Rattle upon acceleration
08-01-2011, 12:40 PM
#11
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a ton of our motors still have a tick/rattle in them even after doing all the regular maintance. is very noticable on mine whenever i go through a drive through and right next to a building with the reverb. i call it the "Triton Tick" and have come to accept this is what they do.
unless its throwing codes when its doing it i wouldnt worry to much about it.
08-01-2011, 02:55 PM
#12
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Mine does it as well....at lower RPM from 1500 to 2000......gets even louder when I put my programer into any other mode but stock.....let me know if you ever get it figured out. I would love to make it go away.
08-01-2011, 07:16 PM
#14
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I have the same problem with my 04 FX4 screw. It is really noticeable when it gets under load, like on a hill or when the rpms start dropping before it downshifts into another gear. I had just had the spark plugs changed. Pretty sure it is spark knock because it wasn't doing it before i had them changed.
08-04-2011, 05:22 PM
#16
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Same problem but this is my fix.
After i changed the censor like everyone said which didn't work for me, I checked my vaccum pressure and i ended finding and fixing the vaccum leak. But that also was not the mainproblem of the rattle noise I had. Finally I replaced the acuator assymbly on my left side, and that fixed most the noise so i did the same to the right and that fixed the noise. I now ride in silence once again.
08-07-2011, 12:37 AM
#18
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Welcome to the beauty of the 5.4!
Not sure if this is your problem, but it was mine...
When they want to do something, ask them if they are 100% sure that it will fix the problem.
When you leave with it, drive the #%$& out of it - especially under load and up steep inclines on the freeway. Target acceleration from top gear at freeway speed while on inclines or under load.
See if it has hesitation or what sounds like a backfire with a corresponding loss of power.
Note: truck does perform better after fresh oil change, but it isn't fixed.
Error codes always come up as some sort of lean condition.
This may not be exactly what the situation is, but it happened to me.
While under warranty, I was not a big enough jerk to pressure my dealer to fix the problem correctly.
At 30k, when it was running poorly with the above symptoms.
1st... after 5,000 between oil changes at 32k (my truck is just a glorified city/freeway minivan), I was told the problem was just dirty oil causing the hydraulic lifters to have issues.
--- problem started returning shortly after.
2nd... at 34k, I was told it was a MAF... the "didn't test drive due to bad weather conditions".
3rd... at 38k, I was told it was the intake airbox being warped and not sealing properly.
After none of those fixed the problem, I wound up giving up and just dealing with it instead of being a ***** to the dealership.
Finally, at 90k or so, a private place actually did more than just check error codes and simple fixes and eventually traced it to the not so well know outside of very close dealer channels problem of being a timing chain issue couple with the more commonly know cam phaser/guides issues. Essentially, the factory has kept it silent that there are timing chain issues with SOME (not all) 5.4s and have actually replaced or split the cost for replacement of the engines in these trucks.
It is something that is had to pinpoint, because little fixes seem to mask it for a while - especially new oil - especially since it is only under load and heavy throttle where it starts to show. From there it just gets progressively worse. You still have the same gas mileage. It still starts and runs... and runs a long time... my symptoms started at 30k and I am at 105k now... you just learn to drive it that way and move on... now, I'm just waiting to find a good deal on a temporary car and/or driving it until it ultimately fails before dropping in a new/reman motor.
Not sure if this is your problem, but it was mine...
When they want to do something, ask them if they are 100% sure that it will fix the problem.
When you leave with it, drive the #%$& out of it - especially under load and up steep inclines on the freeway. Target acceleration from top gear at freeway speed while on inclines or under load.
See if it has hesitation or what sounds like a backfire with a corresponding loss of power.
Note: truck does perform better after fresh oil change, but it isn't fixed.
Error codes always come up as some sort of lean condition.
This may not be exactly what the situation is, but it happened to me.
While under warranty, I was not a big enough jerk to pressure my dealer to fix the problem correctly.
At 30k, when it was running poorly with the above symptoms.
1st... after 5,000 between oil changes at 32k (my truck is just a glorified city/freeway minivan), I was told the problem was just dirty oil causing the hydraulic lifters to have issues.
--- problem started returning shortly after.
2nd... at 34k, I was told it was a MAF... the "didn't test drive due to bad weather conditions".
3rd... at 38k, I was told it was the intake airbox being warped and not sealing properly.
After none of those fixed the problem, I wound up giving up and just dealing with it instead of being a ***** to the dealership.
Finally, at 90k or so, a private place actually did more than just check error codes and simple fixes and eventually traced it to the not so well know outside of very close dealer channels problem of being a timing chain issue couple with the more commonly know cam phaser/guides issues. Essentially, the factory has kept it silent that there are timing chain issues with SOME (not all) 5.4s and have actually replaced or split the cost for replacement of the engines in these trucks.
It is something that is had to pinpoint, because little fixes seem to mask it for a while - especially new oil - especially since it is only under load and heavy throttle where it starts to show. From there it just gets progressively worse. You still have the same gas mileage. It still starts and runs... and runs a long time... my symptoms started at 30k and I am at 105k now... you just learn to drive it that way and move on... now, I'm just waiting to find a good deal on a temporary car and/or driving it until it ultimately fails before dropping in a new/reman motor.
08-07-2011, 10:02 PM
#20
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I took apart my intake and throttle body to clean the MAF and now I have a rattle too. I figured it was the cheap plastic housing not "meshing" correctly on reinstall since it was usually happening from 1st to 2nd around 3300 RPM. However, mines sporadic...happens at some red lights but not all. I completely went through the housing today checking for any loose bolts...nothing! I'll check the heat shield and 4WD actuators. To the heat shield issue, where did you begin looking first? Any tips or tricks? Same question for the actuators? I really appreciate the advice so far guys, I too am not throwing any codes but I hate being in this Georgia heat with the windows down on a nice day and accelerating with the this "rattle" for about 10 seconds. Really kills the cool factor, ya know? BTW, it's an 07 FX4 5.4 3V that just rolled the 100K mark.