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Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement

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Old 12-10-2014, 02:06 PM
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Two things:

I left my gap alone out of the box of SP-534's that I bought a month ago and installed. They all measured right at 0.030. IMO, you can sometimes do more harm than good if you don't use a gapping tool just right. Touching the tips at all can be very detrimental.

I also don't like the idea of using air to spray off dust while the coil packs are out and especially while the plug is out. I think this could also be more harm than good. I would agree that blowing off loose dirt and debris before you start is a good idea though.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:12 PM
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Yes, blowing compressed air down the coil hole with the plug out seems counter-productive to me as well. I always apply compressed air before removing the plug and that's it.
Old 12-11-2014, 02:34 PM
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Well it looks like I'll be going through the spark plug replacement. I'm getting a slight miss anywhere form 50-70mph when going up a hill/light acceleration. Unfortunately, I don't have a heated garage or the tools to tackle this so it looks like I'll be blowing my money at the Ford dealer! Hopefully that fixes the issue!
Old 12-12-2014, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
When I changed mine on my '11, it was like someone torqued them to stay. I actually had to use a cheater on my ratchet to get enough leverage to break them loose. I have read that using anti seize is tricky as it can lead to over torquing. What is your experience with that?
The first time I took the plugs out of my '12 they were tough to get out as well and that was only at 9K miles. Ever since I've put just a tiny dab of anti-seize on them and just tighten down by grabbing the head of the ratchet and firmly tighten. No problems with them coming out or being hard to get out. I run a tight gap for my tunes(.025) with excellent results.
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
It kind of remindes me of my old 71 cougar. Has a 351 Cleveland. It ate plugs and points. I don't mind though. I've never enjoyed driving an engine in my life as I have the Eco.
Just about all the Ford engines of that era where hard on plugs, my old Mustang had to be regapped about every 3K miles. But we didn't put as many miles on our cars back then, so it wasn't too big a pain in the ***.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:53 PM
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Just completed my plug and boot change last night. Truck has 28k miles on it and had a slight shuddering problem. Old plugs were all around .035-.036 when I pulled them out. New SP-534's at .030 went in. Didn't start it up and drive it til this morning when I went out to do some Christmas shopping and the shuddering went away. I've only had this truck for a couple of weeks so I'm looking into what else I can do to help avoid any future problems. I've read through all the catch can debate threads, but for the money, I might buy one here pretty soon.
Old 12-17-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeysfx4
Just completed my plug and boot change last night. Truck has 28k miles on it and had a slight shuddering problem. Old plugs were all around .035-.036 when I pulled them out. New SP-534's at .030 went in. Didn't start it up and drive it til this morning when I went out to do some Christmas shopping and the shuddering went away. I've only had this truck for a couple of weeks so I'm looking into what else I can do to help avoid any future problems. I've read through all the catch can debate threads, but for the money, I might buy one here pretty soon.
Try a free mod first. Drill a small hole in your intercooler.
Old 12-18-2014, 07:24 AM
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I dont know if this is off topic of plugs but ive been noticing that if im 3/4 throttle my truck will accelerate good then lose power for a split second and than go again? Its a 13 ecoboost with 3.31s and MPT performance race tune 11k miles. Please let me know where to post, thank you.
Old 12-20-2014, 11:19 AM
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so does the tsb from ford possibly cover the cost to have a dealer change the boots/plugs?? after watching the video I think I can handle it but why not have them do it for me. I have noted in many threads the issues with my truck mpg's and the hesitation upon acceleration and it has to be the plugs. I would love to give this a chance to make me an EB fan
Old 12-20-2014, 01:09 PM
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If there's no code showing up on diagnostic, you will have to pay for the plug replacement. I saw where someone posted it cost them around 300 dollars.


Ridiculous.
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