1987 F150 (5.0L 302 V8) two problems - rough idle + now won't crank
10-03-2011, 07:43 PM
#71
Old Bastard
Originally Posted by tdcarter72
Here is a Technical Service Bulletin about testing the fuel pumps. I left off the high pressure pump, but can post it if you need it. Just flip you selector switch in the cab to the tank you want to test and follow this procedure.
Article No. FUEL PUMP - ELECTRIC - NEW SERVICE 87-11-15 PROCEDURE AND SHOP MANUAL REVISION
FORD: 1984-86 LTD 1984-87 ESCORT, EXP, MUSTANG, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD, CROWN VICTORIA
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1984-86 CAPRI, MARQUIS 1984-87 LYNX, TOPAZ, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, MARK VII, CONTINENTAL, LINCOLN TOWN CAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1984-87 E-SERIES, F-SERIES, RANGER, BRONCO II 1986-87 AEROSTAR
ISSUE: The present 1984-87 Car and Light Truck Shop Manuals, Section 24-35, have been revised to eliminate using a modified relay to operate the fuel pump during testing.
ACTION: When testing the electric fuel pump, use the following new service procedure to check the fuel flow/pressure.
1. Locate self-test connector, in engine compartment.
a. Front Wheel Drive: Tempo/Topaz, Escort/Lynx, EXP - Connector is behind strut tower on right side of cowl.
b. Unibody, Rear Wheel Drive: Thunderbird/Cougar, Mustang/Capri, LTD/Marquis - Connector is just below starter solenoid between left strut tower and battery. Mark VII, Continental - Connector is underneath coolant overflow reservoir, right side of engine compartment.
c. Conventional Frame, Rear Wheel Drive: Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car - Connector is at left fender apron, near hood hinge.
d. E-Series (Van) - Connector is at inner right fender apron, tucked alongside battery.
e. F-Series, Conventional Pick-Up - Connector is at right fender apron, just below starter solenoid.
f. Ranger/Bronco 11 - Connector is at right fender apron, next to carbon canister, in front of heater blower motor.
g. Aerostar - Connector is at left fender apron.
2. The self-test connector has a fuel pump terminal which must be used to operate the electric fuel pump with "Off".
3. Connect a jumper lead to the terminal, Figure 14.
4. Turn ignition switch to "Run" position.
5. Energize fuel pump, by grounding jumper lead from self-test connector, and check fuel pressure. If there is no pressure, be sure pump is receiving power. If necessary, correct any circuit fault.
CAUTION: Only ground to fuel pump terminal, or damage may occur to the EEC IV processor.
LOW PRESSURE PUMP
Open fuel line at the high pressure pump inlet.
[*]Connect a hose to line from fuel tank. Route hose into a suitable container. [*]Disconnect the high pressure fuel pump electrical connector from body wiring harness. [*]Ground jumper lead from self-test connector to activate fuel pump, then measure fuel flow for 10 seconds. It may be necessary to block the fuel hose to prime low pressure pump. With the outlet opened and under no back pressure on the outlet, this is normal.[*]If fuel pump produces a minimum flow of 16 ounces of fuel in 10 seconds, the pump is operating properly. If there is no flow from the pump, check electrical circuit, inlets for restrictions and then replace pump if necessary.
Article No. FUEL PUMP - ELECTRIC - NEW SERVICE 87-11-15 PROCEDURE AND SHOP MANUAL REVISION
FORD: 1984-86 LTD 1984-87 ESCORT, EXP, MUSTANG, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD, CROWN VICTORIA
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1984-86 CAPRI, MARQUIS 1984-87 LYNX, TOPAZ, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, MARK VII, CONTINENTAL, LINCOLN TOWN CAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1984-87 E-SERIES, F-SERIES, RANGER, BRONCO II 1986-87 AEROSTAR
ISSUE: The present 1984-87 Car and Light Truck Shop Manuals, Section 24-35, have been revised to eliminate using a modified relay to operate the fuel pump during testing.
ACTION: When testing the electric fuel pump, use the following new service procedure to check the fuel flow/pressure.
1. Locate self-test connector, in engine compartment.
a. Front Wheel Drive: Tempo/Topaz, Escort/Lynx, EXP - Connector is behind strut tower on right side of cowl.
b. Unibody, Rear Wheel Drive: Thunderbird/Cougar, Mustang/Capri, LTD/Marquis - Connector is just below starter solenoid between left strut tower and battery. Mark VII, Continental - Connector is underneath coolant overflow reservoir, right side of engine compartment.
c. Conventional Frame, Rear Wheel Drive: Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car - Connector is at left fender apron, near hood hinge.
d. E-Series (Van) - Connector is at inner right fender apron, tucked alongside battery.
e. F-Series, Conventional Pick-Up - Connector is at right fender apron, just below starter solenoid.
f. Ranger/Bronco 11 - Connector is at right fender apron, next to carbon canister, in front of heater blower motor.
g. Aerostar - Connector is at left fender apron.
2. The self-test connector has a fuel pump terminal which must be used to operate the electric fuel pump with "Off".
3. Connect a jumper lead to the terminal, Figure 14.
4. Turn ignition switch to "Run" position.
5. Energize fuel pump, by grounding jumper lead from self-test connector, and check fuel pressure. If there is no pressure, be sure pump is receiving power. If necessary, correct any circuit fault.
CAUTION: Only ground to fuel pump terminal, or damage may occur to the EEC IV processor.
LOW PRESSURE PUMP
Open fuel line at the high pressure pump inlet.
[*]Connect a hose to line from fuel tank. Route hose into a suitable container. [*]Disconnect the high pressure fuel pump electrical connector from body wiring harness. [*]Ground jumper lead from self-test connector to activate fuel pump, then measure fuel flow for 10 seconds. It may be necessary to block the fuel hose to prime low pressure pump. With the outlet opened and under no back pressure on the outlet, this is normal.[*]If fuel pump produces a minimum flow of 16 ounces of fuel in 10 seconds, the pump is operating properly. If there is no flow from the pump, check electrical circuit, inlets for restrictions and then replace pump if necessary.
You can test that. Disconnect the line that feeds the high pressure pump. Run that down to a glass or see through container. Have a helper turn the key on until you see gas. If you see gas you at least know the pump is working and at the same time you will see if there is any dirt or water in your system.
Last edited by kc0rey; 10-03-2011 at 09:17 PM.
10-17-2011, 07:39 PM
#72
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I've been having a similar problem with my '94 F150 although my starter hasn't failed me yet. Reading through the last two pages of replies reminded me of something a teacher told me in high school: when they started putting two fuel tanks in trucks people were constantly burning out the (I'm assuming low pressure/intank) fuel pumps because they were letting each tank run empty then switching over to the other one. He said that the pumps needed the fuel to run over them constantly in order to keep them from burning out prematurely. I don't know if that may have been your only problem and I haven't checked mine either but I suppose anything is possible right?
05-08-2016, 12:40 PM
#73
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okay so I have the same problem as you do rough idle but mine is a 1996 Ford econoline e150 with the 4.9l 300 straight 6. it all started with my pickup coil in distributor going out. So i replaced the distributor, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. And to my suprise once back together it had a little rough idle but all of a sudden a lot roupher and died. And previously to this I had thought it had a miss in a sense and not the power that these inline 6's should but at least it idled and didn't die. I thought that maybe i had out of time little bit. so I tried to advance the distributor and I found that i get it to idle better for a minute but then do the same but if I kept slowly moving it ahead I found a sweet spot where it'd idle great but push on the gas itd die instantly. I then double checked my timing and pulled number spark plug and found tdc. I then pulled cap and rotor was indeed pointing to number 1 and then I double checked rest of the wires and did have 153624 in order. But in the process found my crank positioning censor had a broken ear and wasnt even close to where it needed to be in position and so replaced it. Still the same a little worse. Not starting as well.
So I went through my vaccum lines and replaced some connections but nothing out a ordinary and when I sprayed soapy water no change in idle or arch in wires anywhere so I moved on.
So then I changed the fuel filter and idle air control which both needed as no difference when I unhooked the iac and filter looked original but yet no luck n now not starting as well.
But now I smelt like burning wire smell and my starter sounded like it didn't have enouph juice to roll over. Found that my battery cable connecting to it was super hot to the touch and the component it fastened to loose . So I new starter was bad and I had a bad ground somewhere from recent expieriences and researching. So I went on ahead and replaced starter, starter switch on firewall, replaced starter and coil wire from Switch and battery, replaced ground from battery to firewall, battery to engine block and one from body to the frame down by the old one under passenger side. There's the main one from battery ground and is bolted on with starter mounting bolts I was wondering if this is normal and I is it necessary if I already had one to the block direcrotch from battery?
Well all that being done hoped in it adjusted distributor a tad and fired it right up but still bad idle. So by more research I questioned egr and seemed it was stuck. so I thought it was sounding and running ok enouph n went about half mile to oreileys and got a new egr gasket and carb spray. When I left I got to the stop sign bout an eighth mile down road it got really worse and irratically idled low and died.
Since I haven't got it to start n stay running since. And u never wrote your outcome or diagnosis of the final issue or if you ever did figure it out. Can you please give me insight as I believe without a doubt my issue or issues are the exact same as yours.
also I did check tps and canister and checked out fine.
So I went through my vaccum lines and replaced some connections but nothing out a ordinary and when I sprayed soapy water no change in idle or arch in wires anywhere so I moved on.
So then I changed the fuel filter and idle air control which both needed as no difference when I unhooked the iac and filter looked original but yet no luck n now not starting as well.
But now I smelt like burning wire smell and my starter sounded like it didn't have enouph juice to roll over. Found that my battery cable connecting to it was super hot to the touch and the component it fastened to loose . So I new starter was bad and I had a bad ground somewhere from recent expieriences and researching. So I went on ahead and replaced starter, starter switch on firewall, replaced starter and coil wire from Switch and battery, replaced ground from battery to firewall, battery to engine block and one from body to the frame down by the old one under passenger side. There's the main one from battery ground and is bolted on with starter mounting bolts I was wondering if this is normal and I is it necessary if I already had one to the block direcrotch from battery?
Well all that being done hoped in it adjusted distributor a tad and fired it right up but still bad idle. So by more research I questioned egr and seemed it was stuck. so I thought it was sounding and running ok enouph n went about half mile to oreileys and got a new egr gasket and carb spray. When I left I got to the stop sign bout an eighth mile down road it got really worse and irratically idled low and died.
Since I haven't got it to start n stay running since. And u never wrote your outcome or diagnosis of the final issue or if you ever did figure it out. Can you please give me insight as I believe without a doubt my issue or issues are the exact same as yours.
also I did check tps and canister and checked out fine.