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Any reason to replace pitman arm?

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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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Default Any reason to replace pitman arm?

I'm about to order a new steering gear box from amazon and was wondering if it is ever necessary to replace the pitman arm as well. Reading online it seems to be a non-wearable part, but I'd rather order it online if I need it and save $$$. I've heard that getting that pitman arm off can be a real PITA.

Can the steering box come out with the pitman arm still attached? Not having to rent the tools to pull the pitman might just sway me to just order it and not have to deal with pulling it.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 06:24 PM
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No, pitman arms don't usually wear. But you can buy a pitman arm puller pretty cheap. If you're not using it on a daily basis you don't need an expensive one.
I'd suggest a tie rod removal too - the pickle fork type work ok but they screw up the rubbers on the tie rods, better to take them off nicely if you're planning to re use them.
The pitman arm can come off with the steering box - a new piman arm or a p/a puller won't be a lot different in price.l
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 09:19 AM
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Before ordering the box I adjusted the screw on top of the steering box and it took out about 1/2 of the play in the steering. Probably turned it 1/4 of a turn, kind of nervous to go any farther. It definitely helped the free play in the steering but it did not help my problem of the wheel not naturally returning to center - it drifts, wanders, whatever you want to call it. Everything on the front end has been replaced in the last 6 months (ball joints, tie rods, shocks, springs, all bushings except axle pivot bushings) and it just got aligned to spec within the last month.

I know I am going to need to order a new box at some point, but I am also wondering if a steering stabilizer might help the center return problem?
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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Sounds more like improper alignment (not enough toe -in), or crappy tires. Been there.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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Tires are solid - they are old (2007-ish) but they have really good tread. They were studded tires that were never getting used so I pulled the studs out and decided to use them in lieu of buying new tires.

Just took a look at the aligmnent specs and sure enough, the shop didn't set toe in at all - it's perfectly straight. I guess I need to crank on those adjusting sleeves a little eh?
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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Yeah, I usually put a mason's line all the way around the center of all 4 tires. With 1/8" spacers at the front of the front tires and the front and back of the rear tires.
Turn both sleeves evenly until the back of the front tires touch the string and I'm good.
You have to roll the truck back and forth (10') a few times without touching the brakes to unload the suspension.
Basically you want to end up with both front tires fighting each other a tiny bit to go in. If they're even or pointed out, one or the other keeps trying to pick a ditch.
Too much toe-in though and you're tearing off the outer edge of the tread - there's a nice balance in there somewhere.
I think the specs call for 1/8" toe-in - I like to set mine a little tighter 'cause to hell with the tires, I want the truck to go straight. lol.
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