IceFishinFool

Yeah I pulled the relays in aux box with no change. I just looked again and its good in accessory but blows in run with out cranking.
Hvac dead off still blows.

homer

Hmmm, thinking back to your reverse issue... the PAM module does have power at start + run, it's just not triggered until you're in reverse. You did try unplugging it (the module, NOT the sensors - and/or plug by spare tire for reverse sensing system + reverse lights + license plate lights I believe)? Your mirror also ties in, might be worth unplugging that if you have the auto-dimming.

papa tiger

X2. Also trany digital module.

IceFishinFool

Yeah I unplugged to module under the dash with no change. I have inspected every wire at the back of the truck and found nothing. Im thinking it has to be in the engine bay some where.....

papa tiger

U can get circuit tester that stops the blowing fuse an lets u find the short while not replacing 10's of fuses for $10. It may end up in the steering wheel area ? With it plugged into the fuses slot U can start unplugging until it tells U u have disconnected the short. Patience streatcher 4 shure

IceFishinFool

Where can I get one of those. I was looking for a breaker but all i can find is and auto resetting one.

homer

Papa tiger makes a great point and I was thinking that earlier but I couldn't find a fuse-tester that doesn't take a fuse to protect itself (so it knows what ratings). For example, I found one at Princess Auto here in Canada that can test up to 30 amps, but it still takes a fuse for maximum protection and it shouldn't be higher than the circuit rating (in case it is a true overload and you burn something up): http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/E...ster/8284531.p - But as I mention this one still requires a fuse to operate. It's purpose is more to measure the load on a circuit rather than save you fuses. There must be some that don't take fuses and operate similar to a circuit breaker or similar though as papa tiger mentions.


Breaker scares me a little... I think you'll likely get away with it in this case because it sounds like a dead short rather than an overload from a circuit. If they don't kick out immediately you risk burning something (although it sounds quick enough of a blow that this shouldn't occur).

I'm also wondering about the digital trans module as well now...

homer

One thing you might be able to use (instead of blowing fuses) is get a voltmeter (do NOT use Ohms/continuity - DC Voltage only), put the positive on the fuse feed side in the socket, put the negative on the circuit feed side. If you're reading +12V you likely have a dead short (completed circuit) to ground. This might save you from blowing fuses as well while you try and trace what it is... You should read 0V (open circuit). If you put the probes backwards, it'll just read -12V so no big deal.

homer

I believe these work well for quickly finding the short:

IceFishinFool

Good idea with the voltmeter. Ill give that a shot and see what I can find. Thinking it could be in the wire loom that goes from the pcm down the side of the trans dip stick. Looks like the looms open as I can see wire from the underside. Damn dealership f'ed it up when the swapped my motor and did bother to fix it up right. Bunch of slacking half *** techs.