Hey guys This is my first post. I have a 96 F-150. Last year while on a hunting trip I was driving down a muddy logging road and had to put the truck in 4wd. It engaged and got me where I was going. Later when I got in the truck to ride out the muddy sloppy road I had driven in on I noticed I was spinning alot more than I was on the way in earlier. The truck was still in 4wd at the floor shifter but I found out later that the 4wd was no longer engaged. Now when I shift the floor shifter int 4wd either Hi or Lo the truck gears way down like it should but the 4wd is not engaging. the transfer case is engagind and the front driv shaft is turining. I haven't found and wires or vacume lines unplugged (not that I'd really know where they were). Does anyone know what the problem is? I'm thinking the hubs but how could I be sure? the 96 has the wierd system with the auto hubs that only engage when the front wheels turn a couple revolutions first. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. The truck is 96 F-150 manual trans 5.0 xlt floor shifter 4x4

 

someone posted this on a different forum when i was trying to diagnose my 4x4 problem

"Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at broncozone.com

Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..."
Source: by Warn®

"...Manual Hub - The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case....."
Source: by Steve83"

 

I don't think this will work for me. I can't engage my hubs manually.

 

bump