Hello all, newbie here. My '96 has developed a really nasty growl, almost a chatter, and at times an accompanying vibration in the steering wheel and even floorboard that seems to be coming from the front end. It seems to occur under acceleration but does not completely disappear when decelerating. It is however much less noticeable. The first thing I did was replace the inner and outer bearings; no change. Convinced it had something to do with my hubs not releasing I started searching for answers. I've read many posts here and ran across the following diagnosis on a Ford ranger forum (still Fords, right?) and my truck seemed to pass the test with flying colors. Does anyone have any ideas? I would much appreciate your thoughts.

Diagnosing automatic locking hub problems
First off: How to check that your locking hubs are working correctly.

1. Put your truck in park. Make sure it is in 2WD high. Set the parking brake.
2. Jack left front wheel off the ground.
3. Find the front driveshaft - it's the round bar (about 1 1/2 inches in diameter) going from the transfer case (behind the transmission) to the front differential (the big round thing in the middle of the front wheels).
4. Turn the front driveshaft. It should turn freely. You should see the half shaft (the shaft connecting the front differential to the wheel) of the raised wheel turn as you turn the driveshaft.
5. Within one or two turns, the hub in the wheel should lock up, and the wheel should start turning, either forwards or backwards (depending on which way you are turning the shaft).
6. Hold onto the driveshaft to try to prevent it from turning. Try to rotate the wheel in the same direction it was just turning. It should turn the driveshaft you are hanging onto as you turn the wheel.
7. Hold onto the driveshaft to prevent it from turning. Rotate the wheel in the opposite direction. You should feel the hub unlock, and the wheel should spin freely without turning the driveshaft.
8. Turn the front driveshaft in the opposite direction you did before. You should see the half shaft (the shaft connecting the front differential to the wheel) of the raised wheel turn as you turn the driveshaft.
9. Within one or two turns, the hub in the wheel should lock up, and the wheel should start turning, the opposite way than it did before.
10. Hold onto the driveshaft to try to prevent it from turning. Try to rotate the wheel in the same direction it was just turning. It should turn the driveshaft you are hanging onto as you turn the wheel.
11. Hold onto the driveshaft to prevent it from turning. Rotate the wheel in the opposite direction. You should feel the hub unlock, and the wheel should spin freely without turning the driveshaft.
12. Lower the wheel, jack up the opposite wheel, and repeat the tests.

If everything happens as described above, your hubs are operating correctly. If not, chances are your hubs are dirty and/or full of grease.

Does this diagnosis sound correct to the experts here?

 

Welcome to the forums!
To answer your question, I'd say that test sounds about right. HOWEVER, I doubt it is your growling problem, unless you get the noise when it is in 4wd. I think you're looking at two different problems now, if your test failed the hub test.

Your hubs may be bad, but I'm betting something else is causing what you are complaining about. What made you think it was the hubs making the noise?

Changing the hubs aren't that hard if that's what you intend to do, I switched mine from auto to manual personally

 

I read your post a little more about how you think the hubs aren't releasing. You may be right...when does the noise come about? When you are turning? If you replaced the bearings yourself, the hubs shouldn't be a hard job for you...just take 'em apart and grease them up or just replace them

 

Thanks for responding. To be honest I just don't know where to look next. I figured if the front bearings were good I'd look at the rear but the problem seems to be right under neath me. If you have any ideas as to where to look next I'd be happy to listen.

Thanks.

 

Long shot - U joints for the drive shaft. I've never had a set so bad it was like your case, but that would explain the acceleration/deceleration deal. Plus its cheaper than buying a new hub set. It doesn't match with the sounds though, just the vibrations

 

Thanks. I had considered the U-joints but talked myself out of it. I'll have a closer look tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

i agree u joints i just replaced mine and let me tell you soomth as silk compared to before i changes them do yourself the favor and do all of them... for 8 dollars or so from napa its def worth it. i changed on and then had another snap so... make it easy and youll know you can compltetly rule it out


when mine was on its way out it would vibrate very little at speeds from 30 to 40 only then it would gradualy get worse and worse feeling like the truck want to rattle out your fillings. new u joints feels like a whole new truck