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I'm holding it open. Looks to have an air tight seal. And no clasp or clamping mech. Can I glue and clamp it? Is this likely the problem?
I'll check out the link and check the 3 check valve.
Yes, when I ran compressed air through the larger vac line I disconnected vac lines from both drive and passenger side and from the new iwe solenoid . After a second or two I heard a loud pop!
I pulled the vac lines off at solenoid and didn't seem to have vacuum. Or pressure. I'll read the provided info.
I really appreciate the help
I'm holding it open. Looks to have an air tight seal. And no clasp or clamping mech. Can I glue and clamp it? Is this likely the problem?
I'll check out the link and check the 3 check valve.
Yes, when I ran compressed air through the larger vac line I disconnected vac lines from both drive and passenger side and from the new iwe solenoid . After a second or two I heard a loud pop!
I pulled the vac lines off at solenoid and didn't seem to have vacuum. Or pressure. I'll read the provided info.
I really appreciate the help
Yup, that's the critter and its totally FUBAR. You could try gluing it, as long as its airtight and can hold vacuum it should work. If not they're only like $25 at Tasca so they aren't expensive.
I haven't really examined mine to see how it's sealed but its not clamped or anything, friction or frequency welded would be my guess.
Removing the vacuum lines at the locations you did really limits any damage that could have been done with the compressed air. The reservoir should be the only casualty.
When you replaced your actuators are you sure you torqued the axle nut down good? I made this mistake once in a hurried job and my actuators weren't engaging completely cause I didn't torque the nut completely down
Last edited by alsatropine; 10-08-2015 at 08:59 AM.
Reason: misspelled.. autocorrect. ugh!
Unfortunately I do not have the pump vacuum tester. When I was in town after this all happened I was looking at the cvs where the go into the vac hubs and noticed a gap. As if it wasn't seated properly. I pulled it out inspected cleaned greased and reinstalled the driver side cv. It was a bit of a pain to get it in deep. I found if I left the vac hub loose tightened cv nut first the vac hub I was able to get it in without having the gap. After this was done I was feeling like 'cool, that was prob the issue but the noise persisted.
I noticed that the outer edge of the gear teeth on the cv where alittle rough. Or was it the new vac hub. Hmm. Not sure. But I remember thinking I probably need to get new wheel hubs and cvs.
I'm planning on changing out my entire front end in the next month or two, to a jd fab LT kit with king shocks. I'm pretty sure throughout this job I'm on with this very bad 15 mile dirt road approach I'll end up destroying my front end. Anyone have advice for aftermarket hubs, cvs , that are stronger ?
I'm also growing concerned about my rack and pinion . With my 35" MTs and pulling heavy loads trailers, heck just driving empty the rocky washboard is brutal.
Been airing tires down. Helps quite a bit . Really don't like the billstein 5100s.
I ordered a new vac res from the ford dealer. I just need to make the drive to go get it. No hurry as I'm living at work, not going anywhere.
I glued up my vac res with some PVC abs plumbing glue. Was looking for some plastic weld epoxy but no find. Was the best I could come up with. So later I'll try it out and see if it holds. I glued the hell out of it and left clamped for a solid 24 hours . Then added another coat.
Last night I installed a real life oil pressure gauge. It was a long time coming so I'm super stoked on that. Just need to install the gauge on dash and such. And hope I don't end up with hot oil in my cab ;
I ran the brass line I believe . That comes as a kit for gauges. Then fed it through some thick vacuum hose. I sure hope that doesn't somehow make things bad.
The guys I talked to at an auto part store said the plastic line was good. I've heard there are pros and cons for both ?
Running the line do close by the engine / exhaust makes me a little nervous .
So we shall see.
So many different things to work on with this truck!
When installing the CV Nut . The second time that day. When trying to pull the gears together in mesh, I heard a little pop sort . Thinking maybe I went too tight and hurt a bearing?
Then when I came back a second to check it, it wasn't that tight. Hmm. Idk what the torque is supposed to be at for that nut. Always gather conflicting info. So I went fairly wrench snug and backed off a tad .
I need to go through it all again and check things out in a leisurely fashion. Hopefully this afternoon. I'll take some fotos of this gear teeth and see if I can ya'all opinion.
I really appreciate the communications perspective info and advice .
Oh so thankful!
Unfortunately I do not have the pump vacuum tester. When I was in town after this all happened I was looking at the cvs where the go into the vac hubs and noticed a gap. As if it wasn't seated properly. I pulled it out inspected cleaned greased and reinstalled the driver side cv. It was a bit of a pain to get it in deep. I found if I left the vac hub loose tightened cv nut first the vac hub I was able to get it in without having the gap.
The ford procedure is to pull air out of the actuators with a pump and then cap them off prior to tightening things up but its not necessary as long as everything is properly aligned BEFORE you tighten the axle nut. Best way to do that is to spin the rotors in both directions a few times with everything in place, this should ensure the splines have meshed properly. If the halfshaft isn't spinning with the rotors something is wrong. If course, if the splines on the hub, actuator or halfshaft are badly damaged, it could cause issues getting things to mesh. Once you are sure everything has meshed and you have proper alignment the three actuator bolts can be installed and tightened. Spin the rotors in both directions a couple times to check everything for good measure and then install the axle nut, 20 ftlb.
After this was done I was feeling like 'cool, that was prob the issue but the noise persisted.
Are you getting the noise with the vacuum disconnected? The noise isn't going to go away unless you have proper vacuum. If you still get the noise with the vacuum disconnected, something is seriously wrong.
Anyone have advice for aftermarket hubs, cvs , that are stronger ?
OEM are plenty strong but Moog make some quality hubs.
The guys I talked to at an auto part store said the plastic line was good. I've heard there are pros and cons for both ?
While I trust the accuracy of a mechanical gauge, the potential damage that can occur if the line fails is too great to take the risk if you ask me. I like the electric guages for that reason, but that's just my opinion.
The nylon lines are easier to install but too weak for my liking. Copper is harder to install but is stronger. The copper does tend to get brittle over time and can get stress cracks from vibration so you have to keep an eye on it. Copper should also have a loop in it to alow flexing.
The ford procedure is to pull air out of the actuators with a pump and then cap them off prior to tightening things up but its not necessary as long as everything is properly aligned BEFORE you tighten the axle nut. Best way to do that is to spin the rotors in both directions a few times with everything in place, this should ensure the splines have meshed properly. If the halfshaft isn't spinning with the rotors something is wrong. If course, if the splines on the hub, actuator or halfshaft are badly damaged, it could cause issues getting things to mesh. Once you are sure everything has meshed and you have proper alignment the three actuator bolts can be installed and tightened. Spin the rotors in both directions a couple times to check everything for good measure and then install the axle nut, 20 ftlb.
Are you getting the noise with the vacuum disconnected? The noise isn't going to go away unless you have proper vacuum. If you still get the noise with the vacuum disconnected, something is seriously wrong.
OEM are plenty strong but Moog make some quality hubs.
While I trust the accuracy of a mechanical gauge, the potential damage that can occur if the line fails is too great to take the risk if you ask me. I like the electric guages for that reason, but that's just my opinion.
The nylon lines are easier to install but too weak for my liking. Copper is harder to install but is stronger. The copper does tend to get brittle over time and can get stress cracks from vibration so you have to keep an eye on it. Copper should also have a loop in it to alow flexing.
Thanks for info stranger. Especially regarding vac hubs and cv's.
When I disconnected the lines I had it in 4 high. For about 15 miles of horrible dirt road to my destination . I did not try driving with lined off in 2 wheel.
I ordered a new vac res from ford. But never got around to picking it up. As it's not exactly close . I glued up the broken res . And put it in. Was planning to get new one. Hopefully soon.
Invested little time I had into working on oil pressure gauge. Not super comfortable with the idea of these fragile little brass fittings . But for now , I'll make due and check for leaks often.
On my way out the dirt road tonight decided I'd stop a wire the lights on gauge so I could see them ; and noticed a splash spatter type thing going on. Think the gauge compressed fitting leaked alittle. Tightened a bit seems good. Checked connection at sending unit. Leaking like a ****. A slow drop anyway. So along the way I stopped 4 or 5 times checking cleaning tightening . Little by little untill it's finally good. I've got the brass line insulated a pretty well secured and ran the best line I could. Not enough length for a coil or loop. With the amount of dirt road I drive I feel I'd most likely be better off with a digital or electric gauge . Or I decide to stay with mech maybe come up with a different setup. I've heard of some using steel braided.
So I'm on the road . 65 mph 60~62 psi on oil pressure.
Not in 4 wheel . I don't think . Seemed the glue up worked on that plastic vac res. and my inexperienced install of the vac hub cv stuff was working . BUT, ocassionally I get this sound . Just like the one I had before . It's not horrible . It sounds like wind blowing sortof. If I let off the accelerator it stops the noise. Thinking msybe that glue up gas a leak or somewhere there is a vac leak. Or likely my install of everything was less than proper.
This is quite challenging for me.
I've gotta figure this out before I really f some Shiz up.
I've got big plans for this truck.
It would be so much easier to take it to a shop. Maybe the wise choice. Although I'm pretty broke at the moment . And I really want to learn and understand all of this. So when I'm in the middle of nowhere alone and have issues, I can handle it.
This is the first vehicle ive really worked on. I know my way with tools and the like. As I build structures. But this automobile thing is pretty new to me. Mans I'm very grateful for to buoy and those that are helping me along this road .
Seems I'll start over and keep going till I get it right. ...
I'm new here I am sorry about posting this here as I am not sure how to start. I read the intro message but still confussed.
I'm looking for a video of how to change the vacuum hose for my 4x4 2008 f150
10-07-2015, 03:46 PM
