4.9L high idle
#12
LOL Steve83 seems to have a pretty comprehensive collection of articles, much better than any Haynes manual lol! I would love to find a full set of service manuals including the EVTM for this truck. I have my old set from my 88 Thunderbird still out on the garage... love those things.
#13
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It's a discussion. I respond to things I think need responses, just like everyone else does. But I quote each specific point that I reply to, so it's clearer what each point I post is about.
The fact that you brought it up when I said the scan tool isn't accurate. I don't know why you assumed experience with EEC-IV vehicles was relevant to this topic. I just don't get it.No, they're NOT. They're frequently spurious, as I've been saying for the past few days. So codes received from an EEC-IV scanner are as likely to make you chase your tail as to help you find or fix anything.
Everything is limited - EEC-Vs are limited. What's your point? Those limits have nothing to do with your truck's symptom. No EEC will ever fix itself or the vehicle it's attached to. If you want to fix your truck, go back to my first post...
No, never, on this or any other discussion forum. If you find where I said something like that, quote it. I'd like to see it.Clearly, you haven't read Haynes. Like Ford & me, Haynes recommends using a jumper wire to read codes.
They're not hard to find, or expensive. I have all '92-07 service, PCEDs, & EVTMs on CDs & DVDs; and a few paper ones.
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
Last edited by Steve83; 12-15-2018 at 10:52 AM.
#14
Well, yeah, you have.
The EVP isn't sealed to the EGR, and blowing into the vacuum port isn't how the EGR is tested. It's designed to leak, and it only has vacuum applied. I doubt those codes have anything to do with the engine stalling. When you had the EGR off, was the pintle loose in the seat? IOW, did it look like exhaust could go thru the valve even when it had NO vacuum applied?
Temporarily clamp a piece of Aluminum foil between the valve & intake to block it off. Leave enough sticking out that you can remove it easily later.
I suspect the IAC is sticking &/or the throttle body has sludge. If cleaning the IAC helps, buy a new one. Read these captions:
https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=90813
I know that the person you were replying to had a different issue than I have, but it is a VALID test to block off the EGR from the Intake to test if you suspec: 1. The EGR pintle is not seating fully, allowing exhaust gas to pass through it more than was designed at idle and 2. To block the valve off from the manifold to determine if the Vac leak that I am experiencing is a leak at the gasket, or a pin hole in the Diaphragm of the EGR. If I block it off from the intake, and the leak goes away, then I know that the Diaphragm is leaking, If I block it off and it STILL has a vac leak, i know that it is the gasket or possibly a crack in the manifold leaking Vacuum. Mind you, I am talking about placing foil over the valve side of the gaskey, not the intake side of the gasket.
I will be making a home made smoke machine with an old air mattress inflator (no compressor at home), some vac line, and a black and Mild cigar to see where it's leaking for sure, but as a quick and dirty test with the Propane source that I have now, blocking off the port is easy to do.
Re: EGR/EVP seal and other EGR issues
Post by Steve83 » Tue Sep 28, 2010 1:15 pmThe EVP isn't sealed to the EGR, and blowing into the vacuum port isn't how the EGR is tested. It's designed to leak, and it only has vacuum applied. I doubt those codes have anything to do with the engine stalling. When you had the EGR off, was the pintle loose in the seat? IOW, did it look like exhaust could go thru the valve even when it had NO vacuum applied?
Temporarily clamp a piece of Aluminum foil between the valve & intake to block it off. Leave enough sticking out that you can remove it easily later.
I suspect the IAC is sticking &/or the throttle body has sludge. If cleaning the IAC helps, buy a new one. Read these captions:
https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=90813
I know that the person you were replying to had a different issue than I have, but it is a VALID test to block off the EGR from the Intake to test if you suspec: 1. The EGR pintle is not seating fully, allowing exhaust gas to pass through it more than was designed at idle and 2. To block the valve off from the manifold to determine if the Vac leak that I am experiencing is a leak at the gasket, or a pin hole in the Diaphragm of the EGR. If I block it off from the intake, and the leak goes away, then I know that the Diaphragm is leaking, If I block it off and it STILL has a vac leak, i know that it is the gasket or possibly a crack in the manifold leaking Vacuum. Mind you, I am talking about placing foil over the valve side of the gaskey, not the intake side of the gasket.
I will be making a home made smoke machine with an old air mattress inflator (no compressor at home), some vac line, and a black and Mild cigar to see where it's leaking for sure, but as a quick and dirty test with the Propane source that I have now, blocking off the port is easy to do.
#15
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You're right - I forgot about that. But you're also right that it was a very-different situation. He had already R&I'ed the EGR, so pulling it again wasn't much risk. Before you mess with yours, price the EGR tube (which could break).
But that will tell you NOTHING about a vacuum leak in the diaphragm because the diaphragm isn't exposed to either port. And there's only 1 port in the gasket, for the intake manifold; the exhaust comes through the tube's flange.
BTW
I added some info to my previous post, after the storm blew over last night.
But that will tell you NOTHING about a vacuum leak in the diaphragm because the diaphragm isn't exposed to either port. And there's only 1 port in the gasket, for the intake manifold; the exhaust comes through the tube's flange.
BTW
I added some info to my previous post, after the storm blew over last night.
Last edited by Steve83; 12-15-2018 at 11:34 AM.
#16
You're right - I forgot about that. But you're also right that it was a very-different situation. He had already R&I'ed the EGR, so pulling it again wasn't much risk. Before you mess with yours, price the EGR tube (which could break).
But that will tell you NOTHING about a vacuum leak in the diaphragm because the diaphragm isn't exposed to either port.
But that will tell you NOTHING about a vacuum leak in the diaphragm because the diaphragm isn't exposed to either port.
#18
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Many years ago, there was a torrent tracker site called something like "freefordservicedisks", but Ford shut it down. I already had a couple of them from working at the dealership, though. Read the captions in this album:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
#19
Senior Member
That is pretty cool steve i like that.
how long has it been since ford shut it down?
(phone app link)[/QUOTE]
how long has it been since ford shut it down?
(phone app link)[/QUOTE]
#20
I may have fixed the high idle issue. I replaced the EGR gasket, and then went back and double checked the timing. It appears that it was sitting at about 8 BTDC, now it's at 10 like it should be. It seems to be idling a bit lower. When I finish my smoke tester I will see if the vac leaks are fixed.