sibo191

A few days ago my crank pulley literally broke off the bolts I replaced it fairly easily and preceded to go on with the service I was planning to do anyway since I was under there anyway. (it broke on the way back from auto zone with all the filters and new plugs )

A bit of recent history

New alternator (The alternator ate it a little over a week prior to this that was replaced.)

a week after replacing the alternator the crank pulley literally broke off like I explained above. So that is new (could these 2 be related somehow?).

As it was due for a service anyway I went ahead and changed the oil filters plugs and wire wile i was waiting on the pulley from ford.

After I got everything back together and plug wire back in the correct order I tried to start it but the battery didn't have the power, tried jumping it but it wouldn't hold a charge so replaced that.

Now it cranks like it should and sounds like it is close to firing up but doesn't quite make it. what sure what else to check, the internet is full of information that is all over the place.

In short:

New: Alternator, Battery, Plugs, Plug Wires, Crank Pulley, Oil/air filters, Drive belt

No Check engine light when cranking or turning the key to "ON". When Cranking I get the (ABS) and batter warning lights like I normally do. Only a slight smell of gas after cranking (flooding no doubt due to not starting)

Dont have a spark tester so I rigged up one using a spare plug wire and plug, I didn't see a spark but I did feel one (through rubber boot and rubber gripped pliers holding it).

When I changed the pulley I did not have to take out the crank bolt, just the 4 bolts holding it on the face of the harmonic balancer (which was in good shape, good seals, no warping) I braced it up so it would not move while taking off the bolts so I don't think I moved the timing any.

But now I am at a loss, I cant figure out why it wont start, all seems good. The Plug wires are in correct order and not crossed (I triple Checked that). all fuses are good both in dash and under hood, fuel pump is coming on and all dash gauges are working.


For any wondering mine is a 1996 F150 2WD 5.0L V-8 Automatic transmission

Any suggestions?

Aktech

Take the distributor cap off and crank it. See it the rotor is still turning. What ever was strong enough to brake the bolts is probably strong enough to snap the chain.

sibo191

Checked the roter like you suggested, its turning. also all the contact points looked pretty clean both on the roter and the cap.

Aktech

Pull codes next. You should be obd II. This could be the coil.pip or ignition module. If you think your flooding it pull and clean plugs. Also put your foot on the gas peddle to shut the injectors off while cranking it.

sibo191

OK I got it running, Turns out it was an incorrect plug wire diagram. Put them in the correct order and it fired right up. But now the engine is vibrating more than normal. Any Ideas given what I said in the OP?

sibo191

I should put a correction in here. The crank pulley did not actually break the bolts, the pully itself broke off from around the bolts. The bolts were fine which is why it was so easy to change.

steve491

Did you use the old crank counter weight (harmonic balancer)? I've seen them dry up and shift the weight enough that it wouldn't even start.

sibo191

I did use the old Harmonic Balencer. I was told that if its not warped, the seals are good and doesnt move freely then it was still good.

sibo191

Any way to check the codes without having access to a scanner. There is no check engine light so I can't really count the flashes. I have no clue what is going on, Checks all the plugs I found #8 wasn't firing, checked the wire it was sending power just no spark, Replaced that plug gapped it to .054 no change. Still vibrating like and now losing power when under any load at all (throttle or just turning on A/C). Otherwise runs smooth at a low idle.

I'm out of Ideas now, perhaps fuel pressure test and replace the Harmonic Balencer just in case I missed something on it. At 390,000 miles it could be anything.

Any advice at all?

sibo191

As suggested by AKTech I removed and cleaned all spark plugs, Checked and changed the fuel injectors (Probably a waste of money, I know) I have been running Seafoam at every oil change to keep it all clean.

Got the truck running well enough to get to autozone for a code read came up P0401 and P0411. (Apparently EGR/emissions crap)

I sill have a miss in the #8 cylinder that did not throw up a code. Am I missing something here? To test it I pulled the plug wire and listened for a loss in power, this happened on all cylinders except #8. Tested for spark on all plugs and I do have spark, so why does it seem like #8 is the only problem and why is it not showing a code for it? My next step is a compression test, is there anything else anyone can think of?