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Looking to buy pre-owned 100k+ SCrew: 5.0 or EB?

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Old 02-03-2016, 08:14 AM
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Question Looking to buy pre-owned 100k+ SCrew: 5.0 or EB?

I'm looking at two equivalently equipped 2011 Platinum SCrews: 2WD 5.0 or 4WD EB.

Read up on the EB and it seems there are some issues for pre-2013 EBs, such as cold/rain weather driving (intercooler). Since this will be pre-owned, I'm not sure what manufacture recalls and replacements have been performed nor if what non-safety related recalls it would be eligible for since it's past its original warranties and ownership. A market value of a 2013+ EB is beyond what I am willing to spend at this time.

My concern is the long-term reliability of the pre-2013 EB since I will be keeping this truck for the next 7 years or more, and I'm already starting off at 110k, adding an additional 10k+ annually.

I've owned two twin-turbo cars in the past and both of them required turbo replacements around the 100k mark (the 300ZX turbos died at 79k), so my experience with twin-turbos has been less than stellar.

The Platinum EB is in my favorite color Black and 4WD, while the Platinum 5.0 is Bronze and 2WD. The Bronze 5.0 does have the nice dual Invision DVD headrests, but unfortunately, has the unsightly (to me) extra large towing mirrors (which I would eventually replace with the standard-sized power-folding mirrors because I don't do any towing of significance). If the 5.0 was black and 4WD, I wouldn't hesitate to jump on it, but it's not. However, it's $4,000 cheaper than the EB.

So, are the EBs reliable enough to hit 200k without turbo replacement(s)?
Old 02-03-2016, 12:33 PM
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apparently, drilling the CAC takes care of the "rain weather driving" issues. People who had the shudder issues report good results from that, so there's that.
I'll venture to say that the turbo technology / reliability has evolved a bit between a 300ZX (end of production 2003) and the EB. No widespread reports of turbo failures at this time.

do you need / want 4wd? That should almost be your deciding factor at this time, either engine will serve you well, or crap out on you for no reason the odds are about the same one way or the other!
Old 02-03-2016, 01:05 PM
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I ran into problems on my 2011 EcoBoost at 110k. But it was trans problems, and the same trans is in both trucks, so its a shot in the dark.


Then again the 5.0 does not have turbo charges, and based on reports those tend to need replacing at around 150k. I would go for the 5.0 just based on the turbos, but both are great trucks and both have their own problems.

Good luck,
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Old 02-03-2016, 02:52 PM
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Ford dealer should be able to look and see if any work was performed on the truck and if any recalls or TSB's are out there that it would qualify for. I assume you don't know the previous owner, but it would be nice if you had a way to get in touch with them.

Either one will be good, but longevity is a shot in the dark because you don't know any history or how either were taken care of.

I can tell you this with respect to the turbos though. You don't have to replace them. They can VERY easily be rebuilt and for FAR FAR less than new ones cost. You coming from the 300Z world and I from the Supra world should know about that.

If you can afford to be without your truck for a few days, you can find a local rebuilder or can send them off to be redone. I have a list about 10 long of reputable companies I trust to rebuild turbos in the country. If it is just seals, bearings, etc, it shouldn't got more than 250-350 per turbo. If other issues are there then of course the cost goes up.

If you have any experience working on a 300Z then working on the EB is a cake walk in comparison. Much more room and ease to get around in the engine bay. Both turbos can be removed in less than a day, shipped off, rebuilt in a day, and sent back. Many people on this site don't seem to believe me in the many times I have said it, but you don't have to go to Ford and buy new turbos if one fails!!!!!

I've got a warranty on mine up to 100k miles but I plan on keeping it at least 50k after that. I do not fear anything to go wrong with it, but if it does, replacing/rebuilding turbos is an easy thing to have done.
Old 02-03-2016, 03:53 PM
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Depends on what your comfortable with. 5.0 will be easier to work on with less to go wrong. Just your standard NA V8 (minus all the Ti-VCT 4V fun if your tearing into it).

Ecoboost would be a fine choice as well. Assuming it checks out, it should be fine. If it's ran the past 100k miles without a catch can, there's a good chance your valves might be a little coked up from blow-by. It's not been an issue for anyone that I know of yet, and wouldn't be until it reaches a certain point which is maybe something you'll see close to/north of 200k miles, or it may never happen at all.

Ecoboost is more a truck motor than the 5.0, and imo its always good to have 4WD. You never know what life might throw at you.

Only issue my 102k 5.0 has ever had was dirty fuel filter inlet that took about 2 minutes to fix. When I changed the plugs and coolant at 100k (per the maintenance schedule) both looked fine and almost changed prematurely.

Can't go wrong either way.

EDIT: Also people on this forum are willing to trade for tow mirrors all day long, so you probably won't have any issues getting that taken care of.

Last edited by anotherfordguy; 02-03-2016 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Add Stuff
Old 02-03-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TJPlatinumEB
Ford dealer should be able to look and see if any work was performed on the truck and if any recalls or TSB's are out there that it would qualify for. I assume you don't know the previous owner, but it would be nice if you had a way to get in touch with them.
Both trucks are at non-Ford used car dealers, so no way to get in touch with previous owners nor immediately check with a Ford dealer, though I could probably get the VINs and have them run a history check.


Originally Posted by TJPlatinumEB
I can tell you this with respect to the turbos though. You don't have to replace them. They can VERY easily be rebuilt and for FAR FAR less than new ones cost. You coming from the 300Z world and I from the Supra world should know about that.

If you can afford to be without your truck for a few days, you can find a local rebuilder or can send them off to be redone. I have a list about 10 long of reputable companies I trust to rebuild turbos in the country. If it is just seals, bearings, etc, it shouldn't got more than 250-350 per turbo. If other issues are there then of course the cost goes up.

If you have any experience working on a 300Z then working on the EB is a cake walk in comparison. Much more room and ease to get around in the engine bay. Both turbos can be removed in less than a day, shipped off, rebuilt in a day, and sent back. Many people on this site don't seem to believe me in the many times I have said it, but you don't have to go to Ford and buy new turbos if one fails!!!!!
I've replaced my turbos myself on both the 300ZX (which I still have; and I actually rebuilt the turbos myself with new center cartridges) and my previous BMW 335i, and both were a PITA, though the Z more so because it required dropping the transmission and pulling the motor to do it right. Thus, any turbo issues with an EB would be well within my skill sets to replace myself.

The problem is that I'm currently a full time student several states removed from all my uber expensive tools necessary to perform any automotive repair beyond basic maintenance. Having said that, if a turbo does go bad, the truck should still be drivable, sans any appreciable power. The concern in that scenario is the 2,000 mile trek I would need to get back home where all my tools are at. I wouldn't drive back just to replace the turbos: I would wait until the summer break or after I graduate. The problem with the latter is that I would be towing a typical sized U-haul trailer so I'm concerned with both engine and performance issues to drive those 2,000 miles with seized turbos.

I really only need the turbos not to fail on me in the next 1-1/2 years, by which time I graduate and will move back home.
Old 02-03-2016, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ecopat
apparently, drilling the CAC takes care of the "rain weather driving" issues. People who had the shudder issues report good results from that, so there's that.
I haven't looked into the exact steps to perform this, but hopefully it can be done easily and with basic hand tools. If it requires more than that, I'm afraid I'm not in position to do that here, in very rainy and humid Houston, where such mod would seem to be highly recommended.

Originally Posted by ecopat
do you need / want 4wd? That should almost be your deciding factor at this time, either engine will serve you well, or crap out on you for no reason the odds are about the same one way or the other!
I've definitely needed 4WD in the past. Not so much need presently, but it's always good to have just in case, so yea, my preference is 4WD, especially since I live in a flood-prone location.

And yes, anything can happen to either engine, but I'm trying to get a feel for which "seems" to have more issues the higher the mileage.

Currently, the 5.0 is almost $3-4 cheaper (depending on if if the salesmen are willing to negotiate), but when I add in the fact that I WILL replace the mirrors eventually, the price differential could close by up to a $1k, the current average eBay price for a used pair of power-folding, heated, memory chrome-capped (unlikely to find any Bronze painted caps) mirrors plus new DSM.

Last edited by Augster; 02-03-2016 at 04:23 PM.

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Old 02-03-2016, 04:26 PM
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^ the "drill the CAC" mod requires a power drill and a 1/16" bit. worst case, buy a new one, drill the hole, return the drill
Old 02-03-2016, 05:31 PM
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The turbos are run in coolant and oil, they are designed for a 150k service life. Having said that, you never know when one will fail, just like any other part. Considering it's already @ 100k, you should be able to rule out any manufacture defect that would cause an issue. They aren't that tough to swap out and only require basic hand tools. If you had to buy one, they sell new for $450 online. There are a few eco's out there now with 200k and original turbos. IMHO people make a big deal about the turbos adding a bunch of complication, but in reality you have experience with them and know there isn't a whole lot to them.

The 5.0 is a great motor, I would suggest taking both for a ride and seeing which one suits you best. You may find that the motor isn't even a factor and there may be other things like overall condition or you want the 4x4.
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:55 PM
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I faced this a few weeks ago. Was looking at trucks in the 100K range. Fortunately, my buddy is the sales manager so he let me take two identical trucks, one with EcoBoost and one with Coyote, for extensive testing. The Coyote produced slightly better fuel economy, had noticeably smoother throttle response, and has a heavenly sound under throttle. It's also stone age simple under the hood, whereas the EcoBoost truck looked like a jigsaw puzzle gone wrong. The intercooler is hanging low just waiting to get damaged, the turbos are buried so deep under the hood you can't even see them, and it was just painfully obvious that between 100K and 200K the EcoBoost would cost a lot more money to keep on the road and service.

So I went with the Coyote and don't regret my decision at all.


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