bspangler

I feel your pain there. Looks like I'll be doing the same except my exhaust shop doesn't want to tackle the job. So now off to either the dealership or a local mechanic. Good luck on your truck! Keep us posted.

mrslyfox

I removed all of mine 2 years ago on my 94, had zero problems and a few were really I'm need of replacement! Might give eh a shout of penetrating oil the night before, and right before you do it. Also, if you get to one that seems stuck, out a little pressure the other direction like you are tightening then loosening, try working it back and forth and will usually come out. Also might give em a few his with a hammer, just a little shock blow to help break em loose. I need to replace them again as I just replaced with bolts, need to get the stud kit.
Take some pics and let us know how it goes. Good luck to ya!

Newfiedan

well here is an update for you, the muffler shop quote 7.1 hrs to remove and replace one exhaust manifold and another 15 min per broken stud to remove them however they refuse to do any that are recessed in the head so I am going to rent a 110 volt stick welder tomorrow and see if I can remove it myself. Short of that I am pulling a head. I will update as I get it done but this alone makes me want to sell the truck, Getting at that motor mount to jack the engine up is not going to be fun as I have a 4x4. It is difficult to get at the damn mount even. Not sure wtf the ford engineers were thinking when they did this but it was a dumbass decision for sure to drop the motor that far down into the frame rails.

mrslyfox

Good Lord, They could pull the whole damn engine out and put it back in.....so over 14 hours to replace the exhaust manifolds? I would call around... somebody who knows what they are doing could save you alot of headache and probably money in the long run. It's not the first time a manifold bolt has broke of in the block.... there is someone near you, wherever you are that this would not be a big deal for. Is it inside the block out might it be if you get the manifold of you may have something to grab onto? Take a step back, it's not the end of the world.

Newfiedan

I am not stressing over it and they are broken off inside the head about 1/8" to 3/16" of an inch or so. I am a heavy duty tech so I am used to dealing with things like this it is just a tremendous pain in the butt to have to get at that motor mount to twist the engine. If it were flush I would have welded a washer and a nut to it myself to extract it. I was surprised that my bits did not penetrate the stud a they are pretty good quality bits. I am going to get a friend who is a welder to get them out for me he is a top notch welder and he likes a challenge lol. Just pissed me off as I was pretty sick already before tackling the job and when they broke off that deep in and I could not drill them out I just about lost it. Resting on it and taking a deep breath and I will get the job done, the drivers side will be a breeze as there is tons more room just the passenger side is such a b**ch to do. My buddy has a small arc welder to use and some 8018 rod so I am pretty sure that he can accomplish the job. A lot of places I have talked to around town want an arm and a leg to work on the truck as they know what a pain it is and with labor rates being between 100 and 140/hr here its not cheap.

mrslyfox

Yeah that sends a little steep. I've never broke one of like that so I'm pretty lucky, but I know lots of people have. Certainly not something that would justify getting rid of the truck....but.....I know the feeling LOL. You will get it done and behind you and ask will be good. Learning experience.

Newfiedan

Well I tackled it last night at my buddies place and we got them out. We undid the motor mount on the passenger side Jacked the engine up. Now once I did so we drank a few beer while we sized it up. Determined due to depth that we ought to drill it out and use a left handed drill bit to extract it as they were deeper than I thought. After a few unsuccessful attempts at hand drilling we made a bushing out of an old stud to centre it properly. Worked like a charm for our pilot bit. Once we got into the stud with that we used my left handed bit and it pulled it right out. The top one was the hardest one to get out but the bottom one only took 20 mins to extract. So my advice is make a pilot bushing if you need to do this from a bolt or old stud. And a right angle reversible air drill is a must have for it.

Newfiedan

Finished the driver side manifold today only had 1 broken stud which came out pretty easily with the left handed drill bit. I undid the drivers motor mount to get better access to the studs total time in was 4 hours start to finish. A lot less than the passenger side for sure. So for anyone tackling this here is a list of necessary tools for the job if you ask me.
1) a right angle reversible air drill with a 1/8" drill bit or smaller for a pilot bit. As well as a spring loaded centre punch and a 1/4" left handed drill bit cut off for fitment.
2) a swivel head 3/8 drive ratchet or a 1/4 drive your choice.
3) a bottle jack and some 2x4 short lengths.
4) 2 good jack stands.
5) 13 mm deep sockets 1/4 & 3/8 drive. Plus a 3" extension and a swivel.
6) 18 mm socket and impact. I used my high torque electric impact.
7) an assortment of 13 mm wrenches stubby and long. Also a ratchet wrench with a swivel head helps a lot.
Also add a 3/8 drive 15 mm deep socket I had 2 nuts on my headers that went into the cat pipe.
8) liquid wrench or preferred penetrant. I sprayed my studs for a few days each day prior to attempting the job. For the studs that stayed in the head I double nutted them to remove them.
9) a pry bar or 2 helps but not totally necessary.

bspangler

Thanks for the list!! Congrats on your fixed truck as well! Hope to tackle this soon I'll keep you updated