So, after PM'ing a member (you know who you are! ), I've decided to try and advance my Cam timing on my 94' 5.0L. Having never done this before I'm guessing it goes something like this:

• Retard Ignition Timing by 8 degrees to compensate for advanced cam timing
• Bring engine up to #1 TDC
• Remove Timing set
• Install cam gear
• rotate crank until it matches the 4 degree advance keyway on the crank sprocket
• re-install timing set
• re-assemble as normal
• re-check/adjust ignition timing

Is it really that easy or am I missing something?

 

eh'?

read the directions...

I install the crank gear 1st..thats just me... on the crank gear you will see either letters or symbols on the crank keyway part...

you match the keyway symbol or letter to the one on the tooth...

so if A is 4 degrees Advance...find Keyway A and slide that on the crank using that keyway...the letter A on the tooth should be pointing UP....

now I actuall do Number 6...as in Number 1 BOTH Dots are UP...on Number 6 the camgear Dot is DOWN...that way they are closer to match up and even when using a straight edge thru the centers you can tell easier its lined up...

even with number 1 being up your eyes and can play tricks on you when straight edging....
then basically line the chain up with the cam gear and put it back on....

you just need to make sure to pay attention to the layout of the crank gear to get the marks that are for 4 degrees advance and use ONLY those 2 marks...one on the keyway and the other on the tooth...

simple delio....

and Yes it was me he PM'd...

lol when you get that done plan on a higher Stall converter and lift bars....why not go for broke and really get those 60 foot times down...lol

EDIT....just a FYI you should NOT need to move the crank much to line it up for 4 degrees...like 1/16 to 1/8...not even 1 tooth...more like half a tooth...1 tooth = 32 degrees...so if you move it 1 tooth or more your valve wont be happy at all or straight for that matter...

 

WOW! So I basically had it right! I do plan on putting some traction bars on and rebuilding the trans with a 2,500-3,000 stall converter but, that'll be the next project!

Thanks so much!

 

In response to your EDIT:

Really!?! The pictures of the (EDIT) crank gears with multiple keyways looks like it would rotate it several teeth on the sprocket!?!? If it's only 1 tooth, wouldn't the keyway be right next to the 0 degree mark? In the pictures it looks like the keyways are at about 6 o'clock for TDC and around 4 and 8 o'clock for 4 degrees advance and retard?

Am I still missing something? I certainly don't want to put my valves through my pistons! Just looking to wake er' up in the low end, I wanna be able to break the tires loose at least! Plus, I'm figuring that the stock chain is stretched and could be retarding the cam even more....

 

look at the crank gear more closely....it doesnt move but less than half a tooth...if you need to move it more than that you're doing it wrong...

think timing mark on the timing tab...you know how far 8 degrees is on the tab...you move it less than that...so not very much

 

http://www.cloyes.com/default.aspx?tabid=378

ok there is a Cloyes set...you see how the keyway is shaped like the mark on the tooth...?

so if the Triangle is 4 degrees Advance you use the Keyway with the traingle and then the triangle mark on the tooth right above it to line up with the Dot on the cam...

you notice how the mark is in correlation to the keyway...? the tooth stays the same but the location of the keyway moves....ones left of center and ones center and ones right of center of the tooth....

just match up the mark for 4 degrees...the one listed is Ford 302...94 F150

the crank keyway is ALWAY up on TDC for # 1 and #6 only difference is the cam gear location the mark UP on top towards the Intake manifold is #1 TDC and if the cam gear dot is down on the bottom pointing at the crank gear that #6 TDC...

I didnt mean to confuse you there...

 

K. I'm an idiot. Let's see if I've gotten this through my thick head. I have the cam sprocket "dot" pointing straight down. The crank sprocket dot pointing straigh up, on the stock timing set.

Remove the old timing set.

Put the cam sprocket on with the dot facing down (just like the stock one came off)

Install the crank sprocket with the keyway on the 0 or TDC and turn the crank until the 4 degree mark on the sprocket is now pointing straight up, instead of the 0 degree mark. (of course the chain is on already)

Like this picture shows:




You can see the 0 (zero) and the "A" and "R" marks on the crank sprocket. I assume for Advance and Retard (I'm retarded btw ) So on the picture above, the actual keyway will be in the 0 keyway slot but I'll turn the crank until the "A" is pointing directly upward toward the cam!?!?



EDIT: NEVER MIND! I got it! I noticed what your saying now. In the picture I posted there is an "A" Keyway and an "A" tooth that is slightly set off the keyway, that tooth is 4 degrees advanced compared to the 0 degree keyway where the keyway is directly below the tooth!!!

I got it! I got it!! Yeahhh meeeeee!!!!

 

NO...the keyway will be the A keyway for Advance...then use the A to line up to the dot...you see how close the A tooth is the the A keyway...? that only how much it gets moved very little...

Thats why there are 3 Keyways...you line that keyway and matching tooth up...

in this case put the cam gear on loose..meaning no bolt...

slide the crank gear on with the A keyway... then line up the A on the tooth with the Dot on the cam gear...then slide the cam gear off an put the chain on and finish it up...

 

It's amazing to me that, that little bit could make such a huge difference. Is it going to be a very noticable difference at 4 degrees or should I go for the gusto and go 8 degrees advanced? I don't know how the stock cam is ground but, from what I've read Ford grinds a minimum of 4 degrees of retard for emissions purposes.

Am I asking for trouble at 8 degrees?

 

the 302 cam is NOT ground with any retard that i know of from what I can find...the 351 and 400m and bigger all use a retarded crank gear...thet cam is ground straight up...

I would go 4 for now...and play with it...you might try 8 later if you get board and want to tear it down again...

the only thing is with 8 degrees advance things will happen alot earlier and you WILL need to stay conservative on the actual base timing...you will make more cylinder pressure earlier and you'll get Ping/Detonation much easier...

once you are up and running you'll need to set the base back at 10 degrees and bump up by 2 degrees till you find the sweet spot again...as it will change...