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92 fuel gauge not working

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Old 12-13-2008, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by aliens8mycow
There is one in each tank. If both are giving incorrect readings, both are bad.

You can buy them at your local auto parts store.

Here's the deal - you have to drop the fuel tank and pull the fuel pump to change the sending unit. Think seriously about replacing the pump while you're in there. You won't want to do it again any time soon...

Pull your bed off it is much easier and will save you busting your ***** if you have to replace your sending units.
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:06 PM
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My fuel gauge in my 95 seems to be working great on the front tank. Shows Full when tank is full. Rear shows 3/4 when tank is stuffed full, not really worried but curious
Old 12-13-2008, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by thejon2524
Pull your bed off it is much easier and will save you busting your ***** if you have to replace your sending units.
Thats what my friend and I did instead of dropping the tank on his truck, and then again on my fathers when his sending unit went out. Beats trying to not snap a bolt off for the straps when dropping a tank, not to say there light either, especially if there is gas in it.
Old 03-12-2012, 07:47 PM
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I'm a little too late in the game to be responding back to the post since it's 4 yrs old,still someone can still use whatever posts and messages they can get their hands on to help better their own situation.

I bought a new fuel pump last week and my truck still chugs along as if it's not getting fuel to the engine,anyway when i did buy the new pump, i did not include a new floater at all.heck,the only thing it came with was the pump itself and a few small accessories to help make the pump stay fitted inside the gas tank,thats it.So,floaters dont come with a new fuel pump.Now i dont know if i ONLy need a new floater and only just that so where i have to buy a new pumo just for that, i do not know.ill have to call and ask autozone how they works.

btw,my floater in my truck went out.while changing the pump,i accidently broke something fom the floater.i know i did cause i heard somehting snap/break.The small plastic piece that holds the floater on broke,well it wa shalf broke anyway.All i had to do was place that wire the floater is connected to back into the hole and place into that area on that palstic piece where the wire rests on it and that was it! still though,ever si ce then the floater will not work even though its all connected correctly.it beats me! any ideas?

whats this "fuel level sending unit" "BCM" and "Rheostat"? where are they located at? descrbing to me where they're at is useful,but using pictures are soooo much better though sometimes,especially now.

so yeah my floaters not working at all.should i buy a new one? is the wiring bad (sending unit)?
Old 03-12-2012, 08:15 PM
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I just called autozone and order to get that small lil peice that the floater rests on that connects to the sdie of the pump isnt serperate to buy.Id have to buy the whole fuel pump in roder to get that tiny lil piecve.forgte that! all i need is that one peice,i think.my gauge isnt reading at all.either it says I have no gas at all or i have the fullest tank of gas I've ever seen.So i dont know what went wrong or where I screwed up getting that fuel pump out but either way my gauge is messed up and i cant tell at all how much as i have.

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Old 05-20-2023, 11:50 PM
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Default Front Tank only

Just reaching out because I just came into ownership of a 92 5.0 f150. The rear tank works perfectly fine and operation of the front is fine, but the gauge reads E even after filling it up. It pumps and runs as normal, the gauge just doesn't work. But the rear works perfectly fine. Any suggestions?
Old 05-21-2023, 12:46 AM
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I agree
Old 05-21-2023, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AONMatt
Just reaching out because I just came into ownership of a 92 5.0 f150. The rear tank works perfectly fine and operation of the front is fine, but the gauge reads E even after filling it up. It pumps and runs as normal, the gauge just doesn't work. But the rear works perfectly fine. Any suggestions?
You'd be better off starting a new thread, as opposed to jumping into one that's been dead for over a decade. But I would recommend starting with an ohm reading of the sending unit.



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