Not sure what's happened but Saturday swapped in new driver door window motor and all was fine until today

Goes down fine but about half way back up starts clunking / balking and stops like it's bound up or something. With assist from me pushing up on the bottom of the window frame I can get it to travel all the way up but it's making a lot of awful noises

I've backed off the screws holding the motor in a little thinking the gears mesh would adjust itself but no joy

Has the regulator failed now? Shoot, Amazon has the complete assy with motor and regulator for same $40 I paid for just the motor last week

Any of you experts experienced this? Maybe just needs lube where gears mesh?

Any insight greatly appreciated...

 

Well, the first thing that jumps out is $40 - you can't expect much when you buy the cheapest crap available. Getting more for the same price is even worse. The best parts available (even at this age) are the originals, so the longer you keep them, the better the truck will behave. Do you still have the original motor? What exactly was wrong with it? There is no "gear mesh" adjustment. This page explains a lot of how the doors work, including the PW system:

(click this text)

 

Steve,
Please point me to where I can obtain oem power window motor - I've been looking...

The outer seal by the door window was toast, and the motor was rusted beyond repair, 12 volts did not move it. The seal and the motor both replaced but now this

Regulator and motor both out now - with a little hacksawing on the plastic case of the motor it now actually fits as it should to the regulator unfortunately the small plastic spacers under the motor cover were displaced

Re-assembled the whole mess and it works out side the door but I'm hesitant to reuse the motor now

 

Every junkyard is loaded with OE parts, and they're often the best available. I shop mine frequently, and install those parts (after inspection, cleaning, restoration, adjustment, & repair as needed) on my trucks, which all run VERY well & reliably.




OEM means the COMPANY (M is for manufacturer) that made the parts for the assembly line - not the parts themselves. I don't remember offhand which company made the original window motors for these trucks, but there could have been several, and there's no guarantee that any of them are still in the 12V motor business 30+ years later. But even if they are, they don't necessarily still make motors for these antique trucks. And even if they do, they don't necessarily make them exactly the same way. Case in point: Siemens made the blower motor, and still makes them for these trucks, but the new motor isn't identical to the original.

If the previous motor didn't run when 12V was applied, then that's a GOOD reason to replace it. Rust alone is not. And a failed window seal isn't the cause of the motor failing - the motor is sealed within itself sufficiently to be exposed to rain for years without any effect.

If you posted pics of what you're talking about showing what you did, I might have some useful suggestions. But I don't follow what you're describing just in text.