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Lucas Oil stabilizer

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Old 09-13-2012, 05:41 AM
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I'm not gonna touch the lucas issue, but as far as thinner oil worst idea ever. I test engines for a living for one of the big 3. Unless an engines internal clearances were designed with using a 0w or 5w oil in mind then it can cause major issues. I have seen new engines blow up from using those oils, especially the 0w oils. Best thing to do is run a high quality full synthetic oil in your truck. My dads 98 5.4 used to do the same rattle on start up. I got him to switch to royal purple (now amsoil) and it hasn't done it since. I run 10W30 royal purple in my truck, doesn't tick on start up. Ford made the recommendation to us 5w20 in the 4.6/5.4 for the sole reason of increased fuel economy. Do your tuck a favor and run a heavier weight full synthetic oil, your VCT and your engine with thank you.
Old 09-13-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Oxy84
I'm not gonna touch the lucas issue, but as far as thinner oil worst idea ever. I test engines for a living for one of the big 3. Unless an engines internal clearances were designed with using a 0w or 5w oil in mind then it can cause major issues. I have seen new engines blow up from using those oils, especially the 0w oils. Best thing to do is run a high quality full synthetic oil in your truck. My dads 98 5.4 used to do the same rattle on start up. I got him to switch to royal purple (now amsoil) and it hasn't done it since. I run 10W30 royal purple in my truck, doesn't tick on start up. Ford made the recommendation to us 5w20 in the 4.6/5.4 for the sole reason of increased fuel economy. Do your tuck a favor and run a heavier weight full synthetic oil, your VCT and your engine with thank you.
Worst idea ever? So all the OEMs that are using 0w20 are terribly out of line? You do realize the 0w is at cold temps and is still thicker than the operating viscosity? Ford recommends 5w20 for these trucks even where CAFE is not a factor and recommends higher viscosity only when 5w20 is not available, so solely for fuel mileage isn't quite accurate.

I tested several things for the SAE so I'm open to debate, but all the data points that cold flow is very important.
Old 09-13-2012, 09:12 PM
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I worked at a POS used car lot and bought Lucas by the case, Im a believer. Transmission, oil, and power steering, its all good. Transmissions shift smooth, engines have higher oil pressure and are less noisy and power steering pumps get quieter.

Just my experience, but I only used a case a month for two years....
Old 09-14-2012, 04:53 AM
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Otto, that is pretty cool that you did some work for SAE. A lot of the testing I do follows SAE guide lines, unless it is a non standard test that we created in house. And I agree that oil flow at cold start up temperatures is very important to the life of the engine. One of the tests we run deals with how quickly the engine develops oil pressure at start up.

My experience with 0w20 has come in two ways. The first time it was tried was in an existing engine platform for the coming model year. We had a lot of problems failing main and rod bearings in the engine due to lower than normal oil pressures. On one of the engines that was tripping the low oil pressure safety we drained the 0w20 and replaced it with the 5w20 that the engine was designed to run with. The problem was no longer there and the engine completed its test successfully. The next example was a new engine program that they were working with new bearing tolerances so that they could run the 0w20 oil. It took quite a few sets of main bearings being destroyed until they got the tolerances close enough to run that oil. So my point with that is unless it was designed to run that oil from day one I have seen it cause problems.

As far as Fords recommendation for 5w20 in non CAFE areas. A lot of the manufactures use global engineering standards. They design the engine to be used in several platforms and markets. So they would use one oil for all the applications of that engine. It makes R&D and manufacturing cheaper. I have also seen many corners be cut in the name of fuel economy. If running a lighter weight oil gives even a 1% gain in fuel economy they will do it. Even if it means the safety margin on things like oil pressure is tighter. Most of the development work done by the manufacturers today is looking for every last drop of fuel economy they can find. This is another reason the stock calibration for the 5.4L is run so lean.

One question for you, have you ever tested any of the new DEXOS labeled oils that are coming out on the market? The manufacturer that I work for started testing them several years ago with great results. In fact they protected so well against wear that we ran normal Mobil 1 in the engines so that they would actually break in the main and rod bearings.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:30 PM
  #15  
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but is the general consensus on this a no? I have a bottle of this sitting around and I was going to throw 1 qt in with 6 qts M1 5w20 next change.

Also what's the consensus with their 75w-140 gear oil? I wanted to use that with my diff change...item 10122
Old 06-23-2016, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 650NutKase
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but is the general consensus on this a no? I have a bottle of this sitting around and I was going to throw 1 qt in with 6 qts M1 5w20 next change. Also what's the consensus with their 75w-140 gear oil? I wanted to use that with my diff change...item 10122
It's simple. Don't add anything to your crankcase besides the recommended oil. In my 46 years I have never felt the need to dump a bottle of snake oil in my engine. Nor have I suffered any ill effects by not doing so
Old 06-23-2016, 05:58 PM
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I'll defer back to what I said in November.
Originally Posted by Martian
Lucas... yeah, avoid all that crap. I get it, I'm going to get yelled at by a bunch of old dudes whose last sixteen generations have used it in their cotton gins and logic machines but that doesn't mean it works. Head over to BITOG and read the data sheets.

Oil stabilizer is garbage. All it really is oil thickener. Oil doesn't need to be stabilized.

Now I will say their stop-chatter works pretty well on transmissions, but again, it's basically just really thick oil, nothing magical.

Their fuel system cleaner technically does work but barely. It does contain polyetheramine, like any real fuel system cleaner has, but if you want one that will do an actual job, use Techron or Redline S-1 or Gumout (with Regane). Stop separating money from your wallet on "injector cleaner" or "upper cylinder lubricant."
Old 06-23-2016, 09:38 PM
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What about the gear oil?
Old 06-23-2016, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 650NutKase
What about the gear oil?
Seriously? Run the recommended gear oil found in your owners manual and call it a day. Why people over think this crap blows my mind
Old 06-23-2016, 11:05 PM
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Just a question sweetheart. It meets the gl5 recommendation, so I guess it's fine


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