I think it’s cheap insurance. Make sure you use thread sealant on these bolts or you will be crying the blues when you see a drip from the rear main area.

Harmonic Balancer Bolt – ARP makes one of these with a provision for a 1/2" socket so that you can rotate the engine. A worthwhile investment in my opinion.

For the parts that I’m not leaving part numbers for, I feel like these are easy enough for you to look up on your own in case you are perhaps asking yourself why didn’t I leave a part number for everything. I just wanted to call attention to certain parts for certain reasons.

Hopefully this all make sense. There’s still plenty more left to cover.

More more more! Lets hear about exhaust :)

This thread is awesome.

Sweet

It is great info. I been looking for a thread like this one for about 2 months, with the parts # etc. I been reading so many threads but they just got me confuse cause they dont have parts # or dont explain as well as QDEEZIE . Im planning to get me some GT40 heads for my new/old truck and now I know about the parts I need and more stuff.
I got tire of California emissions so I getting me a 70-75 F100 and putting a motor /transmission from a 95-96 F150 with GT40 heads.

Again this is a great thread thank you for all the info. QDEEZIE

I'll be adding lots more info to this thread. I've just been so occupied over the past few weeks with work.

My next two segments will cover the oiling system and the rotating assembly.

+ 1 on being tired of California emissions. I just want to move out of this crazy state.

Oiling System
 

Regarding the oiling system, this is a very straightforward system for the most part and I will cover the components that you should consider when building your engine.

Oil Pump
Regarding the oil pump, a stock oil pump is all you need. It provides more than sufficient oiling for your engine provided you have taken the time to verify proper bearing clearances. Also, it doesn’t accelerate wear on your distributor and camshaft gear as indicated below with the HV pump.

A high volume oil pump will not provide any extra benefits and is made for applications with wide bearing clearances. Also, it creates extra wear on the distributor gear/camshaft gear due to the extra demand it places on these parts.

So, keep it simple and stick with a stock oil pump. There is no advantage going with a HV Oil Pump for the build that I’m laying out.

Oil Pump Gaskets
Make sure you don’t miss this. There is a paper gasket that goes between the oil pump and the block and another one that goes between the oil pump and pickup.

Oil Pump Shaft
ARP makes a shaft that works very well as a no fuss stock replacement. This is a straightforward part that I won’t spend much time on. The main thing with this is that the clip on top of the shaft sometimes keeps the distributor from fully seating. All you need to do is remove the rotor button off the distributor and tap the distributor with a mallet. This will slide the clip down and make your distributor seat. You might experience this on a standard replacement shaft as well if the distributor doesn’t sit in the block all the way. This is a one-time thing and the distributor will sit properly moving forward. The ARP oil pump shaft is cheap insurance for your oiling system.

Oil Pump Bolts
ARP makes replacement bolts for the oil pump to engine and the oil pump to oil pump pickup. This is very cheap insurance and you should pick up a set.

Oil Galley Plugs
When reassembling your engine, you should inspect your engine to ensure that the machine shop did not neglect to install all of the oil galley plugs. The most common one that gets missed is under the intake in the back area. If you have to install one, you should be able to do it with a socket, a hammer and some RTV. Better yet, inspect it before it leaves the machine shop.

Front Oil Galley Plug Upgrade
There are three oil galley plugs that are pressed in in the front of the block near the distributor hole. A common upgrade is to have these holes threaded and screw in threaded hex head inserts so that they don’t fall out or seep oil. Another common upgrade is to drill a pinhole in the front oil galley plug that sits behind the distributor gear so that it sprays oil directly on the distributor gear. These are upgrades that you might want to talk to your machine shop about or do more research before moving forward with doing.

Rotating Assembly
 

Regarding the rotating assembly, I will cover this by component and circle back and cover it as a unit.

Pistons
The truck 302 comes with cast pistons that require a 1.5mm/1.5mm/3.0mm ring pack. To be honest, this is a pretty good sized ring pack. It is thin, so it reduces drag that the older, larger ring packs used to have. The bad thing about it is these rings aren’t cheap, but you should already know that you have to pay to play in the performance world. I’ll get into rings in a second, but I want to focus on pistons.

Cast Pistons aren’t bad at all and can and have been used with many performance builds. So, if budget is a factor, you could go with stock replacement cast pistons.

For those that are trying to go with an upgrade, you have two options for upgrades: Hypereutectic and Forged. To be honest, Forged is not necessary unless you’re planning nitrous or a supercharger. It’s overkill is what I’m saying. Hypereutectic is a good balance because it allows for tighter clearances and depending on the piston you select, it might be lighter than the cast pistons it’s replacing.

The other factor to consider when buying pistons is the thickness of the ring pack. I see lots of aftermarket pistons that are cheaper, but have larger ring packs. You want to go with either the same sized ring pack or one that’s a bit thinner such as 1/16” | 1/16” | 3/16”. There is a limit to how thin you should go on street engines (the number slips my mind at the moment), but there are some options when going thinner. Basically the concept here is the thinner the ring pack, the less drag the engine has internally.

Lastly, your pistons have nearly everything to do with your compression ratio and piston to valve clearance. In my opinion, on these engines, you shouldn’t exceed a 9.5:1 compression if you’re not wanting to use 89 or 91/93 gas. It is my belief that trucks should run on 87, but that’s just my opinion. Also, ensure your pistons have valve reliefs. Leave the flat top/no relief stuff on the 86 Mustangs. I personally run a flattop with two valve reliefs and 1/16 – 1/16 – 3/16 rings. The valves cleared by a mile when I clayed it.

Piston Rings
This is not the part to cheap out on. You should go with Moly rings or better. Cast rings (in my opinion) are not built for engines that last hundreds of thousands of miles. Also, stick with a reputable brand such as Hastings, Mahle-Clevite or Perfect Circle when it comes to rings.

Also, you need to check your piston ring end gap before installing the rings on the pistons. This is a critical step that should not be overlooked. On a N/A engine, the specs laid out in a manual such as Haynes should be sufficient. If you’re using the zero gap rings, you should go by the manufacturer’s instructions or contact an experienced engine builder with regards to the ring gap for YOUR application. In my opinion, for this build, the zero gap stuff is overkill.

Connecting Rods
Stock connecting rods should be good for any engine that lives under 6000 RPMs, so with this being said, you’ll be reusing your stock rods, but take them to the machine shop so that they can be cleaned, resized and all of that good stuff.

Connecting Rod Bolts
You will have a ticking time bomb (in my opinion) if you don’t invest the money here in replacing the bolts. ARP makes standard and Wave-Loc bolts that you can use.

Crankshaft
This is a part that needs to go to the machine shop to check the journal size and be machined if necessary. The main thing to call out here is that if the rear main journal has a groove worn into it, you’ll need to install a rear main crankshaft sleeve. Same concept as with the harmonic balancer sleeve. If you do install a rear main crankshaft sleeve, do NOT use a Teflon rear main seal. Use plain rubber. Otherwise, you’ll be followin’ the drip!

Main Bearings
The main thing here is use a reputable brand (Clevite, Federal Mogul, King, etc.) and check the clearances. Make sure you lube the bearings after measuring the clearances. There are lubricants specifically for this. I have heard of some people using the STP engine treatment with great results.

Rod Bearings
Same as main bearings main thing here is use a reputable brand (Clevite, Federal Mogul, King, etc.) and check the clearances. Make sure you lube the bearings after measuring the clearances. There are lubricants specifically for this. I have heard of some people using the STP engine treatment with great results.

Engine Rotating Assembly – As a whole
Once you’ve decided on your harmonic balancer, flywheel/flexplate, pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft, make sure you get this assembly balanced at the machine shop. This ensures that everything is in whack and that no irregular wear or engine vibrations occur. Balancing is an absolute necessity in my book.

Exhaust
 

Exhaust
I won’t cover the entire exhaust system, because exhaust is one of those things that leaves the door open for debate and I want to avoid that with this thread. Maybe in a different thread we can discuss exhaust.

However, I will say this about the exhaust. If you are using headers, you absolutely must check the flange on a flat surface (such as a kitchen table, counter top or even a garage floor) to ensure the surface is true. I don’t know exactly what the reason is, but lots of header manufacturers send their products out the door and the surface is not true.

If your surface is not true, you can either belt sand it true or take it to a machine shop and let them machine the surface so that it is true. Or send it back for a replacement.

A surface that is not true is the most common source of leaks between the header and the engine and the majority of people don’t even know it. The last set of headers I bought literally wobbled when I laid the flange on a flat surface. It was at least 1/8” of play. I had them machined flat and no leaks to speak of.

Bump. I'll be covering machine shop work in my next segment when I get a free second.

il help you out with that...

1) Do not cheap out.
2) You get what you pay for.

:thumbsup: :)

Lol!!!

3) All machine shops aren't created equal!

Subscribing to this thread!!

I'm in!
 

I'm doing this rebuild on a 302 that I'm either getting out of the jy, off of CL, or ebay. This is an awesome thread and going to be my 2015 project. If I could, I'd rebuild the motor I have in the truck because it runs pretty good - just leaks oil and water which I'm pretty confident are from the oil pan gasket and water pump. I just don't want to give up driving my truck while I rebuild the engine. Kind of sucks because it would be cool to keep the original motor. I can't afford all of the parts at once so really am stuck with a pretty long project. I've even thought of getting a decent block and getting it running well enough to swap it out with the original motor and swapping them back when I'm done. That's just a pipe dream though.

Some people might say if the existing engine is running strong why not just tweak it . . . that's a good question. I just want the satisfaction of doing this and I want my truck to be as strong as reasonable because I really like it and want to enjoy it for a long time. It's not just a tool to get from A to B - it's something I thoroughly enjoy owning and driving and there's not another truck year/make/model that I'd rather have. Just sucks that my insurance won't give me full coverage because of the age. I may be changing carriers.

You know the crazy thing is that this big ole truck seems to be hitting it's stride at 60 MPH and above. I don't dog it or hammer it, but I can be cruising to work and before I know it I'm going 80 and just humming along . . . sometimes it's even pegged and I'm like "o crap!". I'm not trying to tear it up and it doesn't miss a beat or even act like it doesn't like it. At 75 I'm in the 2200 rpm range and 80 seems to be a little under 2500. At least that's what I recall - not like I write it down, so I may be off about the 80 rpm - but I know 75 is pretty close to 2200. Oh yeah, the cruise doesn't work . . .

I still have not gotten around to covering the machine shop portion in depth, because time has been quite limited for me to sit down and give a writeup with the necessary detail.

However, one thing I would like to add that is camshaft related.

For the 94-96 Mass Air owners or previous year owners that have converted to Mass Air, I still recommend a custom cam, but if you want to go with an off the shelf camshaft, Comp Cams 35-510-8 is a wonderful option.

Only thing with this cam is with the higher lift it has, you might have to go with roller rocker arms or some sort of aftermarket rocker arm that has the necessary slot clearance for this cam in the event the stock rocker arms bind due to the higher lift.

Why would you want the cast iron gt40 heads over the aluminum?

Cost. I installed GT40 heads for about $600, that includes the extras. By the time you get all the extras for aluminum heads, you'll at least spend $1500 and that's on the low side.

Where did you get your heads from?

And thanks for the response

From the U Pull It type wrecking yard, $100. Out of a 96 Explorer. The heads don't have the air ports but it's easy to leave the emissions equipment hooked up, just when air pump pushes to the heads it no longer actually does anything. Not a big deal per my understanding air only goes to the head during cold operation. Pushrods, lifters,rockers and valve covers can be re used. The rockers remain self adjusting with no clearance issues or fine tuning for the less mechanically adapt. The only aluminum heads that would swap as simple are FR, they would be the next step up price wise. The GT40p would require headers.

Bump
 

Bump and subscribing!

Hopefully since my workload at the job has lightened up some, I'll be able to complete my final writeups soon.

However, I wanted to provide some part numbers and info for clarity since I might have confused a few individuals.

Regarding the IAC Bypass, it is a plate, not the actual IAC valve itself. The plate is mounted between the IAC valve and the throttle body. This allows more air into the engine at idle which eliminates the problem of having a surge at idle and otherwise good drivability outside of idle.

Two part numbers are:
Tomco: 8491
Ford: F2PZ-9F939-A

Edit: Normally, this is definitely required when upgrading the cam (in my opinion).

However, sometimes depending on your setup, you can do something as simple as upgrade the exhaust and your engine will surge at idle. This part will serve as the fix for that surging idle in this scenario as well.

A bit of info for those looking to build 300+hp 5.0L/302s
 

When u say to replace the tranny,do we need to fully replace it? Or just upgrade the gears and clutch assembly?

My transmission post was geared more so towards automatic transmissions, but I'd say to research your manual transmission to see what is the maximum torque rating for it. If it's not rated to I'd say about 400 ft/lbs torque, you might want to upgrade at least the gears. With regards to the clutch, just go with a quality brand and you should be ok.

I promised months ago that I’d give a segment on machine shops and here it is.

Rule #1 when dealing with machine shops is that all machine shops are not created equal. What I mean by this is that there are some services that you’ll request such as line honing that some shops will try to talk you out of.

Also, there are lots of machine shops that won’t clean your parts. They will literally do the work you requested and pass your part right back over to you. Once upon a time, I took a set of heads to a machine shop to have new valve springs installed, a valve job and to get the heads resurfaced. That is literally what they did. The outer surface of the heads was still rusty and they didn’t even clean the valve cover mating surface. I'm used to my heads (and every single engine part for that matter) looking brand new when I get them back.

With this being said, if you are new to a machine shop, ask to look at some of their finished products such as engine blocks and heads prior to dropping your stuff off. If the part looks so clean you could eat off of it, you’ve probably found a good machine shop.

Sometimes you might even have to split work up between machine shops.

Some may do awesome head work, but may not have the tooling to do what you need for your block.

With that being said, here are a few things you should have consider having done:

1) Hone or bore cylinders. If your cylinders have to be bored, you will need to bring the pistons and connecting rods that you’ll be using to the machine shop with you. This way, they can bore it to exact tolerances.

2) Have connecting rods reconditioned (I normally let them determine if they need anything done) and install rod bolts.

3) Press pistons onto connecting rods.

4) Check crankshaft journals and if necessary, have it machined so that you can use undersized bearings.

5) Balance rotating assembly.

6) On your heads (if reusing heads): valve job, new valve stem seals, new springs, valve guides, check and possibly resurface heads. I normally provide my own valve stem seals and springs. This way, I know exactly what I’m working with.

7) Line hone block: This is one that lots of machine shops will attempt to talk you out of for some reason. This will ensure that there is no binding on the crankshaft. If they check it and it is found that a line hone is not needed, that is one thing, but to not do it and not check is another. This could make your crankshaft bind once you torque it down. After you torque your crankshaft down, see how freely it spins. If it spins freely, you’re in business. If it doesn’t, pull it out and take the block back to the machine shop. Also, ensure you’re installing the main caps with the arrows facing forward. If you don’t, your crankshaft will most certainly bind up.

8) Install camshaft bearings. I normally buy my own and provide it to them.

9) Install expansion (freeze) and oil galley plugs. I normally buy my own and provide it to them.

10) After you get your engine block back from the machine shop, wash it out on your own before installing any parts. I literally take my engine block to a car wash to clean it with the pressure washer. After I'm done pressure washing, I spray the bores down with penetrating oil afterwards to ensure that there is no rust that will generate to impact piston ring sealing. I also blow the block off really good with my air blow gun nozzle attachment on my air compressor. I'm sure there's some YouTube videos and threads on other forums about this topic.

As I mentioned earlier, it wouldn’t be a bad idea if you bought a tap and cleaned the threads on your engine block yourself prior to taking it to the machine shop. This includes timing cover threads, cylinder head thread and main cap threads. ARP makes a dedicated tap to clean threads, but me being cheap, I use a regular tap and penetrating oil to clean out the threads.

Going back to what I said earlier about all machine shops not being created equal, this is a big deal. I am in the process of looking for a local worthwhile machine shop (you’d think it would be easy seeing that I’m in the NASCAR capital), but as of right now, I drive 200 miles to the machine shop I know and trust. I’ve tried a few local ones and I was disappointed. This is not me being overly peculiar, it’s just me wanting the work I’m paying for done right. I’ve also heard of other guys driving even further than I do to a machine shop that they trust.

Two final things I'd like to add. 1) Before you take the engine block to the machine shop, if the engine is greasy and dirty, take it somewhere like a car wash and clean it up some. It makes life a lot easier and less dirty when it comes to transporting it to the machine shop. 2) Find out how long the machine shop's waiting list is. It would suck to drop your engine block off and expect it back in a few weeks, when they have a 6 or 9 month backlog that you didn't know about. Really good machine shops are known to have backlogs, so take this into consideration.

rebuit 302
 

Hi everyone , I just joined. I love this thread about upgrading a 302.
My question is this. I am in need of a engine replacement. when i look around for crate motors all i find are high horsepower engines, All i really want to do is improve the engine that i have. Then i found your thread, It is exactly the kind of engine I'm looking for. Unfortunately i have never tinkered that deep into a engine and I'm very nervous even trying to attempt the build.
So, Is there a crate motor out there that falls into the guidelines that you describe in your thread?
Any help would be useful.
Thank you
1996 f150 4x4

Bump.

My response is way late, but I'd say search online and look at maybe a website such as Fordstrokers.com or order the parts I've mentioned in this thread and see what your local machine shop can do.

I say if lack of mechanical experience is what's holding you up from upgrading your engine, I would just buy the parts and pay a mechanic to install them. It would probably still be cheaper than a crate motor.

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything on exhaust manifold/header gaskets. What do you recommend?

^^^^If you're using headers, pay close attention to what I have above with regards to the surface of the header or you're going to have leaks.

As for brands of gasket, personally, it depends on the application. If you are going with a stock or GT40 (or GT40p) head, a regular Fel-Pro gasket should be sufficient.

If you have an aftermarket head or want a good performance gasket for your headers, I feel like you can't go wrong with Mr. Gasket 5930. That is assuming you have square port headers. I'm using these with no leaks to report.

Basically, a stock replacement or the aforementioned Mr. Gasket are good choices, but once again, if you are using headers, the surface of the headers must be true or you're going to have leaks.

Hope this helps.

I have these headers http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/89358/10002/-1
Haven't installed yet, and they came with gaskets, just wondering if I should use them or not. They seem high quality with 3/8" flanges, but haven't checked them for straightness yet.

I generally don't use the gaskets that come with headers because they are that cheap paper type gasket.

thank you for creating this post

I think my build falls into the 300 + club
I've got a 302 gt40p heads long tube headers and the e303 cam. 24lb injectors feed it every thing else is stock. To include the 308 gears in the rear end. Today I just ran a 1/4 to see what it would do. Surprising it ran 13.7 at 84.76 mph

Wow! Wish I'd've found this a few months ago when I did my engine swap.

As a side note about cleaning bolt holes.... using a tap is not a bad idea, but they are designed to cut metal and, if you're not careful, you can remove more than just surface rust and crud.

What I did (not my idea, but can't remember where i saw it) is take properly sized bolts (such as the ones you are removing) and Dremel-cut two grooves down the threads. One cut on one side, one directly opposite (more or less). Do this such that the edge of the cut feels sharp. Make one of these for each size bolt hole. Run these bolts in and out of the hole and it will remove the surface crud without cutting into the metal. Then air the hole out to remove the debris.

Search for an image of a thread chaser and you'll get the idea. No need to buy them when you probably have usable bolts and a Dremel lying around anyway.

I am thinking about going with the Brodix 1051000 Heads and the Comp Cams 35-512-8 cam. is this a good combo and will I have clearance problems with the stock pistons?
Great Info, BUMP!!!

My son just picked up a 92 F-150. Sadly the old 302 had a rod start knocking, so this write up is perfect for getting us in the right direction. Definitely wanted to wake it up, as you said the stock cam is terrible. Thanks for the write up. Interested on header thoughts. Long tube is best but any of them allow you to replace the starter without having to remove the header each time?

I have these and did replace my starter with no issues. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/89358/10002/-1

Anyone use this Comp cam CCA-35-308-8 on a speed density (92-93)? Has a little more lift, .533"

I used these and they fit great and changing a starter was no problem.
http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...A2608A0A0.aspx

Computer question
 

With your suggested cam and head options, would the computer need a new profile to work properly?

Thanks, great write up!

Speed Density computers do not need modifications the profiles I've laid out. The only thing that you need to 100% do is ensure you get the IAC bypass plate I mentioned.

Appreciate you taking the time to do this write up.
this info is priceless.

I will be building a 302 for my 94 f150 4x4.

the only problem is I was in hurry when I bought a parts truck mainly for the bed,
but I ended up putting the 3.08 axles on it. not a good combo with 35" tires.
I still have the 3.55 axles but some issues with them. Ball joints, lockers, etc.. pretty wore out.

I've been driving mine with a blown head gasket for at least 50,000 miles as far as I know maybe more. the truck has over 300,000 miles I bought in 96 with 67,000 miles.
oil in the cooling system, coolant in the oil, now its leaking all over the ground. dip stick rusted in half. still runs great, but I need to rebuild it. I fear the block, and/or heads may be damaged so I plan on getting a short, or long block from a salvage.

If the block, and heads end up being ok, I may build a second one.

In my opinion, the best way to go is to find an engine block from a salvage yard, put it on an engine stand, build it over time and swap the engines over a weekend once it's done.

As a side note, you've just given me a really good idea for a really good addition to this thread.

Stay tuned.......

Header clearance
 

OK so I was changing my plugs the other day when I noticed that 2 of my plugs where very close to the headers, so close in fact that if I was to go with the Brodix 1051000 Heads I would not be able to access 3 of my plugs. this is due to the fact that there exaust ports are .5" higher on the head than stock heads.

I have PaceSetter long tube Headers and after doing some research I have found that these heads AFR 165cc SBF Renegade 20 Degree Street/Strip Heads 1399 will work best with the headers I have and are a direct out of the box replacement for my stock E7 heads. From what I have read on there web site they use the OEM mold from ford to cast there heads than machine them to there specs. They also CNC machine the intake and exaust runners/Ports and the combustion chambers. The exaust ports are in the same location as the OEM E7 heads so there will be no issiues with header clearance. I am going with the non emissions heads because I removed the air injection tube when I installed the headers. Hope this info helps.

I think that is the best idea.
and will be more fun that way.
Plus I can save money and spend it on quality parts.

I may go ahead and do a quick and dirty head gasket/valve job so I can keep going this summer. I have a 160 thermostat to keep it cold so all the coolant does'nt blow by, and out. probably why it has made it this far. Plus I keep the oil changed, and only add full 50/50 coolant (I mix my own from 100%), never just water. I do a proper flush every year.

I made a suggestion earlier that the best approach is to get an engine block out of a salvage yard or wherever and place it on an engine stand and build it over time. To be more specific, you need to get a ROLLER engine block. Usually 87-up engine blocks fit this requirement.

If buying an engine out of a non-F150 (or Bronco), here is what you will need to swap from the old engine over to the new engine block to make it a seamless transition:

• Lower Intake Manifold
• Timing Cover (include the Harmonic Balancer here as well)
• Valve Covers
• Oil Pan
• Exhaust Manifolds (if you aren't running headers)

A few minor things thing to note about this potential engine you'll be placing on the stand:

• Make sure it has been tapped for a knock sensor. If your truck has one and it is functioning, it's a nice feature to be able to carry this over. I believe some of the later 302 blocks might not be tapped for this. I have NOT confirmed this. It is just a suspicion that they might not have it.
  
• All oil pans are not created equal. Some aftermarket oil pans are smaller and use a different sized drain plug. Ask me how do I know. Be very careful about where you get your oil pan from or you'll have less oil capacity than the OEM pan. Do a side by side comparison of the old pan vs new pan if possible. I'd even go as far as to say fill them both up with water (prior to installing) to ensure they hold the same amount. Name brand oil pans tend to have OEM capacity. Internet no-name brand pans don't. The drain plug is a different size as well, so if you bought a magnetic drain plug, that won't work either. So, be careful and spend the extra money for name brand or OEM.

I have read this thread at least three times and I still learn new stuff each time. Good stuff.

Here's a question from a newbie - what do you recommend for a good engine stand?

Gt40 spark plugs
 

im working on a 1996 f150 5.0 I'm swapping my heads with gt40s with scorpion 1.6 lifters and I'm doing a 35-510-8 comp cam among some other things does any one know what spark plugs I need and what the gap should be?? Thanks

More than likely Autolite 104 or 764 (or the Motorcraft equivalent). I prefer 104. As for the gap, no good answer exists other than start out with your stock gap and increase it incrementally until you notice a decrease in performance, then back it down to the gap size that was best. Grab a notebook and write down your observations for each gap if necessary.

Harbor Freight sells engine stands. Whichever is best for your budget. All of the ones they sell will support the 302.

As for the bolts, use grade 8 bolts and hardened washers (if available) to secure your engine to the engine stand.

Perfect. qdeezie I appreciate all you are doing here.
and all you guys chiming in as well.
I should probably start a thread of my own so I don't clutter up your tutorial.

I found a 302 roller (Well I will need to verify this in person)
From a 1994 Bronco. So I'm assuming it's the same 302 roller in my 94 F150. (Hopefully)

I will be going to the yard tomorrow to pull this engine.
Is 275 bucks a good deal for complete oil pan to intake.
no accessories like alt, power steering etc...

As for the knock sensor, I'm not sure. but being same year I'm hoping it's the same.
It's located on the top rear of the block if I have the correct information.
I will look at mine tomorrow to see if it has one. and take my Chilton with me if I can still read it. the book is 22 years old, and i'm 44 so I will take my glasses too.

I have been eyeing the engine stands at harbor freight for about 2 years.
I'm getting the 1000 lb one for 59 bucks, and use a 20% off coupon.
Although I really liked the 2k lb one 125 bucks that folds up, but this engine will probably on the stand for a while.

If the trans is already pulled I will need some trans bolts to bolt it to the stand.
maybe I will steal my brothers from his truck since he is going with me.
he has the 4.9 with the same Mazda transmission

I'm really hoping it has the throtle body as mine sprung a leak a couple years ago I had to bypass the coolant port. I think it's just a freeze plug.

Also I haven't rebuilt an entire engine since my 1973 F150 or F100 with a 390 back in like 88'/89' I was 17, and my Grandpa was in Vegas so I used his garage, and was finishing up when he got home.
My uncle came in to check on me, and said "what the hell, do you know where all this stuff goes. I said I would figure it out. he said "OK"
Can't believe I did it. We didn't have internet, or youtube, we had haynes, and chilton, and the old guys in the parts store.

^^^When you pick up the engine and start working on it, please start a new thread and let us know how it goes! And $275 is a solid price I think.

OK, I made a thread, and have a story.
I'm irritated at this point.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/build-...50-4x4-374127/

Gt40 plugs
 

the motercraft plugs are sp493

Gt40 head gasket
 

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...3d26c891e1.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...774dc55cf1.png
Iv got gt40 heads that have been o-ring cut what head gasket would you recomend?

It looks like this thread is pretty old but I'd like to continue it a little longer if the curator is still on here. I've got a similar vehicle that I'm building a motor for except my 1992 came with a 5.0 HO E4OD through 411 gears and I'm rebuilding a 1993 351W to install into the truck. In all the research I've done I cant seem to get a straight answer on the 351W. Id like to acheive 400 hp, I'm having the bottom end remain stock minus the cam. The block came with hydraulic flat tappet lifters but I'm not opposed to installing rollers if needed of course they will need the cross arm as the block is not a roller that I'm aware. Will the heads and cam grinds listed above work with a 351W build or is this a totally different build? Also will I need to change over to MAF (fiveologyracing.com has conversions) or can I stay with SD/MAP?

Thanks in advance

With the 351W, there are a few things to take into consideration. Keep in mind, I'm making some assumptions on your build seeing that you're on this particular thread.

1) If you are aiming for 400hp, you'll need at least 30lb injectors. You'll likely also need to upgrade your fuel pump as well.

2) You will need to upgrade your EFI intake to the Edelbrock upper and lower intake. The 351W factory lower intake doesn't flow all that well.

3) I think it would be your safest bet to go with a roller cam.

4) A custom cam is the only way to go with the 351W in my opinion. I could recommend an off the shelf cam, but the 351W has so much potential and you'd be cheating yourself.

5) With heads, you have a bit of flexibility. You can use the heads I've stated here, or you could go to the next level up, which would be AFR 185, Trick Flow 190, Trick Flow 205 or Brodix ST 5.0R.

5a) If it were me, I'd stick to the heads I listed for the 302 since you're keeping your displacement at 351W and that also keeps things simple for piston to valve clearance purposes. (AFR 165, Trick Flow 170 or Brodix ST 5.0).

6) As far as MAF vs SD is concerned, MAF is the most practical way to go, but the experimental geek in me says to see how would SD tolerate those larger injectors if your custom cam is putting out good vacuum before switching over to MAF. I wish there was more SD aftermarket support.

Hope this helps.

I am using much of the suggestions you've provided in this highly informative thread on my 1996 5.0 xlt 130,000m. I have purchased a custome ground cam, upgraded the springs on a set of gt40s with a trickflow kit with dampeners as well as shaved .001/valve job. I also purchase a cloyes hex-a-just timing chain, new head bolts, intake bolt, IAC bypass plate and all proper gaskets you recommend. Also the tranny (4r70w) is at the shop getting a rebuild and upgrade. I have about $500 more on my budget. My question is what do you recommend is the minimum I do other than what I have listed? Is there anyway I can check the bottom end with dismantling? I did a compression test rings are all still good. Here is my cams spec card.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...3566a12a4d.jpg

A few things come to mind:

1) Check the intake port size on your GT40 heads and the port size on your lower intake manifold where it mates to the head. Depending on how much smaller the intake is, you might stand to have it ported out to match the size of the GT40 intake ports. It's not an absolute must, but the more air you get to your heads, the better.

2) You could plastigauge your rod and main bearings to verify clearances are within spec. If your engine is still in the truck, you more than likely won't be able to do this. I wouldn't.

In the Ford truck enthusiast forum I've been informed that the 5.0 Liter EFI top half of the intake flows better than the 5.8 ( although they look the same to me) and that I'd be better off using the 5.0 liter top half mated to the 5.8 lower after port matching them together. Is this a plausible combination?

I haven't done enough work with the 5.8 to know if it's possible or plausible. If you're trying to make 400hp, the Edelbrock intake I mentioned earlier is the safest bet.

I've already ditched the thought of 400 hp for the time being, I've had the lower end rebuilt to stock specs minus bore and hone 010 installed Edelbrock performer plus cam and lifters ( non roller cam) and Edelbrock 60379 60cc aluminum heads ( emissions compliant) Have not ordered headers yet since I'd like to see how this motor responds to SD first before purchasing a MAF conversion. If I can get the current build to run decent on Speed density then I'll get Gibson emissions headers and leave it alone from there. If I have to convert to MAF to get it to run good then I'll most likely order and install a more aggressive roller cam and punch things up a bit more

So, in a sense, you're trying to put together something that's better than stock without breaking the bank?

Oil pump/ timing gears
 

so I'm just about to wrap up my engine rebuild and I have two questions Iv rebuilt a 1996 f150 5.0 with 200,000 on it. Every thing was working properly when I tore it down and no excessive wear was found I'm obviously replacing my timing chain but would you suggest I replace the timing gears as well? They look fine at first glance. Also how important is it to replace the oil pump? Any ones opinion please weigh in. Like I said there wasn't a problem with it to begin with so I wasn't sure.

Get yourself a heavy duty timing set with .250 rollers. That reduces the possibility of stretch over the years. Do a Google search for 'SBF Timing Set .250 Rollers' and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Regarding the oil pump, it's too cheap not to replace.

qdeezie I just became active on the forums here again and it warms my heart to see it still active and the love for old ford trucks! and I'd like to let you know I went back through this thread a few times and taken your advice on my recent engine build, which I talked about in my build thread. Like for you to check it out sir. I have to give you some credit for inspiring me to make it happen. Took me a couple years but the truck is close to being how I always dreamed. I feel the advice you give in this thread is great and everyone should be thankful all this info is just free to anyone with internet access. Lol

Roller rocker adjustment?
 

Ok so here's the problem I'm haveing has anyone heard of it? My build is a 96 f150 5.0 4wd. (4r70w auto just rebuilt and strengthened) gt40 ringed heads trickflow springs w/dampeners scorpion roller rocker 1.6 ratio and comp cam hi-tec hardened push rods. Comp cam extreme energy 35-510-8 hydroelectric roller cam, Bored 30 over with hypereutectic pistons all new lower end barrings, hardened oil pump shaft, idol air adjuster, k&n cold air intake so the problem is that after setting my rockers for the first time, the process I used was starting with the exhaust compressed on cylinder one I tightened the intake to 0 lash (where the push rod just barely quit moving) then turned it 1/2 turn tighter, tightend the polilock and then did exhaust. Continuing to turn the crank as I did all the others. They felt quite tight about 18lbs of pressure to accomplish the 1/2 turn. After everything was installed I had 0 compression indicating to me that the valves were hanging open so I backed the rockers of 1/4 turn this accomplished 60lbs of compression indicating I was going in the right direction. Next I backed them all off to lose and follow the proper sequence of adjustment I tightened them to 0 lash with no preload turn at all, tightened the polilock and tested again. This time I accomplished 120lbs of pressure. My question is has anyone heard of this problem and should I just run it like this?

So try as I might to find other cylinder heads mentioned in this thread, due to price, I always seem to come back around to these. A pair of Alum. Gt40's with valves, seats, and springs preinstalled.

The cam I was hoping to go with is the Crane 364211 but everywhere I've looked at the cam specs suggest valve float in the mid 4000's.

In my research I came upon a program to guess at power curves based on specs, I just guessed at the intake specs but they don't seem to effect it radically.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...308ae4762d.jpg

I haven't started buying parts yet, just felt is was time to check in for advice. More info on what I'm working with here.

Ok, these are Pro Comp heads. The general consensus on these is by the time you finish spending money on these heads to get them to where you need to be, you could have already bought another set that were already up to snuff and been done with it. The heads I listed in this thread are based on their track record in quite a few areas other than just power. If you're going to use cheap aluminum heads, buy them bare and build them with parts that you know to be reliable.

Fouling plugs
 

Ok so after my rebuild everything works well other then one issue. I'm fouling plugs and burning through oil about a quart every 700 miles. So far Iv got heavy blue smoke on start up but no other time and the plugs when I pull them especially the ones in the rear of the engine are real nasty. I removed the intake and replaced the valve seals on every valve and when I did that I noticed a lot of oil in my upper intake (I'm assuming from my pcv valve from how it connects) so I replaced the valve seals and pcv and still have the same problem. The plugs are fouled and Iv still got oil burning. Iv got 120psi in every cylinder so I don't think it can be rings. But I completely out of ideas??????

Did you do your rings the right way? Gaps not facing the same way? Also, how did you break it in?

qdeezie- quick question. If you get the GT40 heads can you just swap them out for what's stock? I've got a 94 and thinking of going with the GT40 heads, one of the cams you suggested, and opening up my exhaust. Looking to gain torque more then anything else for towing and roasting tires. Thanks!

It depends. If you're using 95-earlier heads and you're not porting your lower intake, yes. Direct swap.

If you are porting your lower intake, you'll need the Ford Racing intake manifold gasket that I mentioned earlier in the thread.

If you are using the 96-up heads, everything above applies, but you'll need to account for the smog ports not being present with regards to your local emissions laws and your emissions system in general.

I tend to look for the heads with the smog ports so that it's a straight up swap with minimal modifications.

Well I plan on probably getting rid of all of the smog stuff seeing as how I live in Montana and we have no emissions testing here :) I don't plan on doing any porting so it seems like it should be a pretty easy swap.

[QUOTE=qdeezie;5376616]Did you do your rings the right way? Gaps not facing the same way? Also, how did you break it in?[/QUOTE

yes I placed the gaps all different and broke it in at a high rpm

Just a point of clarification regarding a question that was raised earlier:

The knock sensor hole should be threaded on all engines that were installed in Broncos, vans, and F-series trucks.

The knock sensor hole will not be threaded or may not be there at all on car engines nor on Explorer engines. In fact, I have heard of car engine blocks that were cast such that the boss for the knock sensor was not fully formed.

The point is that you should check that area carefully.

Thanks qdeezie for this awesome thread! I have learned a lot by reading your posts, and then googling things that I wanted additional opinions on.

I have a 91 F150 with the 302. I have torn the engine down to confirm that I have the roller block(based on threaded holes in the block for a spider lifter retainer to be installed) but the engine currently has flat tappet cam/lifters and the 1-5-4 firing order.

The motor ran very good, if not great, before taking it apart, but just about every gasket was leaking. I figure that while I have everything apart to replace gaskets, I might as well replace some of the engine internals. The truck is only going to be used for hardware store runs, tailgating for the NASCAR races (I live in Charlotte too), and the occasional 2 hour road trip to pick car parts or whatever up from nearby cities. No racing, no muddin, no car shows, no need to impress anyone. Power isn't really my goal. I just want a slightly better-than-stock reliable rebuild that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The whole truck cost me $1300, I don't want to put $2000 into the motor if I can help it.

That being said, I was thinking about simply replacing the cam with a Comp Cam 31-255-5, which is a flat tappet cam and keeps the 1-5-4 firing order(according to the guy I talked to at Comp Cam). Only minimal amount of additional work will be required if I go this route, keeping the overall cost down.

Is there any reason you feel this route is 100% absolutely the wrong way to go? I can't find a real good reason to convert to the 1-3-7 firing order, or a good reason to go roller cam FOR MY SITUATION. I completely understand making those switches if dyno numbers is what your after, or rock crawling is what you're going to be doing.

Also, In a post from a while back, you said you drive 200 miles to a machine shop because there weren't any around Charlotte you trusted. Is that still the case? I'm in the process of looking for the right machine shop now.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

I have a few thoughts. The Comp Cams 31-255-5 is a safe option. I wouldn't bother upgrading valve springs if it were my build (and I knew I wouldn't be flogging it). Mainly to eliminate the prospect of wiping a lobe. It might not be right "by the book" but it is helps with keeping your cam up and going.

Another budget option would be to find a 94-96 F150 5.0 or 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer cam. It's a 1-3 roller cam, but it's a nice upgrade that can be done for pennies..... provided you can easily swap out your distributor gear or replace distributors.

I have not done any new builds recently, but I would suggest searching up in Mooresville for a good machine shop. That is what I plan to do for my next build. I know they do lots of racing related stuff up that way, so they can't all be bad.

Thanks for the quick reply! Could you elaborate a little on your lobe wiping concern? Are you saying that new valve springs could cause the tappets to bang against the cam and damage it, and older springs are less springy, and therefore likely wont cause the same damage?

Also, I'd like to hear your explanation as to why changing the fuel injector firing order isn't needed if changing the spark firing order. I've read other people's opinions on some other threads, but didn't see you address this when reading this thread. That's my biggest concern with the possibility of changing firing order.

Your suggestion on the new vs old springs is exactly what I think when dealing with flat tappet camshafts since motor oil isn't what it was back in '91. You may be ok using regular motor oil and not have it wipe out a lobe, but there is a risk. If you go with stiffer springs, you're going to need to run at least a diesel oil if not a specialized oil because there are variables that you don't know with regards to your lubrication needs.

As for injector wiring, it's bank fire and the wiring is the exact same as the speed density 351W and 5.0HO. Pull up an injector wiring diagram of these two engines and your engine and you will see that the wiring is the exact same. Once you see the diagram, it will make sense. It fires the same injectors at the same time on all of these engines. It works differently from sequential injection on the mass air engines.

One great thread! I have read this twice in the last 6 months. qdeezie, you and I think alike about the purpose of a truck and I found confirmation of many of my ideas here. I came looking for part numbers and the little tricks that cost money and extra work to learn. Thanks for sharing your and other's hard-earned experience! I have condensed the thread into a shopping list.
I own 2 9th Gen trucks and bought 1 for my Son too; all 3 are 302/AOD RWD XLT Long Beds. A 93 XLT is my daily truck, a 92 is a donor, and I use my 2014 STX for parts running only!
The daily has 178,xxx miles while the 92 parts truck has a 70,xxx. The engine is getting the once over from top to bottom before I swap it in, looking at mild (<350hp) power but more torque. I am wanting Trick Flow 170cc heads but sense and scarce $$ has me searching for GT40s, my Brother suggests a Comp Hi Energy cam that exceeds your suggested duration (260*), and I plan to re-ring the pistons. I plan to call Comp Cams to discuss my torque hopes.
A question about slushboxes:
What is the upgrade build for an AOD? Adding twice the power to the factory Smogger's 174hp is a leap forward. I want the AOD to handle it and the torque I seek to gain.

For the AOD, this might sound like a strange suggestion, but the Mustang crowd has a really nice upgrade (I can't think of it for the life of me at the moment) for the AOD that I think would be sufficient for your truck. If I think of it, I will circle back and let you know.

Hey check out this youtube channel. some info in the 96 ford f150
 

As Loco Laptop indicated, don't reuse head bolts. They've already been torqued to their max. Reusing will give you false torque reading and may possibly break during torquing.

So I changed my mind since posting a month ago. I've decided to upgrade my '91 engine from a flat tappet cam and 1-5-4 firing order to a roller cam (comp cam 35-512-8) and 1-3-7 firing order. As stated in the first post, the distributor gear needs to be addressed. I'm a little confused with all of the options, and my setup is no longer factory, so no one at a parts store is going to be any help.
I guess I am just trying to confirm that the distributor doesn't care what the firing order is. What I mean that is, can I buy a distributor from an auto parts store that is listed for a '91 F150 with a 302 (which from factory is intended to be used with 1-5-4 firing order), put a steel gear on it, and then just run the plug wires to the appropriate cylinders for the 1-3-7 firing order?
Or should I buy a distributor listed for a truck that has the 1-3-7 firing order from the factory, like the '91 351W, and make sure that distributor has a steel gear on it?
From my research, the answer is: buy a distributor listed for a '91 and put a steel gear on it and it will work perfect for the 1-3-7 firing order.

BTW qdeezie, I'm using a machine shop in Mooresville called G Engineering. The owner Kendall is really friendly, very knowledgeable, and has an early 90's F-150 as one of his personal vehicles. He showed me around his shop and some of the race engines he builds, and everything looks great. I'll update once I get my parts back from him.

Get Comp Cams to custom grind the 35-512-8 in the 1-5-4 firing order. I remember you had concerns about it and that would eliminate all of your concerns.

As for the distributor, get one for a 1986-1990 Lincoln Town Car with the 5.0L. It has been the steel gear and proper ignition module setup. Double check the manufacturer's part number to make sure it has the steel gear, though!

For what it's worth, I used the Richporter FD17. I think they are now owned by Spectra Premium, but the part number should be the same.

Ok, so here's what I've found. When I go Autozone or OReilly's website, and look up a distributor for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car w/5.0, a distributor for a 1991 F150 w/5.0, and a distributor for a 1991 Ford Mustang w/5.0, the same two options come up. One has a steel gear(FD17) and the other has a cast iron gear(FD04). So I don't think the distributor cares what firing order of the engine is. the only difference would be do you need a steel gear or not.

No, the distributor doesn't care about the firing order.