2007 F150 XLT - A/C AC blows hot air - no codes - filled twice - no workie
08-25-2016, 08:30 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2007 F150 XLT - A/C AC blows hot air - no codes - filled twice - no workie
If this is redundant feel free to flame away.
Disclaimer: I have a 2007 Ford F150 that in it's life time has been charged 4 times. I can't say I've ever had to charge refrigerant on any of my vehicles this often and it's never been as cold as my other vehicles. It began it's life in AZ so this was a big deal but never a deal breaker.
Symptom: Vehicle blows hot air at lowest setting, AC compressor clutch never engages, OBDII scanner shows no codes.
Troubleshooting #1: Shop #1 performed purge, leak check, and charged system. System was ice cold for 4 days.
Troubleshooting #2: Shop #2 Shop #1 performed purge, leak check, and charged system. System was ice cold for 2 days.
Troubleshooting #3: Rented OBDII scanner to check for codes related to pressure switches. Tried to find what pins to short out on low side pressure switch to test clutch operation but my plug has 3 wires instead of two so I was skeered, and didn't do it.
I wanted so bad for this to be a pressure switch and an easy fix but I'm worried it's shop and investment time.
Question: Is there anything else I should try before throwing greenbacks at the problem?
Disclaimer: I have a 2007 Ford F150 that in it's life time has been charged 4 times. I can't say I've ever had to charge refrigerant on any of my vehicles this often and it's never been as cold as my other vehicles. It began it's life in AZ so this was a big deal but never a deal breaker.
Symptom: Vehicle blows hot air at lowest setting, AC compressor clutch never engages, OBDII scanner shows no codes.
Troubleshooting #1: Shop #1 performed purge, leak check, and charged system. System was ice cold for 4 days.
Troubleshooting #2: Shop #2 Shop #1 performed purge, leak check, and charged system. System was ice cold for 2 days.
Troubleshooting #3: Rented OBDII scanner to check for codes related to pressure switches. Tried to find what pins to short out on low side pressure switch to test clutch operation but my plug has 3 wires instead of two so I was skeered, and didn't do it.
I wanted so bad for this to be a pressure switch and an easy fix but I'm worried it's shop and investment time.
Question: Is there anything else I should try before throwing greenbacks at the problem?
08-25-2016, 08:43 PM
#2
Just sounds like a leak to me. Charged, works, doesn't work... Charged, works, doesn't work again...
08-25-2016, 09:52 PM
#3
Senior Member
Yea OBD2 scanners don't help much with a/c systems.
Keep in mind the pressure switch does it's job in two ways - keeps the a/c compressor from engaging when pressure is too low and too high. Yes you can overcharge an a/c system, I've seen shops do it.
Have a shop run some dye through the system to find the leak. In my experience, the first thing to go is usually the valves, they start leaking for no apparent reason. The second most common is the green o-rings where the a/c lines bolt up to the compressor, condenser, etc. The valves run about $4 for a pair, and about $3 for a set of o-rings. Like with anything else automotive, the biggest cost is labor.
One thing you can check IF the compressor is engaging is to see if the low pressure line is sweating. It's the line that runs right into the a/c drier on the passenger side firewall. If you let the a/c run and that line starts sweating, then it's a good indicator that the compressor is doing it's job and more than likely not the culprit. Then you can start trouble shooting the other parts of the system.
Keep in mind the pressure switch does it's job in two ways - keeps the a/c compressor from engaging when pressure is too low and too high. Yes you can overcharge an a/c system, I've seen shops do it.
Have a shop run some dye through the system to find the leak. In my experience, the first thing to go is usually the valves, they start leaking for no apparent reason. The second most common is the green o-rings where the a/c lines bolt up to the compressor, condenser, etc. The valves run about $4 for a pair, and about $3 for a set of o-rings. Like with anything else automotive, the biggest cost is labor.
One thing you can check IF the compressor is engaging is to see if the low pressure line is sweating. It's the line that runs right into the a/c drier on the passenger side firewall. If you let the a/c run and that line starts sweating, then it's a good indicator that the compressor is doing it's job and more than likely not the culprit. Then you can start trouble shooting the other parts of the system.
Last edited by Fordtrucktexan; 08-25-2016 at 09:56 PM.
08-26-2016, 05:59 AM
#4
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Get your money back for 2 leak test.. You have a leak in the system.
