Changing tranny fluid in a E4OD
03-31-2015, 11:59 AM
#15
I did this a couple months ago and I have several pointers. There are a few mistakes that I will never make again:
1. Before dropping the pan, DOUBLE CHECK to make sure that you have removed all of the bolts (20 of them I believe). If you forget one, when you pull down on the pan to remove it, you will bend a corner of the pan. I did this, and am upset with myself for it
2. If you will be reusing the original pan and gasket, then just clean the pan mounting surface of the transmission with some brake cleaner before reattaching, following the fluid drain.
3. DO NOT torque the bolts down any tighter than 14ft lbs when you reattach the pan. You must use a torque wrench or you risk bending the pan. Ask me how I know... I had to replace the entire pan to stop a slow leak. If you are installing a new pan, the original bolts may not torque down tight, as the stock pan often has little dimples, making the rim slightly thicker than that of aftermarket pans. The solution to this problem includes buying new bolts... however the stock bolts have held my new aftermarket pan with no leaks even though they don't get very tight.
4. At all costs, I would avoid anything but a reusable gasket. When I went to replace my fluid I took the Ford OEM (reusable) gasket off, and thew it away to replace with the floppy rubber gasket in the kit. There is NO reason to replace the reusable gasket unless it is damaged. It is a much higher quality gasket than most kits are provided with. In addition to my replacement pan, I purchased an aftermarket reusable gasket with hard plastic and a steel core. This stopped my leak caused by the bent pan and cheap kit-gasket.
5. If you are looking to replace the pan, then consider a pan with the drain plug. After dropping that pan 3 times in the process of getting mine changed, I can vouch that is not a fun task and the drain plug makes this easier in the future.
6. Make sure to shift through all the gears manually, waiting for 20 seconds in between gears, after you pour in replacement fluid. If you don't do this, you don't fill in all the transmission voids, and might be fooled into thinking that the fluid level is correct. On the dipstick there are 2 little holes which indicate fluid level. There is also a cross-hatched area right above these holes -- You want the fluid to sit in the crosshatched area. Just keep in mind, that a single pint of fluid can take the fluid level shown on the dipstick from the bottom of the crosshatched area to the top.
7. When attaching the new tranny filter, make sure to remove the little plastic ring that often gets left behind in the hole that the old filter comes out of. The new filter needs to sit snuggly in this hole -- If you let go of the filter and it doesn't seem snug, or if it drifts or moves around much then you will need to apply a bit of force to get the filter snug in the hole. If you don't get the filter snug then there is a risk that it will fall out later on.
I think that's all! Good luck and put some newspapers or something down!
1. Before dropping the pan, DOUBLE CHECK to make sure that you have removed all of the bolts (20 of them I believe). If you forget one, when you pull down on the pan to remove it, you will bend a corner of the pan. I did this, and am upset with myself for it
2. If you will be reusing the original pan and gasket, then just clean the pan mounting surface of the transmission with some brake cleaner before reattaching, following the fluid drain.
3. DO NOT torque the bolts down any tighter than 14ft lbs when you reattach the pan. You must use a torque wrench or you risk bending the pan. Ask me how I know... I had to replace the entire pan to stop a slow leak. If you are installing a new pan, the original bolts may not torque down tight, as the stock pan often has little dimples, making the rim slightly thicker than that of aftermarket pans. The solution to this problem includes buying new bolts... however the stock bolts have held my new aftermarket pan with no leaks even though they don't get very tight.
4. At all costs, I would avoid anything but a reusable gasket. When I went to replace my fluid I took the Ford OEM (reusable) gasket off, and thew it away to replace with the floppy rubber gasket in the kit. There is NO reason to replace the reusable gasket unless it is damaged. It is a much higher quality gasket than most kits are provided with. In addition to my replacement pan, I purchased an aftermarket reusable gasket with hard plastic and a steel core. This stopped my leak caused by the bent pan and cheap kit-gasket.
5. If you are looking to replace the pan, then consider a pan with the drain plug. After dropping that pan 3 times in the process of getting mine changed, I can vouch that is not a fun task and the drain plug makes this easier in the future.
6. Make sure to shift through all the gears manually, waiting for 20 seconds in between gears, after you pour in replacement fluid. If you don't do this, you don't fill in all the transmission voids, and might be fooled into thinking that the fluid level is correct. On the dipstick there are 2 little holes which indicate fluid level. There is also a cross-hatched area right above these holes -- You want the fluid to sit in the crosshatched area. Just keep in mind, that a single pint of fluid can take the fluid level shown on the dipstick from the bottom of the crosshatched area to the top.
7. When attaching the new tranny filter, make sure to remove the little plastic ring that often gets left behind in the hole that the old filter comes out of. The new filter needs to sit snuggly in this hole -- If you let go of the filter and it doesn't seem snug, or if it drifts or moves around much then you will need to apply a bit of force to get the filter snug in the hole. If you don't get the filter snug then there is a risk that it will fall out later on.
I think that's all! Good luck and put some newspapers or something down!
03-31-2015, 12:12 PM
#16
Thanks that was helpful. I used a new dorman pan with the drain plug. After a few on the bolts felt like they stripped I thought the new pan was thin them the ford pan. Samething happened to me with the skyjacker ext. rear brake line. The piece that bolts too the axle wasn't as thick as the stock one.... Stupid sh-t...
03-31-2015, 12:26 PM
#17
I used the dorman pan as well -- Worked out well but same issue as you. I don't think the bolts are actually stripped, but rather they sort of run out of room to go in tighter. Either way, it sounds like it worked out fine.