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Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement

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Old 12-07-2014, 03:27 PM
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Default Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement

Ok so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently. I hope this helps.

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Old 12-07-2014, 04:21 PM
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Wish I had you around when I did my plugs last week! I had a hell of a time trying to disconnect the coil packs from the connector!

I broke the 1st red tab I tried to remove, so I left them connected when I did my plug change! I picked up a new red tab lock thingy for free at my local dealer, thanks Dave Sinclair!
Old 12-07-2014, 09:37 PM
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When I changed mine on my '11, it was like someone torqued them to stay. I actually had to use a cheater on my ratchet to get enough leverage to break them loose. I have read that using anti seize is tricky as it can lead to over torquing. What is your experience with that?
Old 12-08-2014, 01:28 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to post the video.
Old 12-08-2014, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
When I changed mine on my '11, it was like someone torqued them to stay. I actually had to use a cheater on my ratchet to get enough leverage to break them loose. I have read that using anti seize is tricky as it can lead to over torquing. What is your experience with that?
The textbook answer is that you should reduce the torque value by 10% with lubricated threads. However, this past weekend when I replaced my plugs I literally put my plugs in by hand with one of those knurled **** close quarters ratchets from Harbor Freight and when I used the torque wrench set at 133 in/lbs it barely moved before it clicked....I mean the handle of the torque wrench moved less than 3/8" before it clicked!!!

The new plugs gapped at 0.030" eliminated the "misfire" shudder-stumble when accelerating. I guess I'll have to remove the plugs every 25k for re-gapping and replace every 50k. Never owned a vehicle that needed such attention before.

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Old 12-08-2014, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mcfarmall
The textbook answer is that you should reduce the torque value by 10% with lubricated threads. However, this past weekend when I replaced my plugs I literally put my plugs in by hand with one of those knurled **** close quarters ratchets from Harbor Freight and when I used the torque wrench set at 133 in/lbs it barely moved before it clicked....I mean the handle of the torque wrench moved less than 3/8" before it clicked!!! The new plugs gapped at 0.030" eliminated the "misfire" shudder-stumble when accelerating. I guess I'll have to remove the plugs every 25k for re-gapping and replace every 50k. Never owned a vehicle that needed such attention before.
It kind of remindes me of my old 71 cougar. Has a 351 Cleveland. It ate plugs and points. I don't mind though. I've never enjoyed driving an engine in my life as I have the Eco.
Old 12-09-2014, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenferg1
(snip) I've never enjoyed driving an engine in my life as I have the Eco.
It definitely is fun to drive!! For me 25k is just under two years so it's a good time to take the plugs out and lubricated the threads anyway.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:53 AM
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Did I hear you state the best gap is 0.028?
Old 12-09-2014, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bigwilly11189
Did I hear you state the best gap is 0.028?
Yes the dude on the vid stated 0.028". I was already finished with the job when I watched the vid.
Old 12-10-2014, 01:12 AM
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Just ordered the plugs and boots for my fx4. Just got it a couple of weeks ago from fx4tt and noticed a bit of the shuddering on some trips around town.


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