hobebru

I've recently purchased a 96' F150; shortly after the purchase, I took it down to have four tires mounted on it and was informed that the front end, I.E. tie rods, inner and outer were shot , as well as the driver's side radius arm bushings. So far, I've replaced all of the tie rods, but haven't "fought" with the radius arm bushings. The bracket that holds the bushings is rivoted to the frame and loks to be quite a chore regarding removal to change out the rubber bushings. I'm wondering if anyone has changed the driver's side radius arm bushings and if they might have any tips as to doing it with a minimum of problems? Also, where else should I look for worn components of the steering assembly?
So far, my $2600 F150 long bed, 2wheel drive, automatic tranny, with a 4.9l engine has a new set of six plies, new rear brakes (super hassel!!!), new air filter, synthetic oil with filter, new tranny (with filter) and posi diff. fluid, as well as the above mentioned front end stuff. This truck has 156k,. so I guess that the repairs are probably to be expected. Thank the Lord, I can do most of this work myself, because dealer shop rates in Kansas City are at $100/hr. or so, and private shops are getting $60 to $85 per hour. I guess that if gas can go up so can evrything else. Why? Because they can. Bummer, Bummer, and Bummer!

NGM

The bushings are tedious but easy to change. Raise the front end and let it dangle while supporting the truck by the frame. Install a ratcheting strap ( a good one) around the arm you are working on. Remove the large nut and let the arm swing foward far enough to remove the old bushings.
Install the new bushings and ratchet it back in place.

hobebru

Is the best way to remove the rear supporting bracket, since it is original and rivoted to the frame, to just grind off the heads of the rivots and replace them with grade #8 bolts?
Thank you ahead of time for your assisance.

NGM

Hell no. Just do it the way I mentioned above and it will take about 1 hour. Even if you grind the rivets it will still swing foward and have to be pulled back with something.

hobebru

I'm sorry, I wasn't aware that the radius arm would swing forward (?) ( if that in fact is the direction it will go once its freed up), so far forward that the threads would clear the bracket after the nut is removed. So could you explain in a little more detail what the ratchet strap is holding once I unscrew the radius arm nut on the bushing shaft? Please bare with me, I've never replaced these bushings and I'm really not very well versed on eccentricities of the Ford 150 front end. In short, where does the arm go after the nut is removed...Forward, downwards, backwards.....?
Thanks again,
Bruce

hobebru

I've got the idea now....ratchet it to hold the radius arm from swinging forward; remove the nut from the shaft; ratchet (carefully) the arm forward to clear the bracket on the frame; install inner bushings; ratcket the arm back, so the shaft goes back through the bracket; install outer bushing on shaft and the nut...tighten as needed and get a front end alignment. Sorry, I didn't read your last thread as carefully as I should have. If any of my last comments are incorrect, could you please let me know. Thanks again for all of your wisdom. You saved me a lot of bruised knuckles...THAT'S FOR SURE!
Bruce

calvin

this is how I always done it ,just grind off the rivets and use new #8 bolts and I have done some off roading