Advice on Longevity
Hi all! Long time reader / researcher here. Finally pulled the trigger on a well kept (ish) 1996 F150 4x4 4.9 i6.
Im going to go over and restore the truck as much as possible however I want to keep this truck running as long as possible. It's got 155k Miles on it. I'm looking for items to pay special attention to, and replace with better upgrades etc. No so much looking for performance but just better equipment. I've got a little rust to work through in the door and fenders, I've got what seems like an axle seal leak, engine seems to run well as does 4x4. Transmission is auto, and seems okay for now. Engine starts and runs fine.
What can I look for to help keep the truck running longer other than typical maintenance?
What do you suggest as far as fluids and routine changes?
What stock parts should be replaced with modern / better upgrades (again not specific to performance just technical upgrades).
thanks in advance!!
Im going to go over and restore the truck as much as possible however I want to keep this truck running as long as possible. It's got 155k Miles on it. I'm looking for items to pay special attention to, and replace with better upgrades etc. No so much looking for performance but just better equipment. I've got a little rust to work through in the door and fenders, I've got what seems like an axle seal leak, engine seems to run well as does 4x4. Transmission is auto, and seems okay for now. Engine starts and runs fine.
What can I look for to help keep the truck running longer other than typical maintenance?
What do you suggest as far as fluids and routine changes?
What stock parts should be replaced with modern / better upgrades (again not specific to performance just technical upgrades).
thanks in advance!!
The 4.9 is pretty much bullet proof.. Just keep up with regular maintenance and the engine will be fine.I would do a pan drop or two of the transmission changing the filter as well. Rust will be the biggest problem if you are in the north and worn out front end parts.. Check for rusted out brake lines. Do oil changes, fuel filter, plugs, wires. cap and rotor. As far as the differential goes, I would only deal with leaks that can get on the brake linings. If the pinion dribbles a little, I would just keep it topped off unless it is a major leak. Mine has dribbled and sprayed an oil mist underneath. I haven't had to top it off in several years.It's too easy to mess the preload up resulting in a whining rear end.Enjoy your truck.
Last edited by raski; Aug 27, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
I'm a fan of Dex-cool and distilled water in the cooling system. Doesn't have to be Name brand, just extended life orange & meeting the standard. That at least arrests it where it is. Be advised that if you empty the cooling system it will need a burp, and in my experience that is accomplished by raising the front end at least a foot and squeezing the upper hose aggressively. More than one time I've messed with an automatic with that many miles on it, I would have been better off leaving it alone. Seems like if they are serviced regularly it is fine to continue it, if not they seem to be best undisturbed. BTW the '96 is as good as it got for the 4.9. Best fuel injection of the entire run. I do fix the pinion leaks, even on the farm truck, but I have a concrete driveway, and that just makes a mess of it.
Last edited by Eric Fullerton; Aug 27, 2017 at 08:40 AM.
Front -springs, shocks, ball joints, hub assembly. Might as well do rotors and pads/brake assembly.
Back- springs and shocks. Drum, pads, wheel cylinder, brake lines.
Electric Fan Conversion
Get a can of quick drying electric clean from walmart and everytime you remove a connector spray and brush male end, wipe, spray female and plug/unplug a few times. Mark connector so you dont repeat (sharpie or paint pen what I use)
Order an assortment box of fuses, like $10-12 for 100ct of various sizes from ebay or amazon, and replace them all. You could clean them but time vs cost of new isn't worth it to me.
Swap all the plastic Vacuum lines for silicone hose, best place is http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361.
I used like 24ft of 4mm line, you will have to pick up a 4way vacuum tee, or two 3 ways, but just like swapping plug wires (remove one, cut hose to fit and replace, repeat).
I disagree with tranny fluid swap unless truck has been sitting for extended time. Maybe just one round, not sure why but have seen quite a few trans go bad after full fluid swap (could have been going out before swap...hence swap) but that's personal decision.
Brake fluid change for sure. Everyone forgets about it.
Clean Throttle Body
Check bushings.
Read the thread about pulling codes, get in the habit of checking them every month or two. Quite a few codes that don't throw CEL but can prevent future catastrophes if dealt with as they appear instead of when they start causing problems.
Edit: Also clean up all your body grounds. Remove and clean both body and eyelet until shiny. Coat with dielectric grease to stave off corrosion.
Back- springs and shocks. Drum, pads, wheel cylinder, brake lines.
Electric Fan Conversion
Get a can of quick drying electric clean from walmart and everytime you remove a connector spray and brush male end, wipe, spray female and plug/unplug a few times. Mark connector so you dont repeat (sharpie or paint pen what I use)
Order an assortment box of fuses, like $10-12 for 100ct of various sizes from ebay or amazon, and replace them all. You could clean them but time vs cost of new isn't worth it to me.
Swap all the plastic Vacuum lines for silicone hose, best place is http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361.
I used like 24ft of 4mm line, you will have to pick up a 4way vacuum tee, or two 3 ways, but just like swapping plug wires (remove one, cut hose to fit and replace, repeat).
I disagree with tranny fluid swap unless truck has been sitting for extended time. Maybe just one round, not sure why but have seen quite a few trans go bad after full fluid swap (could have been going out before swap...hence swap) but that's personal decision.
Brake fluid change for sure. Everyone forgets about it.
Clean Throttle Body
Check bushings.
Read the thread about pulling codes, get in the habit of checking them every month or two. Quite a few codes that don't throw CEL but can prevent future catastrophes if dealt with as they appear instead of when they start causing problems.
Edit: Also clean up all your body grounds. Remove and clean both body and eyelet until shiny. Coat with dielectric grease to stave off corrosion.
Last edited by fltdriver; Aug 27, 2017 at 08:59 AM.
I agree with this as well. If you're really uncomfortable about what to use for the transmission, use Motorcraft Mercon V. Transmissions sometimes tend not to "like" certain aftermarket fluids, even if the fluid meets the manufacturer's specs. Not suggesting you use Motorcraft only, but a rule of thumb in general is to use a good quality fluid and you should be ok.






