bspangler

So I believe I have an exhaust leak at he manifolds. I'm getting a new catback system soon and want to get new aftermarket headers to fix the diesel noise. I would love a set of long tubes but all the ones I see are around 1500 and more than I want to spend. I found a pair of 2010 SVT Raptor JBA Shorty Headers for 400. Are these any good? Does anybody run these or any other headers in this price range that they would recommend? Any info on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Z7What

Swapping headers isn't going to fix the issue. The issue is you have broken studs. Without fixing the studs your going to have the same issue. So unless you want headers why not just replace the studs and keep your factory manifolds?

Wayne

Crazy4x4

If your looking for more performance from long tube vs shorty headers on a stock to mildly built engine you will not see any difference. Long tube headers are for HIGH performance applications, so shorty headers are more than enough.

I have the leaky manifold too, I can't find exactly where my leak is though.

bspangler

So another question. To replace a stud you have to remove the header and put a new gasket on right? I've always wanted headers for my truck so I saw this as a two birds with one stone for better sounding exhaust type of opportunity.

bspangler

Ok sounds good thanks! And i tgought it was the cam phasers causing the noise and i finally did the swap and only the deeper tick disapeared. Now i just have the clasic exhaust leak tick. That'll be easier on my wallet too. I've always heard that long tubes would have more power and you would be able to feel more torque than shorties. But I don't have any serious mods so they should do fine.

Newfiedan

I have to tackle this job soon as well I got a set of Edelbrock shorty headers for 50 bucks off kijiji (lightly used he rolled the truck with just 6 days on them) I am going to get a complete set of studs when I do it to replace all of them.

bspangler

Do you have any info on how to change out the studs? How difficult is the whole process for stud and header swap?

Newfiedan

I have a stud remover and yes its a pain in the ***. You have to undo the exhaust and both motor mount and Jack the engine up to access all them. Also most guys remove the starter to make removal easier. I have access to a brazing torch which I will be using to heat up the nuts to remove them.

maxpat82

If broken in the head. it's the hardest. (I weld a nut on mine and remove it pretty easy)
other then this one, they all came out easy.

didn'T remove the starter.

just changing the bolt won't resolve the issue normally , since the manifold flange have wrapped. so you need a need manifold.

The driver side is supposed to be a piece of cake compared to the passenger side!

Newfiedan

well I tackled the job on saturday and sad to say that the 2 studs on the front of the passenger side manifold broke off inside the head, I went to grab the welder at work and the boss did not fill the damn gas which royally ticked me off, I put the header on for now as its my daily driver but I am going to take it to the local exhaust shop we use to see if they can do it for me. Took me a while but I got 6 of the 8 studs out complete without breaking. I tried drilling them out to no avail not sure if the metal is a hardened steel of not but not even my good drill bit dented them. Sounds like a bag of crap right now. Depending on the cost I may just get them to do the drivers side while I am at it. Sucks having to pay someone to do things for me lol.