Locking Differential?
10-19-2018, 10:58 PM
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Locking Differential?
I have a 2013 5.0 Platinum SCREW 4X4 with a 3.55 non limited slip rear diff. I am trying to find out if I can lock the rear diff if needed, but I notice that the on dash selector does not pull out in any of the driving modes, 2H, 4A, 4H, or 4L. The manual says to pull the selector out and a light will illuminate showing the rear diff being locked. I've seen videos of similar looking F150 4x4s locking the rear diff, but it seems mine didn't come with this option. So, if I have 4x4, why do I need a locking rear? Doesn't selecting 4H or 4L automatically lock the rear diff, or is the non limited slip rear just putting power to one of the rear tires? Trying to understand what's best if I'm stuck in mud while off road. Why do some 4x4 trucks come with a locking rear option and in my case, my truck doesn't or is it that I just don't know enough about this stuff. I read the manual and it isn't clear to me. Is 4x4 good enough without a locking rear? I just recently bought the truck, so not knowledgeable on off road driving options, can anyone please shed some light. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Frank Barnes; 10-19-2018 at 11:10 PM.
10-19-2018, 11:58 PM
#2
Senior Member
Check the sticker on the door jamb and look for the axle code. L9, is the code for a locking 3.55 rear axle. If you don't have an L in the code, it isn't a locker. Shifting into 4X4 locks the front and rear axles together, but not necessarily both wheels on the same axle. For normal driving on streets you don't want an axle locked. Even off road it is only used as needed for short distances. It can cause a lot of wear on the axle if used improperly. When cornering the outside wheels must travel much faster than the ones on the inside since they travel a much longer distance. With the axle locked the inside wheel will try to turn at the same speed and will either spin on the ground, or you'll break something if traction is too good.
When in 4X4 you are getting power to all 4 wheels even without the axle locked. At least until you turn the wheels, or get in a bind with very poor traction. When that happens you'll only get power to 1 wheel on each axle, the one with the least traction. As long as you maintain momentum through a muddy spot you'll do just as well without the locking rear axle. If you ever get stuck locking the rear axle might give you enough traction to get out. Or get you stuck even worse. I'm not aware of any factory locking front axles. But some guys into extreme off road driving, especially rock climbing add them to lock both front and rear axles.
The power normally goes to the wheel with the least traction. Traction control systems sense wheel spin and apply brakes to that wheel forcing the other wheel to start pulling. If your truck has traction control it will help offset not having a locking diff. It isn't as good in deep mud, but actually much better in snow, ice or light mud or sand. You don't want to lock the axle in snow and ice. It creates some dangerous driving situations. Drivers have been lightly applying the parking brakes when spinning one wheel for years to trick the diff to send power to the other wheel. Traction control uses a computer to do the same thing.
I've been driving 4X4's since 1976 and never had a locking diff until 2007. My current 2007 Tacoma, and 2014 F-150 both have a locking rear diff. I've used it once since 2007 and probably could have been OK without it. It is probably more useful for rock crawlers or SUV's that end up with one wheel in the air during extreme off road maneuvers. But at the same time if given the option I like to have it, just in case. But unless you spend a lot of time in serious off road conditions you'll probably be fine. If you're wanting 4X4 for driving in snow and ice you don't need it.
When in 4X4 you are getting power to all 4 wheels even without the axle locked. At least until you turn the wheels, or get in a bind with very poor traction. When that happens you'll only get power to 1 wheel on each axle, the one with the least traction. As long as you maintain momentum through a muddy spot you'll do just as well without the locking rear axle. If you ever get stuck locking the rear axle might give you enough traction to get out. Or get you stuck even worse. I'm not aware of any factory locking front axles. But some guys into extreme off road driving, especially rock climbing add them to lock both front and rear axles.
The power normally goes to the wheel with the least traction. Traction control systems sense wheel spin and apply brakes to that wheel forcing the other wheel to start pulling. If your truck has traction control it will help offset not having a locking diff. It isn't as good in deep mud, but actually much better in snow, ice or light mud or sand. You don't want to lock the axle in snow and ice. It creates some dangerous driving situations. Drivers have been lightly applying the parking brakes when spinning one wheel for years to trick the diff to send power to the other wheel. Traction control uses a computer to do the same thing.
I've been driving 4X4's since 1976 and never had a locking diff until 2007. My current 2007 Tacoma, and 2014 F-150 both have a locking rear diff. I've used it once since 2007 and probably could have been OK without it. It is probably more useful for rock crawlers or SUV's that end up with one wheel in the air during extreme off road maneuvers. But at the same time if given the option I like to have it, just in case. But unless you spend a lot of time in serious off road conditions you'll probably be fine. If you're wanting 4X4 for driving in snow and ice you don't need it.
10-20-2018, 08:50 AM
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Check the sticker on the door jamb and look for the axle code. L9, is the code for a locking 3.55 rear axle. If you don't have an L in the code, it isn't a locker. Shifting into 4X4 locks the front and rear axles together, but not necessarily both wheels on the same axle. For normal driving on streets you don't want an axle locked. Even off road it is only used as needed for short distances. It can cause a lot of wear on the axle if used improperly. When cornering the outside wheels must travel much faster than the ones on the inside since they travel a much longer distance. With the axle locked the inside wheel will try to turn at the same speed and will either spin on the ground, or you'll break something if traction is too good.
When in 4X4 you are getting power to all 4 wheels even without the axle locked. At least until you turn the wheels, or get in a bind with very poor traction. When that happens you'll only get power to 1 wheel on each axle, the one with the least traction. As long as you maintain momentum through a muddy spot you'll do just as well without the locking rear axle. If you ever get stuck locking the rear axle might give you enough traction to get out. Or get you stuck even worse. I'm not aware of any factory locking front axles. But some guys into extreme off road driving, especially rock climbing add them to lock both front and rear axles.
The power normally goes to the wheel with the least traction. Traction control systems sense wheel spin and apply brakes to that wheel forcing the other wheel to start pulling. If your truck has traction control it will help offset not having a locking diff. It isn't as good in deep mud, but actually much better in snow, ice or light mud or sand. You don't want to lock the axle in snow and ice. It creates some dangerous driving situations. Drivers have been lightly applying the parking brakes when spinning one wheel for years to trick the diff to send power to the other wheel. Traction control uses a computer to do the same thing.
I've been driving 4X4's since 1976 and never had a locking diff until 2007. My current 2007 Tacoma, and 2014 F-150 both have a locking rear diff. I've used it once since 2007 and probably could have been OK without it. It is probably more useful for rock crawlers or SUV's that end up with one wheel in the air during extreme off road maneuvers. But at the same time if given the option I like to have it, just in case. But unless you spend a lot of time in serious off road conditions you'll probably be fine. If you're wanting 4X4 for driving in snow and ice you don't need it.
When in 4X4 you are getting power to all 4 wheels even without the axle locked. At least until you turn the wheels, or get in a bind with very poor traction. When that happens you'll only get power to 1 wheel on each axle, the one with the least traction. As long as you maintain momentum through a muddy spot you'll do just as well without the locking rear axle. If you ever get stuck locking the rear axle might give you enough traction to get out. Or get you stuck even worse. I'm not aware of any factory locking front axles. But some guys into extreme off road driving, especially rock climbing add them to lock both front and rear axles.
The power normally goes to the wheel with the least traction. Traction control systems sense wheel spin and apply brakes to that wheel forcing the other wheel to start pulling. If your truck has traction control it will help offset not having a locking diff. It isn't as good in deep mud, but actually much better in snow, ice or light mud or sand. You don't want to lock the axle in snow and ice. It creates some dangerous driving situations. Drivers have been lightly applying the parking brakes when spinning one wheel for years to trick the diff to send power to the other wheel. Traction control uses a computer to do the same thing.
I've been driving 4X4's since 1976 and never had a locking diff until 2007. My current 2007 Tacoma, and 2014 F-150 both have a locking rear diff. I've used it once since 2007 and probably could have been OK without it. It is probably more useful for rock crawlers or SUV's that end up with one wheel in the air during extreme off road maneuvers. But at the same time if given the option I like to have it, just in case. But unless you spend a lot of time in serious off road conditions you'll probably be fine. If you're wanting 4X4 for driving in snow and ice you don't need it.
10-20-2018, 02:43 PM
#4
FORD lifer
Marshallr gave a pretty good summary, but if you want more traction, putting in a LS (Limited slip or Posi) carrier in your rear differential isn’t hard, it’s just a matter of dollars and cents.
Your truck is either a 9.75” or 8.8” differential, and a mechanical LS will run you about $800 installed.
You won’t get one wheel peels, and you won’t have flashing TC lights with a LS either.
Your truck is either a 9.75” or 8.8” differential, and a mechanical LS will run you about $800 installed.
You won’t get one wheel peels, and you won’t have flashing TC lights with a LS either.
10-20-2018, 02:59 PM
#5
Senior Member
I have a 2013 5.0 Platinum SCREW 4X4 with a 3.55 non limited slip rear diff. I am trying to find out if I can lock the rear diff if needed, but I notice that the on dash selector does not pull out in any of the driving modes, 2H, 4A, 4H, or 4L. The manual says to pull the selector out and a light will illuminate showing the rear diff being locked. I've seen videos of similar looking F150 4x4s locking the rear diff, but it seems mine didn't come with this option
Anyway, I think the OP is wondering why he doesn't get a light indicating that the diff is locked. The followup might be "if the light is not on, is the diff locked?". Probably not. Might be that he's just at too high of a speed to lock the diff. As I understand it the e-lockers won't lock at high speed.
10-20-2018, 07:58 PM
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The first question never really got answered. Although it's not a well-formed question. Not clear what "selector does not pull out" means. It's stuck?
Anyway, I think the OP is wondering why he doesn't get a light indicating that the diff is locked. The followup might be "if the light is not on, is the diff locked?". Probably not. Might be that he's just at too high of a speed to lock the diff. As I understand it the e-lockers won't lock at high speed.
Anyway, I think the OP is wondering why he doesn't get a light indicating that the diff is locked. The followup might be "if the light is not on, is the diff locked?". Probably not. Might be that he's just at too high of a speed to lock the diff. As I understand it the e-lockers won't lock at high speed.
Last edited by Frank Barnes; 10-20-2018 at 08:00 PM.
10-20-2018, 08:44 PM
#7
Senior Member
Cool. I read Marshall's response and just saw that he said to "check your door tag for L9". Never saw what you actually found.
Weird though that the Ford brochure says that the E-Locker is part of the Platinum package. So you'd expect to find on one your rig. But there are so many combinations possible from Ford, who knows what's what in the end.
Glad you got it figured out.
Weird though that the Ford brochure says that the E-Locker is part of the Platinum package. So you'd expect to find on one your rig. But there are so many combinations possible from Ford, who knows what's what in the end.
Glad you got it figured out.