4.9l Fuel Issue, let's see what you can come up with!
03-16-2019, 12:12 PM
#51
The new pump's harness plug is in the picture of the new pump, it's gray
03-16-2019, 12:19 PM
#52
Senior Member
Yes it is! I don't know how I missed it LOL.
Most likely going to have to cut wires and splice. I know there were changes in the fuel pump connectors in the 92-96 years.
Probably not what you want to hear, but if it were me, I would find a plug that fits the new connector, and re-pin the factory harness to that plug so you can disconnect it properly without having to make any alterations to the new pump plug. Once you cut those wires on the new pump, it's yours, regardless if it works or not. Steve83 knows more about these fuel systems than anyone - might want to look back at those links he provided to get more insight.
Here is a youtube vid discussing the subject - different pump but same idea:
Most likely going to have to cut wires and splice. I know there were changes in the fuel pump connectors in the 92-96 years.
Probably not what you want to hear, but if it were me, I would find a plug that fits the new connector, and re-pin the factory harness to that plug so you can disconnect it properly without having to make any alterations to the new pump plug. Once you cut those wires on the new pump, it's yours, regardless if it works or not. Steve83 knows more about these fuel systems than anyone - might want to look back at those links he provided to get more insight.
Here is a youtube vid discussing the subject - different pump but same idea:
Last edited by BLDTruth; 03-16-2019 at 12:22 PM.
03-16-2019, 12:44 PM
#53
Yes it is! I don't know how I missed it LOL.
Most likely going to have to cut wires and splice. I know there were changes in the fuel pump connectors in the 92-96 years.
Probably not what you want to hear, but if it were me, I would find a plug that fits the new connector, and re-pin the factory harness to that plug so you can disconnect it properly without having to make any alterations to the new pump plug. Once you cut those wires on the new pump, it's yours, regardless if it works or not. Steve83 knows more about these fuel systems than anyone - might want to look back at those links he provided to get more insight.
Here is a youtube vid discussing the subject - different pump but same idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1GeK7RKDt8
Most likely going to have to cut wires and splice. I know there were changes in the fuel pump connectors in the 92-96 years.
Probably not what you want to hear, but if it were me, I would find a plug that fits the new connector, and re-pin the factory harness to that plug so you can disconnect it properly without having to make any alterations to the new pump plug. Once you cut those wires on the new pump, it's yours, regardless if it works or not. Steve83 knows more about these fuel systems than anyone - might want to look back at those links he provided to get more insight.
Here is a youtube vid discussing the subject - different pump but same idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1GeK7RKDt8
You pretty much guessed correctly. I just got off the phone with the parts department at my local dealership and I have the correct pump, but they have a note along with it and their computer system that says you also need to buy WT56822, which is the opposite wiring plug and a couple inches of wire ready to splice in.
Just ordered it off Amazon for 20 bucks (I don't feel like crawling in a junkyard to cut one out), And I also ordered a new steel tank with lock ring. My lock ring was destroyed and the tank looks a couple years away from leaking anyway.
I was just looking at the new assembly and realized it doesn't come with the fuel sending unit. Should I have also ordered a new one of these from Ford? Looks like it would be another 120 bucks.
Last edited by jbeebe; 03-16-2019 at 01:09 PM.
03-17-2019, 05:18 AM
#55
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I'd invite that parts guy to either cough up a free pigtail since he either missed that note, or just ignored it to get you to commit to the pump before adding in the cost of the connector.
No, you don't have to change the level sender, but it's a good idea to rinse out its little plastic housing with Berryman's B12 carb cleaner to remove the varnish from the contacts. Even better to carefully cut off the melted peg, unsnap the cover, remove the PC board resistor, and polish it with 0000 fine steel wool.
No, you don't have to change the level sender, but it's a good idea to rinse out its little plastic housing with Berryman's B12 carb cleaner to remove the varnish from the contacts. Even better to carefully cut off the melted peg, unsnap the cover, remove the PC board resistor, and polish it with 0000 fine steel wool.
03-17-2019, 02:34 PM
#56
I'd invite that parts guy to either cough up a free pigtail since he either missed that note, or just ignored it to get you to commit to the pump before adding in the cost of the connector.
No, you don't have to change the level sender, but it's a good idea to rinse out its little plastic housing with Berryman's B12 carb cleaner to remove the varnish from the contacts. Even better to carefully cut off the melted peg, unsnap the cover, remove the PC board resistor, and polish it with 0000 fine steel wool.
No, you don't have to change the level sender, but it's a good idea to rinse out its little plastic housing with Berryman's B12 carb cleaner to remove the varnish from the contacts. Even better to carefully cut off the melted peg, unsnap the cover, remove the PC board resistor, and polish it with 0000 fine steel wool.
Good advice, thanks!
03-20-2019, 02:35 PM
#59
Senior Member
A check valve may be integrated with the new pump, I would contact the maker to verify. Otherwise either transfer the KNOWN GOOD valve or get a new one to install. Without it, you will immediately lose pressure when you shut it down.
Last edited by raski; 03-20-2019 at 02:39 PM.
03-20-2019, 04:46 PM
#60
The new pump is a motorcraft one. How can I test the old check valve? I blew air through both sides and it passes through blowing in either end