I know its something with the egr but dont know what exactly or how to deal with it. The cel light only comes on when you first turn the key then goes away and when the truck gets warmed up good about 10 min of driving it comes on. Sometimes it comes on later even after the truck has been off for a few min but then comes back. So idk what to

 

332 is EGR did not open during test. So we need to find out why. The EGR is activated by the pcm switching vacuum to the solenoid. The vacuum moves the EGR valve up and down. A sensor on the valve tells the pcm it moved. The sensor didn't say it moved. So from start to finish, when the test told the pcm to activate, either the voltage didn't get to the switch, the vacuum didn't get to the switch, the switch didn't switch, the vacuum didn't get to the EGR valve, the valve didn't move, the sensor didn't read it moving or the electrical signal didn't make it back to the pcm. Now its all about checking moving parts, electrical flow and vacuum.

 

I forgot about this thread but im sick of looking at the cel coming on when it gets warmed up. So what do i do to trst everything. Also if i just leave it alone does this affect mpg and engine power.

 

Yes it will effect mpg and possibly performance depending on the the problem. I would start with electrical. Make sure you have voltage to the vacuum switch. Then test the ground. Then test the switch by grounding the switched ground. Now you can check vacuum. Make sure vacuum is getting to the switch, then when switched, from there to the EGR valve. Then you need to make sure the valve moves. If you can't tell by switching the switch, use a vacuum pump and apply vacuum to it. It should move up and down freely. If its stuck remove it and clean it or replace it. If it moves, check for leaks and check the sensor. You should be able to read a change in resistance as the valve moves up and down. Finally check that wire for continuity back to the CPU.

 

Will the egr valve or what ever its called that bolts to the upper intake off a 87 300 work on my 95. The one off the 87 motor is new and i want to switch them to see if it makes a difference.

 

I'm not sure if it will fit or not but its a simple valve. The plunger moves up or down when vacuum is applied to the membrane. Either the membrane is broken and vacuum leaks out, the plunger is stuck and won't move up and down or air leaks past the plunger and it won't seal the valve closed.

 

Ok i replaced the valve and the line going to it and the manifold. When i unbolted the line it felt loose and i saw it had rusted off where it bolts to the manifold so im assuming that was the problem. I hope this fixed the problem

 

That would make one big vacuum leak.

 

Well my cel light is still coming on but is taking a lot longer before it comes on. Maybe its something different but i guess ill pull codes again