4.9L/300ci Thermostat question.
02-27-2010, 03:02 PM
#11
Hi-Rev Motorsports
I flush the heater core out with water in BOTH directions...then follow with air...or however you wish to get the water out....
I then go the the local store and get some CLR (calcium, Lime and rust remover) and fill the core...let is set for 30 minutes and flush it again...
Even with my truck and a 160 stat the heater temp out of the vent is still 120 degrees..still hot enough to roast me out...I ride with the heater on the lowest setting and the window part way down at times...
I then go the the local store and get some CLR (calcium, Lime and rust remover) and fill the core...let is set for 30 minutes and flush it again...
Even with my truck and a 160 stat the heater temp out of the vent is still 120 degrees..still hot enough to roast me out...I ride with the heater on the lowest setting and the window part way down at times...
02-27-2010, 03:09 PM
#12
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when i replaced my fluid i disconnected the top hose to the throttle body then held it up and filled it with coolant thru the radiator and didnt have to burb it.
02-27-2010, 03:11 PM
#13
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I drained all of my fluid, and put a gallon of straight antifreeze in it, with a gallon of distilled water in it. I haven't had to burp my coolant system. It's been fine.
02-27-2010, 03:25 PM
#14
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I flush the heater core out with water in BOTH directions...then follow with air...or however you wish to get the water out....
I then go the the local store and get some CLR (calcium, Lime and rust remover) and fill the core...let is set for 30 minutes and flush it again...
Even with my truck and a 160 stat the heater temp out of the vent is still 120 degrees..still hot enough to roast me out...I ride with the heater on the lowest setting and the window part way down at times...
I then go the the local store and get some CLR (calcium, Lime and rust remover) and fill the core...let is set for 30 minutes and flush it again...
Even with my truck and a 160 stat the heater temp out of the vent is still 120 degrees..still hot enough to roast me out...I ride with the heater on the lowest setting and the window part way down at times...
I think the heater core is a bit sturdier than the radiator. I use CLR to clean my aluminum rims too. Helped keep me from spending money on new rims.
02-27-2010, 05:37 PM
#16
Hi-Rev Motorsports
I didnt need to burp mine either...turn the heater on and when you start it the air goes thru teh heater core and to the rad...
Main thing is to use CHEAP anti-freeze with a LOW Silicate content...the Silicate is what drops out and causes the corrosion (white formations) not the water....
the more expensive solutions have a much higher content and that necessitates flushing more often....
I have run straight water with 1/2 a quart of tranny fluid and I got NO corrosion at all...doesnt work to well in winter though
Main thing is to use CHEAP anti-freeze with a LOW Silicate content...the Silicate is what drops out and causes the corrosion (white formations) not the water....
the more expensive solutions have a much higher content and that necessitates flushing more often....
I have run straight water with 1/2 a quart of tranny fluid and I got NO corrosion at all...doesnt work to well in winter though
02-28-2010, 07:37 AM
#17
David Harley
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If you happen to be wondering if you have a lower temp thermostat because your temp gauge isnt reaching the middle of the normal range, well join the crew here, alot of us here have this happening. mine never passes the N in normal but the heater blows out hot air all the time.
02-28-2010, 12:49 PM
#18
Hi-Rev Motorsports
mine doesnt even get to the N...it stays right on the Line of the Bracket before the N...
Going down the road it is under the bracket...right before the E-Fan kicks on (@ 170deg) it is almost touching the N
Going down the road it is under the bracket...right before the E-Fan kicks on (@ 170deg) it is almost touching the N
04-03-2011, 02:25 AM
#19
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Thermostat Fix. I did lots of reasearch for my 87' F-150
I just replaced my thermostat. Every auto parts store carries a wide variety of temp thermostats. If your vehicle has EFI. Electronic Fuel Injection. Dont use any other temperature other than factory.
Call your ford dealer for the part number. The trucks computer is setup for the factory temperature. In the case of my 87' F150 5.0 liter.
I have EFI. So All the stores carry every thermostat except the one recommended by ford - motorcraft. Mine uses a 190 Degree thermostat. Auto parts stores just dont carry that oddball temperature. I also had my radiator replaced with a brand new aluminum one.
My trucks temp gauge now stays about 25% on cool days. And two days ago it got to 102 and it went up to 40% of the way up with the air conditioning on. I was carrying a full load of scrap metal roughly 2,000 lbs in the bed going up a 40 degree elevation on the freeway.. I was going slow. But with a 302 engine with 303,000 miles on it. Im not expecting it to win any trophies.
Its all torque. I felt like a tractor trailer with a full load. It worked awsome. Before i changed the radiator and thermostant the temp gauge used to sit at 70% on the hottest days or just plain go overheat on the side of the freeway. Just driving on the street. with the a/c on.
Mike
Call your ford dealer for the part number. The trucks computer is setup for the factory temperature. In the case of my 87' F150 5.0 liter.
I have EFI. So All the stores carry every thermostat except the one recommended by ford - motorcraft. Mine uses a 190 Degree thermostat. Auto parts stores just dont carry that oddball temperature. I also had my radiator replaced with a brand new aluminum one.
Something that i didnt know. I went to an old school radiator shop where they will rebuild it right in front of you. They have been around for 40 years. The shops called american radiator in sylmar ca. Under $200 bux installed Out the Door. With a 1 Year Warranty. Best price best service i have ever seen from an automotive shop. And yahoo rated them 5 stars.. And dirt cheap pricing.
They told me that the pressure valve release lifting tab on the radiator caps should never be used on vehicles with a overflow bottle. And if a vehicle was to ever overheat. Throw out that radiator cap and get a new one. They now use plastic in the caps that melt if the cap gets too hot. Causing it to malfunction. My trucks temp gauge now stays about 25% on cool days. And two days ago it got to 102 and it went up to 40% of the way up with the air conditioning on. I was carrying a full load of scrap metal roughly 2,000 lbs in the bed going up a 40 degree elevation on the freeway.. I was going slow. But with a 302 engine with 303,000 miles on it. Im not expecting it to win any trophies.
Its all torque. I felt like a tractor trailer with a full load. It worked awsome. Before i changed the radiator and thermostant the temp gauge used to sit at 70% on the hottest days or just plain go overheat on the side of the freeway. Just driving on the street. with the a/c on.
Mike
05-30-2011, 10:01 PM
#20
November 2011 TOTM Winner
While there are some that let their "Hooptie" get the best of em, most seem to know where performance begins to dwindle & Hooptie takes over. On your heater core, the flow isn't as forceful as you might think during normal operation. Sediment tends to accumulate. Disconnect the hoses in & out, farthest from the coil & force city water pressure (garden hose) through them, alternating flow directions. Any sediment should be dislodged. Works for me. Here's an inexpensive performance mod requiring minimal $ ($150.+-), time or elbow grease. Your best bang for your buck! http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump