jonnygt

Well, my 2007 Lariat Screw 4x4 with the 5.4L 3V flex fuel is due for the phasers, timing set and all the fun stuff.

I want to do all the big hardware while I have it torn down. I've started to collect the parts to do the job.

I'm just undecided on which oil pump to go with.

My choices:
Melling M340
Melling M360
Ford Racing

The truck is my daily driver and HSS 92k miles. I do occasionly tow a car trailer and motorcycle trailer.

Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks-
Jon

redfishtd

I have put the melling 360 on it at this time . I bought it off amazon even though it says it doesn't fit my 5.4l ,the comments section says amazon wrong --it does fit .
I put a new pump on it because its at 160k and the guide pieces were in my oil pan and jamming my oil screen .
I'm trying to put tensioner on the drivers side now ,having trouble getting enough slack to mount . I took cams out and replaced all the lash adj and rollers . I've got it set with timing tool on the crankshaft no.1 at tdc , chain gear dot at 6 oclock . .
I guess the cam has to rotate back towards the tensioner and push some valves down . .I tried leaving the cam loose but not enough slack in the chains . Don't have the valve comp tool to remove rollers and put them back in the tight confines anyway . Wish I knew more than I do . Still thinking-- have been going slow taking my time .

F150Torqued

@redfishtd


I recently did the same job you are doing. As you have done, I set engine properly before beginning. I had the valve spring comp tool - but found it too much of a PITA. Finally just noted cam orientation and removed them - placed all lifters and followers "gently" in place "VERY gently" set cam back in place (PROPERLY ORIENTED) and sequentially tightened cam journals. Valve tension of course moved cam backwards as you are experiencing. After installing the Phasers and torqueing Phaser bolts I just moved the cam (against valve spring tension) to the point chains could be aligned with timing marks. Only downside - It took two people. My friend used a breaker bar on phaser bolt to overcome spring tension and move phasers while I placed the chains on. I think the big consideration in using this method is having cams in their original orientation - so you don't have to rotate them past any point of piston/valve contact. You WONT if they move no more than they will to relieve the valve spring tension.


As for the oil pump. I choose the Melling 10340 and it improved hot idle oil pressure from around 16-17 lbs to 24-25 on my 212,000 mile engine. https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...2/#post4587382


Edit: I also remember that I had to use a pry bar (screw driver) against tensioner arm to get the tensioner bolt started on the drivers side. I thought it might have been the fact that I used MMR metal tensioner arms and cast iron tensioners - but IDK.

redfishtd

My problem is the valve springs just push it back after installation of tensioner creating way too much slack on the driver side so it could easily jump time . Spring on tensioner can't hold it from rotating clockwise . I am stumped at this time . What am I doing wrong .
dot on gear is at 6 o'clock number 5 cyl has the cam lobe on pushing down on exhaust , No 1 cyl is at top dead center . Driver cam is sequentially torqued down all rollers in .
Haven't moved motor since I put alignment tool on crank shaft .
Help !

jonnygt

Thanks for the input guys.

Looks like Melling is the way to go. I see a few people here running the M360 and Jasper Engines runs the M360.

M360 it is. Time to get on Amazon and order it.

Thanks-
Jon

F150Torqued

Sounds like you have the engine positioned correctly (timing dot at 6) and haven't moved it. If you get Phaser's on with chain marks straddling R & L, you are going to have it timed right. I "THINK" you are OK. The valve springs present a shocking amount of torque on the phasers - and it is not always in the same direction.


But the above quoted statement raises a couple of questions. I presume you have pulled the tensioner grenade pin - since referring to the "Spring on Tensioner"? That would be normal with NO oil pressure to assist the spring in the tensioner. The "spring" isn't intended to do the whole trick alone. And when you rotate the engine by hand (no oil pressure), you will witness "some" chain slack at different positions. BUT - with new chains - that should NEVER be enough to allow the chain to even NEARLY move across one gear tooth.


I just sent you some documentation - check your PMs.


Good Luck

R00sterC0g6urn

I'm running a melling 10340 with good luck so far. I have no way to testing pressure but the dummy gauge on the dash sits higher than it used to. I liked the 10340 because it is a higher pressure pump than oem with same volume, and I hear that these engines need as much help with pressure as possible. From everything I read, the 360 has same pressure and volume as oem so I didn't see any advantage to this pump. Someone else chime in if I'm a little off on my understanding of these pumps.

I absolutely recommend buying the valve spring compressor tool for this job, it's a little pricey and somewhat cumbersome working in the engine bay but I had zero complications with fighting a turning camshaft with all the rollers out.

F150Torqued

@ R00sterC0g6urn


I agree with everything you have said about oil pumps and volume / pressure stuff except that part about the idiot gauge. These engines do not even have an analogue sensor from which the ECU can determine oil pressure. The ECU sees a binary switch closure and sets that stupid dash gauge at its fixed position slightly above half way.


I think it borders on negligent misrepresentation to take a mechanical switch closure (oil pressure SWITCH) designed to switch between 5-7 psi, and display the closed condition as mid-range on a nice looking little analogue gauge on the instrument cluster marked “L” | “H”. Especially when it requires apparently 20 psi or so reliably operate the VVT system.


But THAT's the way Ford does it. I highly recommend an after market gauge. But be ready to watch pressure range ALL the way from around 20 lbs up to 90 lbs depending on engine temperature and RPMs. Apparently that's why Ford does it that way - the masses are more comfortable seeing that "steady" reading saying oil pressure is "OK".

R00sterC0g6urn

I know those gauges are in no way accurate. I guess my eyes were playing tricks on me especially since I never paid a whole lot of attention to that gauge before swapping pumps anyway. Thanks for explaining how it actually works though, very interesting.

jonnygt

Well, I ended up ordering the Melling 10340.

Wish me luck with his project, lol.

Thanks-
Jon