Ok my 95 F150 w/ 07 Explorer motor project is finished.. I would like to share with you all my cost, issues and experiance with this rebuild.. First off I rebuilt the motor b/c it started knocking and eventually got worse and worse.. Pulled the motor tore it down and IT WAS AT THIS POINT that I found out I really had an 97 Explorer motor.. (this is great!! b/c of the GT40p heads!!).. Well anyway spun cyl #4 and #8 bearings and crank was shot.. I will always own a truck and Im sure not buying a new one.. So

Replaced crankshaft(used), bearings, rings and machine shop to recondition the rods.. ($455.00)
new oil pump $60.00

**make sure to apply gasket maker to last main cap (#5) to block surface or it will leak. always plasitgauge just to make sure of your bearing clearance is right which is .0015 +/- .0005 thats same for both mains and rods.. mains torq to 65 ft/lbs.. rods are 20 ft/lbs

Head gaskets and headbolts $130.00 **torq to yield bolts and must be replaced when ever reassembling and you need to fasten in 3 stages..last being 90 degrees..

I didnt do anything to the heads except cleaning the deck surface..
timing cover and water pump gaskets had to be for a F150 and not Explorer b/c ther different..(Yes I keep truck wp, timing cover, and intake) and the rest of the gaskets all were about $40.00.
New water pump and radiator $210.00 (Is advisable to replace, but you dont NEED to..I just thought what the heck..)

I switched my crappy rusted *** metal valve covers to Aluminum covers that were off an older Mustang.. This was getting me into problems.. These aluminum covers are thicker.. so I had to replace all the valve cover bolts.. Also the oil cap and right rear pcv had to be modified.. (b/c now I lost about 3/8" in clearance to upper intake)

The smog pump I wanted to waste but delete pulleys are too expensive in my opinion so I just gutted the air vanes from inside the pump and went with that..**was not a piece a cake but a hammer, pliers and punch will do the job..

**DO NOT DISASSEMBLE BELT TENSIONER!! take it off with the entire bracket.. the tensioner spring is designed to stay on whole braket!! Also tensioner pulley is LEFT HAND thread.. when disassembling you will have to to start with bolt behind tensioner by lefting up arm then removing other 2 bolts..

Make sure you build up oil pressure BEFORE starting engine!!.. What I did id take out distributor body and with cordless drill, 1/4 square drive, appx 10" 1/4 extension and 1/4" deep socket (short will not fit thru hole of block) attach socket to oil pump shaft and operate cordless in reverse direction.. until it gets stiffer then your good..Do this while engine is still on stand for ease then again before the dist. is ready to fall in.. Then right before firing up for first time, unplug ign coil wire and crank motor until oil pressure gauge moves to the normal position... Last thing you need is turning over a new crank kit dry!!

Dont forget any vacumm lines, or unfastened sensors..

Remember to top off p/s fluid and to burp the cooling system..

When this entire job was finished It had taken about 12 weeks and $1000.00. I ran into a lot of misc b.s. like the valve covers, modifing the pcv system, my exhaust modified to fit the Explorer oil pan..

Just when you think you'll only spend a certain amount of $$.. you better add a few hundred!! It never fails... But Im happy now and totally RELIEVED..