1995 302 rough idle, stalling and dropping revs while driving.
#1
1995 302 rough idle, stalling and dropping revs while driving.
Truck model is a 1995 XLT with 302, 2wd and automatic transmission. 300k on clock
I have been having trouble lately with my truck, Whenever I start it up the revs start jumping all over the place on idle, starting from 1500 it goes down to around 1000 before diving back and forth to 400 or so, this usually results in the truck stalling out whenever I shift it out of park. Although after a couple of tries it can start back up at a normal idle. At first this was a rare occurrence but in the past couple of days it has started happening every time I start the truck up, now even carrying on with the erratic rev drops while I am actually driving, giving a shunting/stuttering feeling. The only saving grace is that after driving for a little while it seems to settle down.
I ran the engine self test and got codes 53, 86 and 32 with the engine running.
Right now I am not sure if it is a vacuum leak or something going on with the EGR valve. Any advice would be appreciated, this is my only vehicle so I need to sort this out as soon as I can.
I have been having trouble lately with my truck, Whenever I start it up the revs start jumping all over the place on idle, starting from 1500 it goes down to around 1000 before diving back and forth to 400 or so, this usually results in the truck stalling out whenever I shift it out of park. Although after a couple of tries it can start back up at a normal idle. At first this was a rare occurrence but in the past couple of days it has started happening every time I start the truck up, now even carrying on with the erratic rev drops while I am actually driving, giving a shunting/stuttering feeling. The only saving grace is that after driving for a little while it seems to settle down.
I ran the engine self test and got codes 53, 86 and 32 with the engine running.
Right now I am not sure if it is a vacuum leak or something going on with the EGR valve. Any advice would be appreciated, this is my only vehicle so I need to sort this out as soon as I can.
#2
Senior Member
https://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
I'm a little surprised you are getting 2 digit codes and not 3 digit codes being a 95, but my first guess would be your TPS is going out, and my second would be you have a vacuum leak. You can test the TPS if you have a digital volt-meter handy. You can also test the EGR by physically applying vacuum to the valve with a hose. If it moves, it works. Whether or not the vacuum line or the solenoid controlling it is working properly is another matter.
I recommend replacing all of the crappy plastic vacuum lines with rubber or silicone hoses. It may not fix your immediate problem but it will prevent a lot of them in the future.
I'm a little surprised you are getting 2 digit codes and not 3 digit codes being a 95, but my first guess would be your TPS is going out, and my second would be you have a vacuum leak. You can test the TPS if you have a digital volt-meter handy. You can also test the EGR by physically applying vacuum to the valve with a hose. If it moves, it works. Whether or not the vacuum line or the solenoid controlling it is working properly is another matter.
I recommend replacing all of the crappy plastic vacuum lines with rubber or silicone hoses. It may not fix your immediate problem but it will prevent a lot of them in the future.
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Grillmaster_ski (07-17-2019)
#3
I re-ran the self diagnose a few more times, I realized that the earlier codes were actually me misreading 538 and 632, both codes regarding an incorrect Goose test. upon doing the test correctly I got 111, a supposed all clear.
Since the computer could not detect anything would a vacuum leak be the most likely culprit? I will be able to get to a shop this weekend, the stalling is driving me crazy!
Since the computer could not detect anything would a vacuum leak be the most likely culprit? I will be able to get to a shop this weekend, the stalling is driving me crazy!
#4
Senior Member
Could be a bad idle air control valve - those are prone to gum up and play havoc with your idle.
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...-your-iac.html
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...-your-iac.html
#5
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Originally Posted by Grillmaster_ski
Truck model is a 1995 XLT with 302, 2wd and automatic transmission. 300k...
(phone app link)
If there's anything you're not sure about, post pics, as the link in that caption explains.
Before replacing any parts, inspect &/or test the most-likely culprits (disturbing as LITTLE as possible). Any decent digital multimeter (DMM; $15~80) will do, but some good pierce probes (as linked in this caption) will make some tests easier & safer:
(phone app link)
These captions explain how to check & repair some of the things that are likely to produce those symptoms:
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(phone app link)
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(phone app link)
This is the most-complex but also the most-thorough diagnostic procedure:
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This can be done with 3' of garden hose, or a long screwdriver pressed between your ear & the suspect part:
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This just takes a visual inspection:
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