11-14 5.0L lower belt tensioner removal
#1
11-14 5.0L lower belt tensioner removal
I asked this question in a recent post but seeing as it's unrelated to the original topic I figure that maybe it makes sense to start a new thread. Since you have to remove the lower tensioner to gain access to the alternator I have a feeling that I'm not the only one asking this question. I simply want to replace it along with my belts.
Specifically, what I'm trying to figure out is the correct procedure for releasing tension on the lower tensioner which services the water pump and alternator. Whereas the upper tensioner has a key for a socket drive, the lower tensioner doesn't include an index. Is the correct procedure to use the hex nut located on the pulley itself? It would seam that rotating the tensioner counter clockwise would simply loosen the nut?
The following links are related:
Here is a good picture of the belt configuration:
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/98620...ntine-belt.jpg
Alternator procedure:
https://www.f150forum.com/f70/5-0-al...cement-271536/
Has anybody done this?
Specifically, what I'm trying to figure out is the correct procedure for releasing tension on the lower tensioner which services the water pump and alternator. Whereas the upper tensioner has a key for a socket drive, the lower tensioner doesn't include an index. Is the correct procedure to use the hex nut located on the pulley itself? It would seam that rotating the tensioner counter clockwise would simply loosen the nut?
The following links are related:
Here is a good picture of the belt configuration:
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/98620...ntine-belt.jpg
Alternator procedure:
https://www.f150forum.com/f70/5-0-al...cement-271536/
Has anybody done this?
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You should be able to relieve tension by using the hex bolt for the pulley on the tensioner, these are often left hand threaded specifically so that they don't loosen when trying to move the tensioner.
However sometimes they aren't left hand threaded (typically in cheap replacements), in this case if it does happen to loosen before moving the tensioner then just tighten it more and try to move the tensioner again, it just has to be tight enough so that the force required to loosen the bolt is higher than the force required to move the tensioner.
However sometimes they aren't left hand threaded (typically in cheap replacements), in this case if it does happen to loosen before moving the tensioner then just tighten it more and try to move the tensioner again, it just has to be tight enough so that the force required to loosen the bolt is higher than the force required to move the tensioner.
The following 2 users liked this post by SALEEN961:
JLTD (10-30-2016),
midwestern (10-27-2016)
#3
Thanks
It's the original part so it's probably reverse threaded if they followed the convention. I wasn't 100% sure if the hex bolt was the correct anchor point or if I was missing something. I appreciate the advice.
It's the original part so it's probably reverse threaded if they followed the convention. I wasn't 100% sure if the hex bolt was the correct anchor point or if I was missing something. I appreciate the advice.